Hey H-T Members,

I've decided to go ahead and start my own build/question thread for my 91 Honda Civic STD ED6 HB build.

It might not be the quickest or most extravagant build.

I purchased (FLOW) my first car fresh out of highschool. I paid a little bit more then I would have cared to, but was in desperate need for a DD to and from work.

It all started with a CL ad from an elderly man who had owned the car for 15+ yrs and 2nd owner (179,000 MI, UNMOLESTED). Upon purchasing the car there was the typical flaws he had forgot to mention. Minor fender bender and a few rust spots here and there etc... But I was more in awe of owning my first car out right and having wheels finally to really care at the time. I sort of went a$$ first on the buy but oh well.

+++ Side it came with new spark plug wires & Obd0 dizzy, along with up to date oil changes, and half a$$ed A/C install!

Things done since Day 1:
Alternator replaced, Rear Drums redone, adjusted, bled, Muffler & Tailpipe, Clutch cable, Valve Gasket kit, Spark Plugs, TB Gasket, New Tires, JDM PW spoon mirrors, Driver Side Signal cover replaced, NEW windshield courtesy of FL Insurance!...few other things that have seemed to escape my thoughts.

For those still reading, I hope you have some idea of where I'm at.

 

Just to assure everyone that this is a tech thread, I have tons of questions.

One being the fact that I changed the TB gasket because it was sucking air, and yet still have a problem with a vacuum leak somewhere. Not a terrible one, but enough to cause rough idling at lights, and a lag in acceleration. Alls vac lines have been checked to the best of my knowledge and not throwing any CELs. Any idea? Also ICAV has been brake cleaned already also. Was thinking maybe the FITV?

 

try sparying brake or carb cleaner around vac lines while can is running, engine will serge if leak detected.

nice come up!

first i would give her a nice coat of wax maybe a clay bar, and either mothers back to black on the moldings and bumpers or paint them with bumper paint. then it will be UBER sexy

 

NOOOOOOOO WTF? suck carb cleaner through the injectors? TROLOL. you could try seafoam.

 

^^ i use propane for that

 

As for spraying the engine bay down, already gone through 2 cans when i did the TB gasket, can't seem to find it. As for wax...shes had her fair share since those pictures were taken. Got to the point you could see your reflection again. Molding is on my list no worries.

As for seafoam, I have heard nothing but terrible news about it. Engine builders in the karting scene and Sprint scene have been writing that its causing more damage then good. My pops was telling me about a product that was much like it from way back. Said it use to cloud the street up.

Charcoal Canister Delete and new Fuel Filter come Sun.

Thanks Again!

 

what are you talking about? i was talking about finding a vacuum leak? what does injecters have to do with what i said?

 

Ok so got a question before I delete the charcoal canister forever...

Read a bunch of threads on how to and what to cap off...know to let the vent hose hang (redish hose) and the other two just cap off to prevent a vacuum leak. Also i can just toss the EVAP out along with the canister.

But my question is what are the two hoses on the bottom of the canister for? just normal vent tubes or do they go some where? Won't have time to get under the car till tomorrow. But would really be appreciated before hand.

Thanks again!

 

UPDATE:
Have yet to see a DIY for a DPFI Charcoal Canister Delete. Decided to go ahead and write one.

So went ahead and got the CC out and replaced fuel filter (YUM BLACK SLUDGE).

Everything was a lot easier then I thought it was going to be. Hardest part was disconnecting the red braided hose that had rotted on to the TB.


This is what everthing looked like before.
RED BOX- Tank Vent Hose
YELLOW BOX- EVAP Hose
BLUE BOX- TB Vac. Hose
WHITE BOX- Vent Hose to Wheel Well (Great place to vent Tank Hose, Just extend it)



Hoses to the Throttle Body, simply took them out and capped off the ends. Make sure to leave Tank Vent Hose alone (Hang it, or extend it to wheel well vent)


Pictures of what everything should look like after you're done. Went ahead and removed the EVAP and bracket. Hogged one of the holes on the MAP sensor to fix into the hole in the fire wall.




