So I installed my coilovers and front camber kits today, when I went to install my rear camber kit, the outer bolt broke. To clarify, there are 3 bolts, 2 on the chassis, and one by the rear brake. This is the one by the brake. The head broke right off of the bolt, can anyone help with this?

 

Try a easy out.

Or, break that welded nut, and pound the bolt out.

Replace with a new bolt, and nut. (Welded, if you wish.)

 

if it broke off where it connects to the rear trailing arm. if the head is rounded off go to the nearest autozone and buy an irwin bolt out set works like a charm on rounded off heads. but if the head is broken off just cut the bolt out and use a back out drill bit for the part that is threaded

 

x2

 

forizzle..x3

 

I have a similar problem and i need help... one of the two bolts that connect to the frame was stock so i tried everything. it came loose but the thread inside the frame where the bolt screws in came off. now all i have is a whole on the frame... any advice how to fix it or suggestions.

Thank you in advance!!!

 

I ended up having the same problem. Take the good bolt to a hardware store and get a matching nut. Have the nut welded flush, cost me $40 plus like a dollar for the nut.

 

they also make a thing called rivit nuts. it's an inserts that when u tighten the bolt down it mushrooms and locks the threaded insert in. like these http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet47.htm

 

Could have saved yourself the broken bolt, the trouble, and the money by not using either camber kit. There are lots of good reasons to avoid camber kits.

 

This

 

this is probably a stupid question but, weld it where and how. flush inside or outside the frame? because the nut that hold the bolt was inside the frame

 

Inside the frame and most muffler shops or good mechanic shops can do something like this for pretty cheap.

 

As for not needing camber kits maybe you want to educate yourself and read this.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/no-you-do-not-need-camber-kits-2614449/
And if you're saying sagging bushings are the cause then maybe you need to change out the bushings, according to your logic.

 

I've been riding around on 2* camber since last December, 18,000 miles and my tires look brand new. 205/45/16 Yokohama S. Drives, 300 treadwear. Rotated them once.

In high school my car was dumped, 3.5* front and 3* rear camber. Put 45,000 miles on the car and never had a problem with tire wear.

Toe eats tires, not camber. At least not until you're pushing 4*+ camber. Proper rotations will alleviate any minimal camber wear.

 

some information you came back with was true.
Tire rotation will help the tires last longer. however the inside camber will wear the inside of the tire faster and will be highly noticeable at end of tire life.
All a camber kit does is gives you the ability to adjust to a 0 degree camber which is better than 2 or 4 because the entire flat surface of the tire is on the ground giving better traction control

 

Being able to adjust the camber is cool, I guess. If you don't like the way negative camber looks, or want to increase it for racing purposes.

I have been running -2* to almost -4, and I get great tire wear. I have been runing -2* all around with PERFECT tire wear. No inner wear noithing. That was verifed by myslef, as well as firestone at my last alignment.

It's true, you may see some wear towards the end of the tires life, but, if it's at the end of the tires life, who cares? Also, I doubt it will be highly noticeable, unless your running quite a bit of negative camber. Like -4*+ I have already proved you can get great tire wear running about -3.5* all around.

Having 0 camber is NOT that great of thing!!!!

I have a flat contact patch runing -2*. Unless you running a lot of camber you shouldn't have any contact patch issues. At -4.5* my friend's coupe on 45's would bearly pull the outside edge off the ground.

Sure, you'll give up a little stright line traction, but, it's worth it. Running negative camber will actually HELP you in the corners.

 

Not in my experience, nor the experience of several other prominent members on the forum. 4* of camber would mean you're really low. I'm tucking tire in the front and I've only got 1.8* camber. Most people aren't much lower than that, and therefore you really can't justify a front camber kit because ~2.5* camber is really a sweet spot more than anything. I wish I had more like 2.8-3.2* camber so I could see if that will help improve my times in autocross.

0 camber is bad. Great for drag racing, but entirely impractical for a daily driver. It's really ideal to have 2-3* of camber for lateral traction. Much safer as well. Even factory civics have some camber.

 

Will this work for bolts that thread into the chassis? I broke my lower shock mount bolt on the rear lca last weekend. I have been soaking the bolts in pb blaster for 3 days now. If the upper control arm bolts to chassis break, would the back out drill bit work for those? The techs at my job say most of the time the reason that these break is because they are seized where the bolt goes through the bushing collar. Which is why we lube those when installing this stuff at the shop, but I cannot work on my car here. I do all my work at home in the driveway. Thanks in advance!

 

hey i also have this problem where the bolt tothe upper control arm will not tighten i think the welded nut fell off inside the frame did u guys ever get this fixed im not sure how u can get to that bolt

 

Cut a hole, weld a new nut on , weld the cut peice back on.

 

i guess no one wants to try a rivet nut and avoid any cutting or welding they are relatively cheap and easy to install urself. http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet47.htm

 

I wouldn't trust that on anything suspension related.

 

a camber arm does not get much force and they make them in different materials. the bushing takes most the shock.

 

Even then. Maybe I am just parinoid, but theres no way in hell your putting that stuff any where near a suspension part on my car.

I just couldn't trust it.

 

I would probably try this option and have THAT welded (if possible).