For you Type-R owners who have upgraded to the 23mm JDM ITR rear sway bar does it really make a difference from the 22mm stock rear sway bar. The reason I ask is because I've read on some threads that it does. I have I 2001 gsr and I will shorty be upgrade to the 23mm bar and yeah it will make a world of a difference from the stock 14mm rear bar.

Also is the 23mm rear sway bar stiffer than the 22mm bar?

 

It is stiffer.

 

hope you get a subframe reinforcement kit...

 

Yes. The 23mm is 19% stiffer that the 22mm.

 

 

Yes it does make a difference. It increased oversteer noticably on my ITR(or reduced understeer however you when to see it)

I think you need reinforcment brackets to install the 23mm on a GSR. Make sure you get them or you might rip the subframe.

 

How do conclude that they are "19%" stiffer?

 

I put the Comptech Tie/Sway combo on my GSR, and it was an AWESOME upgrade. It balanced the car very well. I'm not sure if the 23mm would be too much, but the 22 is great!

Along with all the others, make sure you reinforce that subframe!

 

Oh ****!!! Can you guys please go into details on this matter. I've heard a little, not much. Please explain the concept.

BTW I did a search and found only something in the classifieds

What brackets are you talking about? I have the ITR bushing brackts as well as the swaybar bushings, but are you talking about the endlink bushing collars?

[Modified by Dr. RAB01GSR, 10:17 AM 9/26/2002]


[Modified by Dr. RAB01GSR, 10:23 AM 9/26/2002]

 

Ok did a google search on "Acura subframe reinforcement kit" and came upon this site. I've seen this site before and I think for the most part these twins know what they are talking about. But they however put down "BSQ" reinforcement kit. Tell me what you guys think about this page.

http://integra.vtec.net/geeser/swaybar_problems.html

 

I am talking about the same subframe reinforcement kit as the others.

The ITR subframe was reinforced at the swaybar mounting point to be able to take the extra stress of the 22mm sway bar.
If you install the 22 mm sway bar "as is" on the GSR subframe, your run the risk of riping the subframe. There is a reinforcement kit available (sorry I do not remember who makes it) to prevent this from happening.

 

There are two kits commercially available. The 'Beaks' kit and the 'BSQ' kit. I'm sure BSQ has already PM'ed you here. Both kits work in the same manner. I have used neither, but one is required. Since BSQ is a upstanding member here, with alot of very valuable information, if I were to buy one, I'd get his kit!

 

Alright now I know I'm comfortable with everything. Did a search on BSQ kit and everyone who had it hasn't had any problems with it. There was one member with 35 + autoX and he hasn't had a problem.

Now if only the BSQ kit arrives today or tomorrow along with the last bushing bracket I'll be set for the last summer autoX here in Colorado.

 

Larger is better.................hahahah\

The people that I've talked to about this bar said it makes the car feel a little looser, so to dial this out have gone with a smaller front..........or managed with the front.. Reason Honda did this is to prevent and reduce the amount of throttle lift. That is my understanding and to dial out understeer/oversteer characteristics.

 

Comptech also sells the rear bar with reinforced mounting brackets as with Mugen ($$). With the larger rear bar and if you have adj. shocks you will need to "loosen" the front end a bit. I suggest a setting of 2 in the front and 5 at the rear. On my ITR I have the 26mm Mugen rear bar and made a tremendous difference, of course I did the Lowdown suspension at the same time. You will definitely get more oversteer with brake and/or throttle. Also, quick transitions at a high rate of speed could lead to disaster.

 

If you want more understeer you want to make the front larger.

 

Tank Slappers suck!

 

Reid...................

 

I fit that description I have been using the BSQ kit for almost 2 years now. I was using the 22mm bar but I upgraded to the 23mm several months ago. There has never been any problems with the BSQ kit in the what is now over 50+ autocross events. When I removed the kit to install the 23mm bar, the brackets still looked new and had no sign of warping or fatigue.

 

I own a Beaks kit and have for quite some time. I have over 30 auto-x events on it, as well as a few track days and no signs of wear, tear or anything. I have not seen the other kit, but I know the beaks kit is several years old already, tried and true. ( he is from the old school Hybrid Days.

 

There are two primary factors that determine an anti-roll bar's torsional stiffness: the diameter of the bar and the length of the bar's moment arm. Diameter is generally the easiest concept to grasp, as it is somewhat intuitive that a larger diameter bar would have greater torsional rigidity.
Torsional (or twisting) motion of the bar is actually governed by the equation: twist = (2 x torque x length)/(p x diam4 x material modulus.) And since the diameter is in the denominator, as diameter gets larger, the amount of twist gets smaller. Which, in a nutshell, means that torsional rigidity is a function of the diameter to the fourth power. This is why a very small increase in diameter makes a large increase in torsional rigidity.

For example, to compare the rigidity of a 22mm to a 23mm one, simply use the equation 23^4/22^4. Some quick math yields the figure of 1.19. In other words, a 23mm bar is 1.19 times as stiff-or 19 percent stiffer-than a 22mm bar of the same design.


This information can be found at http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/swaybars.html

 

http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/tantiswa.htm

 

You can also achieve understeer by offsetting your camber to be more "negative" in the back VS the front.

 

Good chit

 

Ok so according to that quote and equation (23/14) to the 4th power = 7.28. So does that mean I'll have an increase in stiffness of 728%???


[Modified by Dr. RAB01GSR, 9:40 PM 9/26/2002]