I'm in the market for a set of cheaper strut bars and was wondering if there was a big difference between brands? I'm just your average driver looking for a little tighter handling, so these are the ones I was looking at -->
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-S...item1c1654cd31 ,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DNA-9...item2a0aa839ca , and
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-95...item35afd63d88
Will their weight make a difference and will they all perform the same?

 

The good ones are not cheap. The better ones are the solid bars. Benen, Carbing, PWJDM, Nuespeed. The ones you listed are crap and good for eye candy only. Your best bet is to get a sway bar for the rear and better suspension.

 

I wouldn't bother....unless they're a true stiff strut bar and won't flex under pressure it'll defeat the whole purpose....

on the vehicle that I owned before the Honda I had some nice strut and stress bars and they actually tightened up my steering but outside of that didn't do a whole lot...you're better off investing your money in a good set of coilovers and tires.

I actually have a goofy ractive strut bar on my car now due to the owner before hand it it flexes just by pushing on it with my hand, I'm pretty positive it isn't doing squat for handling or feel.

 

yea all those bars are JUNK. nothing but a show piece.

 

lol Thanks for letting me know, I guess I'll look into just getting one expensive one or something

 

I wouldn't buy one unless I was buying an NRG 3-point or a neuspeed.

The bene tripod is good too.

 

I'm only driving a 92 cx with the factory engine, would it be worth putting the money towards one?

 

Define "worth it"

What have you done to your car first?

If your car is stock I would recommend getting struts/coilovers and swaybars long before I recommended chassis bracing.

Chassis bracing is very low bang/buck modification.

 

Don't bother.

 

If he drives a 92 CX with good coilovers, swaybars, and the factory engine, then a strut bar might be worth it.

 

I've got the exhaust, rims and tires that's about it...

 

Then don't bother.

 

If your looking to stiffen it up a bit look into getting front and rear sway bars. Also, a good set of shocks and springs will help as well.

Also, depending on how many miles are on your car checking the ball joints, upper control arms, and tie rods are worth it.
When these get warn they can create a sloppy feeling car.

 

Strut bars should be the last thing you buy for handling. If you do buy strut bars, get a 3-point upper front. I used to have one and I actually noticed a difference in handling. As such, a 4-point PW:JDM rear will probably be a lot more efficient than a 2-point rear. I've never had one of those though. You'll just lose your trunk space, unless you don't care that a giant bar is zig-zagging in the middle of it lol.

Invest into shocks/springs or coilovers first. Then swar bars. Also, what size wheels/tires do you have and what tires?

 

You forgot to say that most times they don't fit on your car aswell.

 

I wouldn't know about that part. Never used them.

 

eBay fitment is hit or miss. Some people swear by eBay parts, others hate them.

 

Invest I'n sway bars before anything
I think that helped my Cx more then anything
Stock cx comes with no sway bars
I got asr 24mm I'n the rear
And ITR 24mm I'n the front whips corners like nothing
I have a benen c pillar bar? I've never really driven my
Car without it but i advise you to get one
...girls usually find an alternate purpose for it when their
In the back seat of your car with you, or should i say on top...

 

 

Get one! Fix it up one part at a time! its good for the economy!

 

Here you go bud. Buy #17 from the list. It will be around $50-55 shipped, best bang for the buck. And in my opinion it makes a huge difference. I just (yesterday) installed an ITR bar on my hatchback (same as the one above, but prettier - got it for free with my swap) and it made a very noticeable difference.

Good luck,

-Walter

 

You forgot to mention that Civic's have weaker subframes and a subframe reinforcement brace is recommended for the bigger rear sway bars.

I've read some people don't run the brace and haven't had problems, but I would never push my luck like that.

 

Could you please elaborate? I wasn't familiar with this.

Thanks,

-Walter

 

You need one of these.



I can personally vouch of a PWJDM 3-Point. I tried the adjustable strut bars like ones on ebay and they were no different than the GSR, Si, or Type-R strut bars that mount onto the shock tower housing. It is best to get a 1-piece design for strut bars to get the best stiffness. However, they are quite expensive but you get what you paid for.

Also, if you are planning to run a rear sway bar higher than around 18mm, you would need a subframe brace or risk having your OEM subframe being ripped out. That depends on the way you drive though. The weight might make a difference if your a sensitive driver but overall feel driving on the freeway or taking turns will be more solid.

 

You could tear your subframe if you run too big a swaybar, hence the asr subframe brace among many others