car idles at 2500 rpm when it first starts and drops down to 2000 rpm when i start to drive...
it will stay at 2000 rpm for about 30mins when it will start fluctuating from under 1000-2000rpm and keep doing it until i push it..then it goes up to 2000 and stays there....
i cleaned the iacv and cleaned the fitv already....i even replaced the iacv. i also replaced the engine air temp sensor.there is no vacuum leak that i can find..i am lost now...i dont know where to go from here

 

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here is a good troubleshoot!
sounds like u got a vaccum leak issue or related!

Unplug your IACV on the back of the intake manifold while the car is running if the car stays running then you have a vaccum leak inthe manifold.

**if this is the case plug back in the IACV and get some brake kleen and turn the car on and spray all the inlets on the manifold injectors hoses ect when the motor bogs down when u spray that object with brake kleen found your leak!

If not make sure the flathead screw on the throttle body is securly fastened as tight as it will go they come loose easily! LMK IF SOLVED UR PROBLEM

 

i tried carb cleaner on everything and no luck..screwed the throttle body thing and no luck either

 

does your car run with the iacv unplugged?

 

yeah it does....

 

Do you have the helms manual? I'd take out the throttle body and clean it THOROUGHLY. When cleaning the throttle body, be sure to unscrew the idle screw all the way and clean that passage, be sure to clean all the passages. I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and q-tips, dunno what you'll use. But before you do that, to test the FITV, you're suppose to plug the hole while the engine is running with your finger and if the idle steadies, then it's the valve at fault. That's the way to test the FITV. If you have the helms, doing these tests would be much easier because then I wouldn't have to explain what to do.

How was the car running prior to this issue? How long has this issue been going on for? Do you have any check engine lights?

 

no i dont...i clean the throttle body already and very throughly.....ill test the fitv tmw but which hole?
it was running fine before this and my idle started to go up and it stayed at 2000 and after that then this started..about 1-2 months now...no i dont btw the car is turboed

 

This is terrible advice for the sole reason that you mention using brake cleaner.. Why not carburetor cleaner? Brake cleaner when ignited can make phosgene gas which in extremely minute amounts can at worse kill you and at best make you live the rest of your life on an oxygen tank thanks to the damage it will do to your lungs. If brake cleaner is ignited/exposed to UV rays, run the **** away while holding your breath and pray you're ok cause if you inhale phosgene gas, you're totally ****ed!

 

Replace the PCV valve, and the hose it's attached to. As for the FITV, if you're looking at the throttle body while on the car, it's the lower left hole.


Also replace all the vacuum hoses as they're probably the original ones which by now are probably cracked or damaged, with the PCV Valve hose being one of them. Your fuel economy will increase and so will the performance when you replace the valve. Also be sure to get the proper PCV valve that works as a one way valve cause I almost bought a defective one at a parts store but cause I tested it, I got another one which was working. Way to test the check valve in the PCV is to blow into the part of the valve that goes into the engine and then suck on it and it should prevent you from breathing through it due to the check valve inside.

If your car was idling at 700rpm and then all of a sudden now idles at 2000, you've got a vacuum leak for certain, somewhere.. Bad gasket? Have you done ANYTHING since the car was running good previous?

 

where is the pcv valve located? and i replaced the headgasket recently with a thicker one but didnt replace the intake manifold gasket

 

pcv is on intake manifold right? should the grommet b replaced?

 

Do you have any check engine lights? Also have you checked and/or adjusted the throttle cable?

 

no cel and yes my friend and i adjusted it and checked it

 

I'd say go ahead and replace the grommet considering the age of the vehicle. My PCV valve was really hard to get to IMO and so unless I was doing major work to the car like removing the manifold or valve head, I just couldn't see myself replacing that grommet.. Maybe I'm just being a brat, I dunno but I guess it didn't seem necessary for my '98 civic with the D16Y7 engine. Yours on the other hand, I'd definitely replace the grommet, the valve and the hoses going from the valve into the manifold. All the rubber stuff in the engine is probably bad. It's possible that you didn't hook up the hoses properly. Do you have spring clips on the hoses so that they're secure?

 

i saw the schematic from mine n its not terrible but worth a shot..i am going to replace it with autozone for now...

i went to turn it on without the iacv plug on the car started but the idle kept fluctuating but with the iacv plug in, it idles at 2000rpm...

 

If the iacv is unplugged and your car runs you have aleak in the intake manifold! so try there first before going and buying new sensors that doesnt make even make sense when your car is running with the iacv unplugged to go and look for other sensors. that means there is still air getting in the manifold to keep the car running

 

Ive done it hundreds of times in the shop never had a breathing problem or anything supersticious people ill tell ya. when you die from it or have a problem lmk cuz i do it once a week if not more at my shop never had a problem with anyone in the shop!

 

try your ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor. they can go bad as well. they are pretty cheap.

 

replaced that a while ago

 

alright..thanks ...since the intake manifold gasket is fairly cheap i think i might get a new since when we changed my head gasket i used the old intake manifold gasket

 

I would never reuse a intake manifold gasket. there not a reusable gasket that shwy they are so cheap when they heat up its like a mold. when you take them off they almost always come apart. Unless you buy the hondata one which i recomend

 

That's great.. Just because you've never had a bad experience, doesn't mean it can't and won't happen! You're also not suppose to use gasoline as a solvent since it's extremely flammable and you're not suppose to test for vacuum leaks with it or carburetor cleaner either yet people still do it. Just because you haven't had a bad experience with it, doesn't mean it can't and won't happen.

 

fluctuating fixed.it was the intake manifold..middle bolt on bottom was loose...but it still idles high after i rev and drive it hard..any ideas? dont hear any vacuum leaks at all

 

You running CROME? Tunes on CROME are notorious for doing this.

 

no fix...its doing it again...yeah its crome