as some of j00 f00z may know, I've recently acquired a set of zeal b6 w/ 10kg (front) and 6kg (rear) springs. Ths is zeal's 'street set up'.

Suprisingly, this set up is no more stiffer riding than stock on the bumpy street of socal (shocks set on #1- softest). Now I haven't had the chance to really push it on the track yet, but judging from the rates they probably won't be ideal for the track.

I was thinking of changing the springs to 8F/10R or even 10F/12R, but a friend has an extra set of 10kg springs. For those that have tried various set ups, what do you think of 10F/10R?

yshi - whose car is a pig! (full interior, AC, PS, roll bar).

*for those that need std rates, 10kg/mm = 559lb/in

 

Just dont lift, f00....

It all depends on your driving, with such high rear spring rate you better make sure you're committed to the turn....but i've allready told you that...



go for it!

 

I have 400f/600r and LOVE it. I think even spring rates would push too much, but what do I know? Maybe you could balance it all out with tire pressure. I say go for it. If you don't like it it's easy enough to swap out.

 

if 10/6 tends towards understeer
8/10 tends towards oversteer...
wouldn't 10/10 be ideal at a track with tight turns

 

Actually, it might work out pretty well.
I'm planning on 12F/14KR , as soon as I find some 14 K springs!

Time to start experimenting and see waht works for y0u!

 

ed...joo is crazy

 

Just hearing that word understeer scares me!

 

Am NOT!
Well .... hehe, I'm just going over to the Dark Side!

 

Ditto. I may even try finding a 14k/16k setup. Either way, I'll definitely want a higher rate for the rear.

Jason-
who likes rotation, and dislikes push

 

Well, I'm starting with the 12KF/10KR springs that come with these Buddy Clubs.
If i don't find those 14K springs soon I'll just swap them front to rear and vise versa.

 

dayum...the roads down there are that nice huh?

 

Remember, you're speaking to the dude the drove on A032R compounds for what, 30k miles or so?

 

like i said... nuts


[Modified by BlueR, 9:15 PM 9/25/2002]

 

Now whats wrong with that

 

lol!
Actually the roads ARE pretty good down here lately.
Even though I didn't get 30K miles out of those o32Rs, I did get two full spring/summer/fall seasons out of them (with some use of my other wheels).

Not to mention to and back from the first ITR EXPO!

Maybe I'll go the speed limit if I make the suspension stiff enough!!


[Modified by Zygspeed, 9:42 PM 9/25/2002]

 

Yoshi what Sway bar do you have in the rear? Stock, JDM ITR, Mugen?

 

a lil ot...but anyone know the srping rates of the mugen lds

 

I believe you're referring to the Low-Downs?

They're only about 100 lbs stiffer than stock in front and in back (something like 350F/330R)... not exact but I don't have the figs. anywhere.

 

yes...the lowdowns

can't get as hardcore as you southern boys with manhole size craters up in here...

 

Isn't it a bit more complicated than just "swapping out" the springs? I was under the impression that Zeal valves their shocks specifically for the spring rates you choose.

For example: The shocks would have different valving if you ordered their "street" setup with the softer spring rates as compared to their "track" setups which come with stiifer spring rates.

If this is true, then would a rebuild be required whenever spring rates are changed?

Alex - who is making some assumtions after reading the SCC article on Tein

 

You just need those 22" bling blings.

 

Mugen Lowdowns are progressive rates; I know the EK9 has the following (cause I axed)

Front: 3.8K-5.5K
Rear: 2.7K-4.0K

I would suspect DC2 rates are almost identical.

 

can my 129lbs of tq even move those things
hehe SUV type R yo!

Kengs: really...progressive...even the fronts?

 

stock bar

if i do put 10's in the rear, will the shock have to revalved for the 10's?

yshi - who appreciated all the suggestion given here and also received thru IMs

 

I'd say find some 12k, but if you have the 10k might as well try them out
No need for revalving