Im currently building an all motor set up on my itr and have been doing research on this topic and was wondering what you guys have to say about it. ive heard plenty of people say they use them and they had no issues, and the other half says dont do it.

what do you guys think and why


Yay or Nay

 

this is debatable for forced induction let alone all motor. if you're spending a lot of money to go slow aka an all motor build your best hp gains will come increasing displacement followed by compression and cams. a 2.2L stroker with skunk pro cams, jun 3s or rockets with 12:1 compression will cook.

 

im running a c5 bottom end with ctr pistons, fully built port and polished gsr head with full supertech valvetrain and skunk2 pro3 cams, 70mm throttle body and pro series intake manifold, rdx injectors with 255 fuel pump,full tune on s300. I also plan on maybe putting the car on the bottle with a 75 shot.....


with all that said, what would you reccomend?

 

you used the worst possible piston that would fit in that engine and now plan to use nitrous.

seriously, you make a turbo'd 450whp gsr look like a tame endeavor

when you blow the car up please use a better pistons. there have been countless discussions about how shitty ctr pistons are in anything except a b16b

 

Yes I did on my all N.A motor build on my b20z but every one has their own mind set on what's good or not .

 

Mind on saying why it's a bad piston to use? They were in the car when I got it, so it's not something I chose personally. And they are higher compression so wouldn't that be better for the nitrous? And I plan on taking it apart next winter and actually put rods and pistons in it. Something forged and something more solid.

 

search the all motor forum for threads with "ctr pistons" in the title

in short you'll find they are

1. prone to detonation due to the dome shape
2. heavy
3. often make the same or less power than p30s even with more compression all else the equal due to that screwy dome

forged pistons have uses in track cars and turbo cars, and or nitrous. for a street car cast is hard to beat since the bore and ring life are the best. the biggest drawback with forged is that shorter ring and bore life due to the increased piston to wall clearance. if you do go forged mahle has a 4032 piston that's just under 12:1 compression with a gsr head. would be perfect for a really aggressive all motor build since you can run the piston to wall as tight as .0025

 

i myself speak from experience and i HATE block guards!, they have only caused me problems.

 

NO NO NO BLOCKGUARDS!!!!! Anyone i have ever known to use a block guard had problems and ending up setting them way back...but i have heard of success stories as well, but granted...DONT DO IT. All you would need if sleeving is out of the question, is to get arp head studs. They will do way more for you than a blockguard would do.

 

I ran a block guard with ctr pistons in a c1 block with no problems. I have seen several blocks crack between cylinder liners, a block guard may have prevented this from happening.

When you know what to do when tuning you can take full advantage with the ctr pistons for a low cost set up.

 

i put a block guard in my b18c-R and id never use one again it was nothing but a pain and dont look like it will help but hopefully it does the job lol id get the block sleeved or leave it stock

 

like I previously said...i have heard success stories, just like yours...but I have heard WAY more fail stories...block guards do pretty much the same thing as what you stated w/ the cylinder liners...arp headstuds FTW!!!!

 

no block guard it doesnt allow the cyclinders to move and flex wich increses the chances of cracking a wall.

 

I wouldn't run it cause it's really not machined to fit so it kinda moves the sleeves thats just my opinion I also think you have that motor over cammed I think pro3 cams are meant for 13.0 and higher compression

 

just becareful with those clearance with those cam's and those pistons v2p is going to be your enemy