At first it was a cheap blackhawk socket then a 12pt socket that I had that rounded off the bolts a bit. I went and replaced my sockets (14mm deep and short 6pt Craftsman) and was thinking that I would have to buy this http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2061000P?mv=rr but I thought what the heck, might as well give the new sockets a shot maybe I'll get lucky and save myself $20.Lucky I was. Broke them both right in a row on the same bolt using a 1/2in breaker bar with 1/2 - 3/8 adapter.

The headbolts go pretty deep, is penetrating oil even useful? What else could I do to help loosen up the headbolts so I don't break anymore sockets?

Here is what I have come up with so far to try next...

-Heat with a torch- the one I have isn't that great and it would only heat the upper part of the headbolt I am afraid and potentially strip the threads in the block which would not be ideal. The temp where I am is about 35 or so... Not super warm.

-Try a 14mm impact socket that has thicker walls. I don't know where I can buy just ONE socket and it will actually be quality and machined so it grips the bolt head better then the cheap ones I have delt with or at least as good as the 2 new craftsman I just broke.

- Order the damaged bolt remover mentioned earlier.

Any suggestions or input would be great! I want to get the head off so I can take it into the machine shop and get the new springs and retainers in!!! This is all on a F22A1 BTW.

Thanks!

 

Head bolts should be that hard to get out to begin with, somthings not right, Possibly cross threaded, if you keep breaking sockets go to a local shop talk to a tech and see if you can borrow a snap on impact socket. usualy if there that tight your just going to end up breaking the bolt. Best best isto get ahold of a 1/2 high psi impact gun.

edit always use 6 point's on 6 point bolts. and 12 points on 12 point bolts.

 

If you rounded the bolt you are probably hosed. As for the head bolts, try using a slighty smaller SAE socket and hammering it on there.

For head bolts I like to have an assistant. Have one of you put downward pressure on the socket to prevent it from popping off, and have the other person turn the breaker bar. They will be difficult to remove on an older engine.

 

First off why would you pull the head to put springs and retainers in anyway. This can easily be done on car. But we are past that now. F22head bolts are supertight most of the time. Many years have been by since the factory installed those. Yes a impact socket is necessary. I would find 1/2' 14mm 6pt impact socket from an auto parts store. A 36 inch breaker bar. Non impact sockets will just not cut it. Even with that combo you will feel like the breaker bar is going to break and then snap it will come loose. Just be really careful. Like chickin said have someone make sure that the socket is not trying to lift off the bolt head. With a cash deposit of the tools value almost any but the most dickheaded of techs would let you borrow any tool.

 

Hmm I'd many. Put the soket on the bolt. Give it some hits with a hammer try to shock it a lil. Then try to give it a oil tighten notion and then loosen... Just keep rocking back and forth but an it titanium 1/2 gun should do the trick

 

JDM Panda-
Thanks for the heads up with the 12pt and 6pt advice. I will stick to that.

chikin pickle-
If you re read the post you will understand that the bolt heads are rounded, but not enough to keep me from breaking 2 new Craftsman sockets. Good idea on having an assistant, I have considered this being an issue. Good insight.

KWayRacing-
I know that the head doesn't NEED to be removed for springs/retainers ect. but with the miles that are on the engine and what I plan on doing to it I want to put in a new head gasket and install ARP head studs.

Mr. Bubble-
I don't have access to an air gun currently.


Thanks for all the help!

-Blaze

 

Use 1/2 drive sockets, I can't believe no one has mentioned this yet. If you can get in there with a hammer have someone hit the side of the socket while you have tension on the bar if it's being really stubborn. If all else fails rent or borrow an electric impact gun.

 

I'm savings for this. This is all I will ever need....

http://www.amazon.com/DeWALT-DW059K-...9127823&sr=8-6

 

Let me try to guess which bolts are stuck. It is the two in the middle top? I had the same problem when I blew my headgasket. I couldn't get those two bolts off.

What I wound up having to do was to take it down to a local shop and this guy essentially drilled off the top of the bolts and then used a pair of vice grips to back off the rest of the bolt. You would want to drill off just enough so that you can get a pair of vice grips on the top. Obviously it's the top of the bolt that's torquing the bolt down. Once you get enough off it'll just back right out.

Make sure he takes care not to damage anything next to the bolt...eg. adjacing valve springs etc etc.

 

that's a good choice, you can drill the head of the bolt off yourself if you have some decent bits, its pretty easy just drill the bolt head till all you have left is the shank of the bolt then you can slide the head up off the bolt shank like there studs then take vise grips and wrench the thing off there. Make sure to get all the peices of leftover metal out etc.

 

Went to a local tire shop and asked to barrow a 14mm impact socket... Did the trick! Dropped the head off today. Now I am just wondering if the head is warped at all because the bottom second from the left was stuck and then the top right....

Thanks!

 

nice man, good luck

 

Looking to pick up some ARP headstuds. Anybody know where to get them on the cheap? I have herd that you can use H22a ARP headstuds. Is this true?

Also, should I lap the valves when I toss in the springs/retainers and new valve seals?

 

Been there done that. Rounded off head bolts before. Luckily on a pick n pull motor I could take back.

As for your head, if you couldn't remove the bolts in order have your head inspected by a machine shop.

Any more than .005" combined out of flat in any direction between the head and block will result in gasket failure. .005" isn't very much. Get it inspected, and inspect your block as well. I successfully warped my engine block once upon a time.

It's also vital to tap out the bolt holes until they are clean and dry.

 

Ya, in my case, even after putting a new head in the head gasket still wouldn't hold. It became clear my block was warped. I didn't even bother measuring I just junked the engine.

 

The machine shop said that it needed to be milled, but he didn't know what the run out was... He said he would have to mill it 10 thousandths??? I don't think he hasn't worked with 4 cylinders that much.

However, he did bring up some interesting news. There was one cylinder that only held 5in of vacuum while the rest held 20 in of vac. My question is, does that mean that the valve seat just needs to be re-cut or do I need a new valve(s) or can I just get new valves and lap them and drop them in? It would be about the same price to do one or the other...

 

I am going in tomorrow morning... Any thoughts on the latest developments?