Hey HT! I have been driving with stripped wheel stud for 4 years. I just now decided to change it and take some pictures and explain how I did it. Feel free to ask any questions or give any advice. This is just a outline of how it is done. You can do it slight differently.

This is the stud we will replace


Started out by wiring the brake caliper onto the upper controll arm and getting out of my way


I took off the brake caliper off to check my brakes and this is what I observed


while screwing back the caliper bolt, it would not be tight and this is what happened


The 2 nuts, that hold the brake disk, would not unscrew so I used a chizzle and forced them out


Once the disk is off this is how it'll look


So I CAREFULLY hammered on the bolt and got it to go back. It only goes out like 1cm. So I grinned off the front of the bolt and then did the flat(rear) part of the bolt.




Once the bolt out, get the hole so it would be away from the metal shield because it will be in the way when getting the new stud in.


The stud DOES NOT go in just like that so this is what you MUST do.


Once the bolt was in, I aligned it and found the teeth that it would go in. Next is pulling in the stud NOT hitting it in. This is how I did it first time but after doing it, I recommend using one big nut that would go over the stud and another nut that is same thread as the stud. Stard pulling the stud till its flat at the rear.


Now all finished

 

when are you planning on doing that?

 

pretty sure you have to seperate the wheel bearing to get at the studs so replace with a new wheel bearing, putting the old bearing back in is a double fail!

 

I meant if you didn't want to grind down part of the stud.

 

well that would be the professional way but this is how its done without pulling any bearings.

 

oh yea...right. But I did not have the time nor the tools to do that. This will work for me. One stud like that is better that a stripped stud with no wheel nut.

 

I always see people do it this way,but never worked for me. maybe i was doing something wrong,so I took the whole hub off,not that hard either,just have to take the axle out too.just from the hub,good write up

 

brake caliper bolt blends in with the concrete lol

 

WOW

OP your caliper slide pins need to be greased like a ***** f*cker!


Decent write up too BTW

 

lol yea it gave off so much rust that I had to look the other way so I dont inhale it. It should be greased up?
What do you think about my caliper rubber thats ripped in the puctures?

 

Where did you get that replacement stud from?

 

You can get them anywhere that sells auto parts.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...l+stud&submit=

Or get one from a salvage yard.

 

bumpp good write up might try this myself. did you cut off the bolt in the back too?

 

I don't think this is in the FAQ/DIY

 

I tried it this past weekend and it does not work on my 96 EX. You can barely get the broken stud out by cutting it, but the new one will not go in, even with the clip head.

I looked at an assembled DX knuckle that I have, and it definately has more room around the back of the hub plate.

Unfortunately, I think 96-2000 EX owners are out of luck. It was definately worth a try - it sucks to have to buy a new bearing to replace a $2 wheel stud.

 

If you have to pull the hub and replace the bearing, why don't you go all out with it?

 

I have yet another broken stud in my 2000 Civic EX. I tried to do the "quick" repair when I had two broken studs on the left wheel last year and could not get the new studs in (the old one I could get out), so I had to remove the entire hub and get a shop to remove the old wheel bearing and install a new once since the old bearing was damaged during the process.

Just wanted to post this in case anyone is looking on info for this job. I was able to get to the point of removing the hub but had to take the hub to a shop for the bearing removal and installation, which was like $80 IIRC. Other specialty tools can be rented for free.