After everything I went ahead and changed my fuel filter, needed to be done after 20 years lol.
Vented gas cap just incase, then loosened the 12mm bolt onto of the banjo nut slightly. After pressured released went ahead and took a 17mm socket and air gun to the two other fittings. MADE IT A LOT EASIER!
Changed everything out and USED NEW CRUSH WASHERS. Tryed to tighten down by hand and sprung a leak. So out came the air gun again to save the day, just enough to tighten snug!
(BTW pic is from before the air gun...hence why the banjo looks out of wrack)


And that was my Sunday off!

 

Just some soft-core Honda ****.

Pics from last week (While on break at work, sorry its dark). Gives a decent idea of the spoon mirrors though.
Can't wait to slam her!!

 

So I will be attempting a battery relocation sooner or later. And have read a few threads on how to.

My question is being that the cable is so long, and battery so far from everything. Wouldn't this cause the battery to drain quicker and eventually die faster?

For example: Late Models that run them in the back and have to charge them after every race?

Would a enclosed one last the same as if it was never moved?

 

I've been busy with the new work schedule and moving. Which hasn't been leaving much time to do anything else. But have been doing little things here and there on the project. Recently picked up a few accessories at the local yard this past weekend.

Painted window molding after a good wet sand and ridding of rust pockets. Decided to just stick with flat black walmart brand hah till i can get the whole car done right.









Gotta love the fact that this was the results of a date with the GF to the junkyard, thank god she likes me



Decent bumper with couple little scratches and fill
Complete passenger mirror
Hatch strut(strong enough to hold up on its own)
Trunk light
Middle console
Wagonvan Rear guards
Uncracked intake tube (finally)
Red Rear garnish (silver CIVIC)
Intermediate wiper relay
Interior fuse cover(didn't come with one)

 

did you have to paint the strips at the bottom of the window as well??
mine are starting to crack, and peel from weathering.
also how does the canister delete work out?
does it affect anything?

 

The strips at the bottom that knock the water off? Opted out on painting them, prefer to just see if i can find a new set or decent junk yard set since mine or breaking anyways. CC delete is fine...bit of a fuel smell on hot days but should be fine after I extend the hose to the wheel well vent. Besides the smell everything runs the same as before, if not a slight bit better. No affect to MPG + or - that i can tell either.

 

Looks better without the cc. I will be removing mine, but keeping it for smog time(one of the bad parts of living in California.)

I relocated my battery to the trunk, and have had no issues. It makes a big difference on the engine bay.

Some more pics of the car would be good. If you don't mind me asking how much did you pay for it?

 

Yea according to what I've read it's not too complicated for the Battery Relocation.

From what I can remember its extending 10-12gauge to the back, if I'm not mistaken? Couple other things that I know I'm forgetting atm, works got me beat.

But I've decided to slam my lil' red coffin before relocating anything. I'm use to go-karts, so getting low to the ground would feel a little more comfortable.

Going to try and get some free time this weekend to paint & put my new/used bumper on. Pics will come then if I have time between moving and tending the GF.

Over a stack, but less than two

 

umm like 2-4 gauge wire

 

I used 4 gauge wire, and haven't had issues. I wouldn't go any smaller personally because of the length of the wire....

 

Thanks for the correction, def need to reread some things hah!

 

Ya definitely not 10gauge.

 

Write-ups soon to come...

Front axles (To rid myself of the annoying clicking noises) & Timing Belt (To see if it helps out with a surging idle)

along with replacing air filter and trans fluid.

 

Need a second opinion on why my battery light is coming on while I brake, and as soon as I let off the pedal it goes out, hit it, it comes back. I was thinking maybe a loose wire some where? No CEL, and battery is practically new.

Thanks for any help in advance!

 

nice build and clean ef, this make me want to start a build thread

 

Thank you

Side Note:
JY Date tomorrow with the GF...should be fun!

 

JY Date = Complete DA disc conversion & two B18A1 vavle covers (HINT) ...Minus e-brake cable

Will be doing calipers and bushings, along with turning the rotors before the swap, since I just re-did the rear drums.