or should i just go with a b18 and where the hell would i find one without waiting till oj gets locked up?

josh

 

Here i have something with some good info... http://www.a-t-s-usa.com/media-1.shtml

 

 

i dont get it.

that short block can accomdate lets say, a type r head?

i;d be interested in finding out how much the block costs and how much heavier it is.

 

Ive been told that the B20 block is 300+ lbs heavier than the ITR block. Therefore it negates the added torque you get. I have been told that you are better off getting a GSR B18 block, punch and stroke to a 2L as to take advantage of the added torque, but without the weight

Once again, Im not sure how correct this is, but i makes sense if the base info is true, IE the B20 being heavier.

 

The B20 block is almost identical to the B18 blocks. Therefore, there is not alot of wieght difference. I beleive the .2 litre increase is achveived by bigger bore. You can mate any B series VTEC head onto the block. I have seen a few ITRs that has this swap done and all the owners have nothing but praise about it. It's so tempting to do a swap like that......time to trade in my GSR motor.

 

Damn! 300+ lbs heavier??? I don't think the difference in weight is that much being both blocks similar.... maybe between 30 to 50 lbs in difference is a lil more acceptable. IMO.

 

the block weighs barely more than an itr block. i have had both and have the b20b block now. its perfect for a type r head or even a del sol head. 300lbs heavier is a complete myth. j's racing is right on. built b20b with vtec head and i have 221whp and 151ft lbs. lot of other mods too, too many to list, just look at it this way, the weight is insignificant and if you are worried about high revs get a z10 block girdle like it did. rev to 9k consistently and no probs yet. knock on wood.

[Modified by CART fan, 12:10 AM 9/26/2002]


[Modified by CART fan, 12:11 AM 9/26/2002]

 

I don't have the numbers to back this up, and I don't intend to try and find them. But I can say from riding in a couple of B20VTEC's, the added torque more than makes up for the weight penalty (which is more likely 100lb or less, not 300lb).


Pat, whose Pig was recently rolled by a B20VTEC

[edit] Must add - I've also ridden in a B20nonVTEC hatch that would roll most of the Type R's on here - torque owns! [/edit]


[Modified by Splat, 12:09 AM 9/26/2002]

 

Doesnt care enough and just passes on what he hears with a warning attached that relieves him of all legal matters. If that doesnt work... Read my sig... Im not even real...

 

hehehehehh....thats funny

 

Yo Tom,

You were staring at a my car for how many hours? That was a b20 block with a b16a head.

Who ever said the B20 is 300lb heavier is totally incorrect. The b20 is exactly the same as the B18b with an 84mm bore. The B18b is almost exactly the same as the B18c less the oil squirters. If you wanted you could take your rods and crank out of the B18c and drop them (and some bigger pistons) right into a B20 block.


[Modified by Christian, 1:58 AM 9/26/2002]

 

b18c1 block
IMO im not a big fan of b20 or b18b/vtec

 

Christian is absolutely correct. The b20B/Z is merely a bored out B18A/B. The cylinder walls were reinforced with a supposedly some carbon composite if I remember correctly. The cylinder walls are still a topic of great debate. Some say that they are far stronger the stock cylinder walls in a B18A/B due to the special construction. Others say that the walls are simply not up to running high compression at all and one is better of sticking with a B18 or resleeving their old block to 84mm. I don't think anyone can argue with the added torque. However, the lack of oil squirters to cool the pistons, the increased rotational mass of a larger bore with heavier factory pistons and rather weak rod bolt design, on top of the poor r/s ratio would all lead me to not want to slap a vtec head on it and rev it up to the heavens, unless the motor was properly prepared. Even then I would still play it conservative. This is not to say it is a bad motor by any means.... but if I was serious I would simply send my existing block into GE and get it resleeved to 84mm and be done with it. As it is I plan on picking one of these up, throwing a b18b IM on it, throwing some crower turbo cams and a sohc greddy turbo kit and blowing it up...... Should make a fun project! Oh yeah.....this was about ******* weight. They weigh nearly the same amount as any B-Series block as has already been said. Not 300 lbs, nor 100 lbs difference....10-15lbs at best.

Jack

 

I think you're thinking about the 2.2 prelude engine


[Modified by jond, 7:49 AM 9/26/2002]

 

.....talking to tom @ portflow and ted @ golden eagle really makes me dislike the b20 blocks. They can only be classified as "weak."

However, the builder is going to be critical in using a b20... I'm sure some of the more experienced board members can tell you how to keep the rods from shooting out the side...

I'd go with a sleeved block for more peace of mind, but a cheap solution is the b20 block, and run it till it breaks... then sleeve THAT.

 

Sleeve your b18c block, run 86mm pistons, and call it a day.


[Modified by jg, 7:20 AM 9/26/2002]

 

the B20 Vtec Hybrid has proven to be a very powerful setup...but it has to be done right....or else its just a ticking time bomb ready to blow....


now that gets me thinking...if a K24 (new Cr-v) engine ~160 hp w/167 lb/ft of torque~ could be mated with a K20 Type S head....power of a Type S ...and torque of a Cr- v ....hmmm ?

 

brian G at HASPORT is working on this setup as i type....should know in a few weeks if it is possible and what needs to be done to do this....i might be getting a 7g civic just for fun!

 

koo...leave it to those boys at Hasport..they can do anything

 

300+lbs? Pass over some of that crack.

The B20 is exactly identical to that of the the B18B block. The ONLY difference is the bore diameter. 81mm vs 84mm

Same stroke, same head P75. Different intake manifold and exhaust manifold, but who uses those the B20's?

 

i got a b20 from import builders and had 84.5mm pistons and eagle rods in it. mated a type r head, used a z10 block girdle and called it a day. tuned with hondata and 15,000 miles later no problems at all. nothing, no ring damage or anything. its working good for me. btw i had a b18c and b18b block both sleeved and both blocks ended up going to **** in the end on me after a few hard days at the track with some friends. its just what works for you, everyone is different from the other

 

It just needs to be built right. Don`t cut corners when building an engine like this, unless you`d rather just replace the shorty everytime something happens. I know guys who do this. I`ve had my buddies for a month now, which makes 210, and it`s an awesome car to drive. Runs like a champ and never even throws a CEL.

Ryan

 

Got torque?


Andy: Who has nothing for chad....hatch vs. hatch

 

Had torque! and miss all 500ft/lbs of it....sniff sniff

well, i scratched the b20 idea, just too many quick bad responses.

maybe ill drop a ls1 in there, that would be some rowdy *** topend.

anybody want a 98 itr with a broke motor, offers will be considered.