I was driving back home and my clutch decided to stop working on me. I was driving the car kind of hard at the time, and earlier that day. It's as if the clutch is pressed in all the time. I can get into other gears, but there is no power going to the ground. Then I noticed a clattering noise coming from the car, and the smell of a burning clutch. According to the person I bought the car from, the clutch was replaced in may.


Yall's thoughts?

 

What was the clutch replaced with in May? Warranty?

 

So you are experiencing when changing gears the rpms going up but the car not moving right

I would find out what kind of clutch was put in and if they have a receipt! I hope it wasn't a shady job for your sake...

 

He didn't have the receipts for the clutch replacement, nor do I know who did the work, or what kind of clutch it is.

Like I said before, its basically as if the clutch is pressed in the whole time. There is no power going anywhere, and I can move it into any gear. The clattering noise seems to get louder/faster as the rpm's go up. I looked on yahoo answers and they are saying that it sounds like a bad slave cylinder or master cylinder.

EDIT: So yes Dave, rpm's are going up but the car won't go anywhere.

 

similar thing happened to me..
on a ebay clutch...
had the symptoms of slave cylinder being messed up but it turned out to be the clutch

 

sounds like the clutch not grabbing to me, either cheap clutch was used or the previous owner didnt replace it

 

Well the it goes into every gear smoothly, so it seems as if the clutch is grabbed and won't let go.

 

Does the clutch pedal have tension on it or does it just drop to the floor?

 

What you have is a finished clutch! The clutch isn't grabbing at all... just cause it goes into gears perfectly fine has nothing to do with the clutch grabbing!

The clutch needs to disengage when going from gear to gear so it can't grab... it grabs when you stay in gear and release the clutch... that is where your problem is that once you release the clutch it ain't grabbing cause it's completely finished! Either cause it was a cheap clutch, was a used one or because of your driving! As you mentioned you are hard on the car so you have to expect that clutch to wear out fairly quickly...

Upgrade your clutch to an exedy stage1 and a type-s flywheel you will enjoy it!

 

I see, so your positive that its the clutch? Becuase I had a clutch go out on me once and it would slip and it took a matter of days for it to get really bad. This one just happened all of a sudden. Would that be the only thing i need to replace? The clutch and the flywheel?

 

Most likely, replacing clutch would solve the problem. I had similar thing happen.

 

The tension did change, as if it's lighter. However it doesn't just drop. Its as if there was a spring behind it, that spring is the only thing causing resistance. It used to be more firm.

 

That tension is caused by the throw out bearing. I bet your clutch is fine (assuming it's semi-new) but the throw out bearing is bad which is preventing the disc from grabbing the flywheel. You'll still have to drop the tranny to replace it though

 

Honestly if the throw out bearing is finished, I would just swap for a 6spd and get a better clutch and have the Type-S flywheel resurfaced and call it a day... obviously have all the gears and synchros inspected.

 

Exactly what had happend to mine + bad 3rd gear synchro.

 

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...CLUTCH+RELEASE

That little clip... part #4... I suspect that is the problem.

 

Oh god..... I hope this doesn't cost too much...

Whats the cheapest way to go about fixing it?

 

Do it yourself

 

lol, i'm not very handy. I have a mechanic who works for honda who will be doing the work for me. However, I just need to know what to buy. I'm not gonna do any upgrades to it since i'm going to sell it after i fix it.

 

I'm not sure what your budget is, but honestly, even if you fix it, especially paying someone to do the job, you probably won't make money when you sell'em. I'd just sell it as is, and search for ones in good condition. That way, if your friend helps you drop your old tranny out, just ask him to install the new one. FYI, I sold my tranny (less clutch & flywheel) for $200 ish. Almost identical problem as yours. Also, if you're patient or lucky, you should be able to fine good tranny between 500 to 1000; depending on what type of tranny it is (a3/a2/etc.) Stay away from z3 tranny, because you'll need more than just tranny to make it work.

 

heres a question....have you watched the slave cyclinder move part #2 yet?

before you do anything, i would pull the intake so you can see the slave cyclinder then have a friend push up and down on the clutch peddle and see if it moves the #2 part. You could have a blown or jammed clutch master cyclinder or slave cyclinder...If you have a ep3( to lazy to read through the whole thread again) then there is a good chance your clutch master cyclinder is blown.....remember, blown does not have to mean fluid being lost, it can mean the ring seals inside the hydrolic cyclinde have failed and they are nolonger "pushing fluid".

Had a buddy a couple years pick up a miata with a "bad" clutch for $500. he had it flatbeaded home and we did this test, the slave cyclinder was blown...$34 bucks later he had a running miata with a strong clutch....

good luck

 

Yeah.... I tried it, got as far as removing the intake... I wouldn't get it out lol. I tihnk im just going to end up taking it to a shop.

 

when was the last time you checked you fluid reservoir. my sister has an accord with hydro clutch and hers did the same thing. popped the top and found the clutch res to be empty. honda tech mechanic told me that they just do that over time and to just fill it back up.

as for your clutch, it sounds like perhaps your clutch plates are toast. or perhaps your clutch springs are not torqued down to spec.

im speaking from motorcycle experiance. but reguardless, a hydrolic clutch works the same in both vehicles. you could have a torn plunger in the master or slave. your piston could've traveled too far and lost system pressure causing it to not return from the natural vacuum in the system. most hydrolic clutch systems have a plate or a stopped of some kind right where your slave cylinder is at and its there to keep your piston from traveling too far. if that is broken you piston will not stop where it is supposed to and it will do funny things, one is what you are describing. another thing the slave piston can do it to stay out and not allow a leak, but it will continue to build pressure for the clutch pedal. if that happens DO NOT CONTINUE TO PRESS PEDAL. it will build up pressure until you rupture the system. also check your clutch pedal linkage to make sure nothing is unhooked. hard driving can sometimes loosen bolt and make them come completely off. i have seen cam gear plate stoppers fall off the spool as soon as the cover comes off and they are supposed to be torqued at like 58 ft pounds and thread locker.

check fluid level first then if you got fluid try to bleed the lines and make sure no air bubbles. after that you gotta start taking things apart and start learning. or pay someone else to.


also if you are getting rpms in gear but not forward push then you definately have a internal problem most likely a shift fork as was said previously. but if the gear are anything like my bikes gear then they have small tabs that the shift fork uses to push the gears in place. if those tabs brake the fork will push the gear but he tab wont lock the gear plates together for that particular gear. like 1st gear isnt 1 gear, its a setup of 3 or 4 gears turning together. when you shift it disengages 1 or 2 of those gears and engages 2 or 3 other gears. hope this helps a little.