Motor mounts - time to install or labor cost
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 109
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From: Phoenixville, near Philly,, PA, USA
Hey guys,
While doing my timing belt I noticed my ITR's engine mounts are pretty toasted. I got some new mounts, but I just got the cold from hell, plus we're in the middle of major projects with the S2000 before autocross season starts, so I'm thinking about taking it to a shop to have them installed, depending on how long it would take to do myself compared to how much the shop would charge.
I've never replaced the rear mount or transmission mount, so I don't know how long it takes. I don't even see really how you'd go about doing the rear mount without lifting the engine out (which I don't have an engine hoist). Soooo...here are my questions about replacing motor mounts.
1) If you've had a shop do it, about how much did you pay? Labor only since I already have the mounts.
2) If you did it yourself, how long did it take you? How'd you get the rear one?
Thanks for any input
While doing my timing belt I noticed my ITR's engine mounts are pretty toasted. I got some new mounts, but I just got the cold from hell, plus we're in the middle of major projects with the S2000 before autocross season starts, so I'm thinking about taking it to a shop to have them installed, depending on how long it would take to do myself compared to how much the shop would charge.
I've never replaced the rear mount or transmission mount, so I don't know how long it takes. I don't even see really how you'd go about doing the rear mount without lifting the engine out (which I don't have an engine hoist). Soooo...here are my questions about replacing motor mounts.
1) If you've had a shop do it, about how much did you pay? Labor only since I already have the mounts.
2) If you did it yourself, how long did it take you? How'd you get the rear one?
Thanks for any input
probably about 2 hours from start to finish if you are mechanically inclined and have someone helping.
4-5 hours if you are doing it by yourself taking your time on a weekend.
to get the rear one, you need to remove the rear bracket that bolts to the mount. You don't take the engine out of the car to swap it. Putting a jack under the engine works well enough.
4-5 hours if you are doing it by yourself taking your time on a weekend.
to get the rear one, you need to remove the rear bracket that bolts to the mount. You don't take the engine out of the car to swap it. Putting a jack under the engine works well enough.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Phoenixville, near Philly,, PA, USA
Thanks, that's very helpful.
So you're saying if you leave all the other mounts attached and stick a jack under the oil pan, then take out the bracket holding the rear mount, then unbolt the mount from the subframe, you'll be able to maneuver the mount and bracket out together somehow? Did you reach from the top or the bottom, and did you have to disconnect any heater hoses or take off the intake manifold or anything? Did you tilt the engine with the jack or leave it where it was?
Final question: When you say bracket, you mean #11 in this picture?
So you're saying if you leave all the other mounts attached and stick a jack under the oil pan, then take out the bracket holding the rear mount, then unbolt the mount from the subframe, you'll be able to maneuver the mount and bracket out together somehow? Did you reach from the top or the bottom, and did you have to disconnect any heater hoses or take off the intake manifold or anything? Did you tilt the engine with the jack or leave it where it was?
Final question: When you say bracket, you mean #11 in this picture?
The We-Todd method on the rear mount is very helpful. The front 4 takes about 5 minutes each, the rear about 30-45 min.
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For $198 labor I would be buying a HASPORT mount and doing it myself lol. I need to change out my 62A for 70A race bushings on my HASPORT mounts, as far as I know I don't have to remove the mount but the T bracket will definitely have to be removed. I hate the rear mount, I always have to pry the motor to line up and get a bolt in.
Truth! One thing that i found helpful is once you have it loose, hook a long bunji strap to the top of the bracket. Long enough to go across the top of the intake and valve cover. Hook the other end to a hole in the rad core support (or something safe) and it will hold it out of your way to either replace the whole mount or do inserts.
The stock mouints are only about 1/8" thick there. The rear mount is about 3/4" thick for the front bolt and the transmission mount is about 1/2" thick.
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