ok so i was going to the store and the car drove fine and as soon as i turned the block it just shut off and i dont know what it is and i tryed restaring it and the fuel pump wouldnt click it would just crank any help

if ur wondering the cars a obd1 d15 hatch

 

cels??
main relay
rotor

check these

 

so you don't hear the main relay click and fuel pump prime?
if so, pull the relay and have a close look at the solder joints. if any cracking is apparent, re-solder. then test according to procedure. if it tests good, reinstall and try firing it up.
if fuel pump still does not prime, but clicks are heard, put power and ground to the pump connector and see whether it is operating

 

also before u do all that ^

check ur grounds

 

Do u hear it click or not? I say look at your ignitor and coil. Watch the tach. Tach moves while cracking coil. Of not ignitor. Lemme know

 

Do your checks. See if you have fuel and spark. If its the main relay not clicking on its either the relay itself or the wiring to the relay, including the ignition switch. I just fixed two cars with bad ignition switches. One died while they were driving it (open circuit in the ignition switch) and the other wouldn't ever stop running (short to power in the ignition switch). The second one was very funny to see the guys reaction

 

well i was lookin at it today and i bought a new main relay old 1 didnt work checked all grounds and plugs i tryed another ecu because mine smelled burn all it did was take off the light and the cel dont turn on now the fuel pump does not prime and the car is not getting any spark and it has no codes

 

Dead battery? lol, I dunno...

 

nope!

 

how do you know the fuel pump is not working? Have you visually seen it not pump fuel? Pull the fuel line off from the filter on the firewall and try to crank the car. Just turning the key on does not pump fuel. It only sends about 3v to the pump, which is not enough to pump fuel through the lines. Crank the car over while someone watches the fuel line. If you can, rent a noid light tester from checker or autozone and see if the injectors are firing. IT IS FREE! Buy an in-line spark tester as well. Have it plugged in while you do all of this.

If you do not do fool-proof tests, you will have a very hard time finding the problem. Part swaping is not going to help you either, and no one is going to give you a magic answer on a whim. Do the tests I described and see what is actually happening. Cars are simple, you just need to follow basic tests to get what you need.

 

Not sure where you get your info from, but Yes it does pump fuel. It primes the system. Try it sometime, turn your key and you can actually hear the pump prime for a couple seconds.


No... it sends 12v straight from the main relay.... and it helps a lot when people don't give you false information.

 

Since you aren't getting the fuel pump, no spark, and the ECU is has a solid light it seems to point to the main relay.
Main relay power all those things, but you just replaced it not too long ago, right?

So, trouble shoot the ignition wire that hooks to the main relay.
My bets are on your ignition switch being at fault.

Maybe even try turning your key differently - it might make contact if you don't turn the key as far as you normally would.

 

you do not get a solid 12v to the fuel pump with the key just being on unless the engine is running. you get 12v for a few seconds while it primes, yes, but then it either stops sending voltage or it drops very low. Just because you cant always hear your fuel pump priming does not mean that is isn't priming. If you got a constant 12v to the fuel pump with the key just on it would pump fuel like crazy. It does not do that. Unless your fuel pump is hard wired to a switch that you installed yourself, 12v is only sent to the pump for a few seconds.

I dont give false information. Just because you misunderstood what I was getting at doesn't make it incorrect.

 

While it primes it should give 12v either way though and that's what he should be checking for.

 

I have the same issue.....any fix?

 

ok. cel is not coming on when pump should be priming, correct?
sounds like ckp sensor. the pcm receives signal from the ckp to stop priming when it sees that no change in ckp has been made. since you say it's not getting spark, nor priming, i'd assume that there is a problem in the ckp circuit. try checking for power at the ckp pin of the distributor. if there is power, try a known working distributor. if you can borrow one

 

may sound silly, but did you check the pcm fuse?

 

Theres a small bolt that holds the rotor on inside the distributor. I've had it come loose and fall out two times in the past. It will result in what you said, car dies while driving, primes, cranks but no spark. Just take the cap off carefully and slowly so the tiny bolt doesn't fall to the ground, and then put it back on. Hope this helps, if not good luck!

 

It's hard to understand something that doesn't make grammatical or technical sense???

Your fuel pump should prime, and you should hear it for about two or three seconds.

 

but from what i gathered, he says it's not priming. and cel isn't coming on when key is turned to II

 

i replaced the ecu the main relay ignition switch still the fuel pump aint priming

 

what else can it be i checked to see if the ecu had power and it has power to one of the connectors and the main relay has power to the lil number 2 wire on it how do i check the fuel pump

 

thanks everybody for the input and help so far

 

if you wanna check the pump, just put power and ground to the connector and jump it.
although, you say you aren't getting spark, so that wouldn't be a problem with the pump.
can you borrow a known working distributor?
if there is a problem with the ckp sensor circuit, it may not allow the pump to prime, and would cause a no spark at the same time

 

so its not the fuel pump at all? and it might be fixed with another distributor? might be the cause to the problem for no spark or fuel pump priming thanks ill check that out see if anybody has one around