Recently my b18a1 died, i'm planning on buying a b20 from Hmotorsonline because it will bolt right up. Has anyone had a b20 and made close to 200hp by building it with internals? I'm curious to know because Ive been told that b20v can be unreliable if not built correctly, If anyone has built a b20 and made close to 200hp can you give me a list of modifications and if possible overall price with out labor bill? Thanks guys

 

b20 specs < 126Hp 131Trq 8.8 Compression(96-98)
146Hp 133Trq 9.6 Compression (99-00)
$ 575.00 Plus shipping and handling 96-98 Spec
$ 750.00 Plus shipping and handling 99-00 Spec

I know that the pistons are why hp is different so should i order the 96-98 spec since im panning on building it

 

hes talking about a build. not how much a motor is

just boost it. ive built too many all motor builds and didnt get any of the power i could have gotten for all the money i put into the builds i did

boost is clean and you will be happy with the results, do some research and try to find the type of power band and torque curve youd like and just tune it immediately

 

Which motor should i buy then? And You dont think building it up pistons,cams,etc.. Wouldnt add any torque or horsepower? Also boosting a b20 isnt that dangerous..?

 

And its hmotors thats the actual price

 

Yeah get the 96-98 and either way you should sleeve it the stock sleeves are thin

 

You don't need to sleeve a damn thing. The problem is the tune. Bad tune = Boom!

200whp is a walk in the park with a B20. I'll give you an easy cookie cutter list that will get you what you want. There are a ton of combinations that will make easy power with a B20, but here's just one;

RS Machine ITR pistons
Stock rods w/ ARP bolts
OBD2/Vtec Oil Pump
ARP Head studs (good investment)
Aftermarket Valvetrain (Your Choice)
ITR cams or bigger (Skunk2 Stage 2 works well, Rocket, Blox, Jun, etc)
ITR manifold, Performer X (Whatever)
I used a Professional Products 68mm TB
Good header (buy real if you can afford it, if not RMF/Hytech replica works great)
310cc or Higher Injectors.
Last, but not least...DYNO TUNE!!!

Easy combos like that have been proven time and time again to make good power. All the myths you hear about B20s being unreliable come from people who don't know what they're doing. I built mine almost two years ago, High 12s compression and made 240 whp, I daily drive it with absolutely no issues. Driven to Fresno, Indio, Blythe while spinning 4500-5000 rpms the whole time...stills starts right up every morning.

Do it right the first time and you won't have any issues.

 

^^^^thats a waste of money and time... put some rod bolts in... put a small t25 or something. better clutch and flywheel. call it a day. just tune it. if you absolutely wanna change out the pistons dont start it until you are at the tuner. boost isnt necessarily a bad thing... really its more reliable than an all motor b20 as long as the tune is clean.

ps, you dont have to sleeve it

listen... i have a 240whp b20v myself... and it woulda been much better just to boost it from the getgo


EDIT:SORRY ZEUS, I DIDNT REALIZE YOUR PRICES COMMENT WAS ALSO DONE FROM THE OP. I THOUGHT IT WAS SOMEONE ELSE

 

also... if you wanna do an all motor engine... you will not be happy with those long *** ls gears youre gonna use.... which makes better for boost

 

Not everyone is interested in boost ghosthatch. I'm not here to get into a pissing contest man, but there are a lot of different ways to reach his goals. It all depends on what he likes. He can be the judge of whether he wants NA or Boost. I just posted what works.

BTW, I wanna go boost soon Lol, me wanna 500whp. lol

 

Manny i believe you help me alot with most my questions thanks, And There is still no harm in building the motor first ghosthatch, Just means more power down the road is how i see it. But thanks for the info, But also No one answer what specs of motor i should order. @ manny i should do all work before the tune correct? and also after everything is done how long can i wait for a tune cause i think the closet tuner is 6 hours away? And One more thing i have a obd0 i think cause my ls motor was a 91 so is the swap of ecus necessary thanks for all the help ill be waiting for the awnswers

 

Also one more thing what parts would you do first?

 

this thread is a time machine

 

you need an ecu to match youre dizzy

go ahead and waste your money building a motor that responds sooooo much better to boost. i was just trying to help and save you some money. theres no point in building an all motor car if you plan on boosting it down the road neither

i love na cars... but its not worth it to build a na b20 for the response that you could get out of a turbo and how much easier and safer it would be to build it for turbo

for your question... tune immediately... dont drive at all.... tuning will save your engine. trust me

like i said i have a built na b20 and i love it.... but it just woulda been better off to spend the money for boost and not worry about anything like thin cylinder walls etc etc etc

do what you want.... im def giving you the best advice though

 

Well if i were to go boost, What would i have to do to the motor..

 

like i said.... rod bolts, clutch and flywheel. done.

 

Stock B20 sleeves do crack. I had Hondata S300 with a conservative dyno tune with my wideband. Car made good power but when we pulled the head off we noticed a hairline crack starting to form.
Also stay away from Rocket cams!!! I had my M22X exhaust cam snap into 3 pieces while crusing on the freeway. Cost me my entire motor and my build project of 8 years.
If you are gonna resleeve anything, resleeve your B18 because believe itor not, it's cheaper for the machine shop and you can get any size that a B20 could take aswell.

 

I had a stock B20B4 bottom end from a 97 crv with a stock B16B Civic Type-R head that made 170whp on stock exhaust.

Also had an 84.5mm B20, ITR crank/rod, JE 12.5:1 pistons, Full pnp JG B16A head with Rocket Cams (that snapped) Hondata S300
Stock exhaust made 196whp at 8,000rpm's.