I just received my arp flywheel bolt and purchased them from summit along with some earls fittings. When I clicked the check application button it told me they are for my d16z6. Well there is a sticker saying for "honda non-vtech(yes spelled incorrectly) 1.6/1.8 flywheel bolts" and the part# is 208-2801. Did I get the wrong ones sent?

Also what is the trq spec for them? I've searched but only found the oem spec.

Thanks

 

Torque them to the OEM Spec if not specified, and yes the are the correct bolts.

 

my b18c flywheel came with torque specs that where higher than the factory specs so i torqued them to that but if not specified id torque to stock specs

 

You didn't get a small sheet of paper in the package with installation instructions?

 

It may have inside the sealed package. I haven't opened that part yet

 

I think maybe you should open the package.

 

ARP has their own tq. specs for all of their bolts. Use the ARP specs. It should have came with a special lubricant for the threads as well. Use it also.

 

well it just came as 6 bolts on a piece of cardboard with plastic shirnk around it.

EDIT: just went and grabbed the package, there is a white slip under the bolts of paper with everything needed :shakeshead: haha. thanks guys.

2ND EDIT: just incase someone searches bc they dont have the sheet with thier bolts for some reason, the paper says trq to 85 ft lbs when using arp moly lube. and trq them to 105ft lbs if using 30wt motor oil.

 

Be careful with those. I bought some for my GSR, torqued them down to spec and used loctite, and when I pulled the flywheel off after 1500 miles 5 of the 8 were finger tight. 4 of my friends have had the same problem and said that they actually bottom out in the crank before they actually stretch to torque. One of them is actually emailing ARP back and forth about this because when the bolts backed out they destroyed my crank and ACT flywheel. You may want to mic the OEM bolts and the ARP's to make sure they are equal length. The friend of mine that has been emailing them also has a set for his GSR and when he installed the GSR flywheel and torqued the bolts he could slightly wriggle the flywheel. I really like their products and actually have almost every bolt/stud in my enigne from them. Maybe there is a bad batch floating around, idk. Hopefully they fix the issue.

 

wow thanks for the info. when i pull my trans to swap these bolts i will definantly be doing some measurements.

i have arp rod bolts, arp head studs too and hoping that what u said about a bad batch may have gotten out.

 

You might want to doublecheck. I bought the same bolts and they were a tad longer than the stock ones. It made a chatter noise against the block so I had to reinstall the old stocks. Yeah..that was a PITA to mess with the tranny twice in one weekend.

 

i could imagine lol. ill will be measuring the thread section of the bolt to make sure they are the same size.

side question: why does arp want me to put either arp moly lube or motor oil on the threads of bolts? and why does the different fluids change the trrq spec? more of a curiousit question. my buddy thinks that putting any oil on the threads would make them spin back out. and that locktite would be a better choice. figured id ask.

 

Lubricants reduce friction between the threads and let you create a higher clamping force for the same torque. Assuming you torque ARP's hardware properly, Loctite is not needed (nor recommended).

 

that makes perfect sense, thanks for the tid-bit. once i get measurements ill let you guys know if there is a difference

 

yup huge difference. i pulled the one bolt off and set it next to the arp (should have snapped a pics). probably a 1/4" difference. so i put two of the flywheel bolts in. had them snug and the flywheel wobbled all around. i put the oem ones back in. i called and left a message.

 

PM sent.

 

wow that is not good at all. what does arp say about this?

 

Here are some pictures from the bolts backing out. Two of the pictures are of the flywheel and the other two are of the crank. As you can see the mating surfaces are destroyed. ARP makes a great product and almost every bolt in my block is from them, but I just dont understand how this is still an on going issue.

 

Holy ****. that sucks a lot man.

i called and left a message on saturday. waiting for a call back today. if i dont recieve one ill call tomorrow when i have time. i just want my money back or bolts that fit. in 4cyl's case id want a new engine or atleast crank/flyhweel/clutch.

 

I sent them an email this morning. Hopefully I hear back from them. Im not wanting anything big seeing as these are "performance" parts, but I would like them to replace the flywheel. I have already replaced the crank myself.

 

thats a good point about them being performace parts where they usually dont have much of a warranty.

 

I just feel like a flywheel would be fair. Its only 185 bucks. Ive got twice that much in head studs for both my cars lol. Not to mention oil pan bolts, pressure plate bolts etc..

 

Just got off the phone. She said that in some of the honda applications it needs a washer (same ones that the headstuds use I think). She said the part number was 200-8710(if I remember correctly). Would be awesome if they said that in the instructions.

 

Is there going to be enough room for a washer?

 

I believe so. I asked if the head of the bolt will get in the way of the clutch disk as at. She said it shouldn't.