H2b or N/A b18c5?
hey guys im new to this site but i wanted some
opinions on what you guys think on what i should do to my 95 black eg6 si,
since i have the rod knock on my b18c5. should i go ahead and by internals and do a n/a or should i just go ahead a buy a jdm h22a motor and do a h2b swap?
opinions on what you guys think on what i should do to my 95 black eg6 si,
since i have the rod knock on my b18c5. should i go ahead and by internals and do a n/a or should i just go ahead a buy a jdm h22a motor and do a h2b swap?
If you have the option of either go h22 + ITR lsd transmission.
You won't regret the stock performance that would offer that would require thousands of dollars invested into a b18c5 to get.
Good cams and a solid header would make an h2b with an ITR transmission scary on the street. A stock b18c5 will reliably run 14's in a normal street car. The h22 would easily dip you into the low 13's.
It's .4L more displacement, that can't be made up for so easily. The h22 also makes a LOT more power down low that the b18c5 just can't compete with.
B18c5 engines are phenomenal for what they are, but an h22 with an ITR tranny vs a b18c5 is really apples to oranges.
Edit: Since you've already got the ITR transmission mounted in there, the h2b swap will be a lot easier.
You won't regret the stock performance that would offer that would require thousands of dollars invested into a b18c5 to get.
Good cams and a solid header would make an h2b with an ITR transmission scary on the street. A stock b18c5 will reliably run 14's in a normal street car. The h22 would easily dip you into the low 13's.
It's .4L more displacement, that can't be made up for so easily. The h22 also makes a LOT more power down low that the b18c5 just can't compete with.
B18c5 engines are phenomenal for what they are, but an h22 with an ITR tranny vs a b18c5 is really apples to oranges.
Edit: Since you've already got the ITR transmission mounted in there, the h2b swap will be a lot easier.
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Well considering you already have a B18C5. I would just keep that. You can just get a new crank and machine the rods and put it back together. H series is a whole other thing. They are heavier and don't rev as high. And their low end power just makes you spin tires like no tomorrow when you punch it, making you go nowhere.
i dont know where u get low 13's with a h22 swap in a civic unless u have slicks(and a good driver). street tires he would be lucky to see a high 13-low 14 in a civic with this swap. id say keep the b18c5 and turbo it and be ahead in the long run with the cash u would of paid for a h22 swap with the b series transmission adapter. as most will tell u the more tq the h22 puts out ur gonna spin alot out of the hole without slicks and get horrible times. the b18c5 would put out near the same times as the h22 swap maybe a few tenths slower.
Well considering you already have a B18C5. I would just keep that. You can just get a new crank and machine the rods and put it back together. H series is a whole other thing. They are heavier and don't rev as high. And their low end power just makes you spin tires like no tomorrow when you punch it, making you go nowhere.
1) They don't rev as high
2) They make too much power down low
3) wheel spinout = bad times
4) Turbo the b18c5
5) N/a the c5 for less money
Wow. I can't believe what I'm seeing.
I hope you turbo proponents realize that turboing a b18c5 is going to make tremendous torque and power and that dreaded "wheel spin" that the n/a h22 would make.
What's wrong with making power down low? Some people would actually like to be able to pass a GMC Yukon without dropping 2 gears and reving to over 7,000rpm.
What does wheel spin have to do with drag racing?? Wheel spin is a good thing in drag racing in particular because that means to have more power.
n/a the c5 for less or the same money? Sure, but you'll still be missing .4L of displacement and about 30 torque. Something that even $3,000 poured into a b18c5 probably can't make up for.
It's really no competition. For boost or n/a the h22 is just hands down better. It's apples and oranges. Not Granny smith vs. red apples.
Yeah the same goes for any engine. But with .4L more displacement your dollars go a lot further with a bigger engine. It's a simple fact.
An evo kit brand new is about $1300, a QSD kit is about $750 new.
You can get an h22 longblock shipped to your door from hmotorsonline for like ~$1500 shipped.
Shouldn't need to many other crazy parts. You can modify the OEM h22 header to work until you have money for a solid H2b header. You'll need a few misc parts like a certain alternator bracket and some other misc stuff.
For $3,000 you should be set. Often you can find entire h2b setups for 3-4k with the kit and everything.
A used kit and some bargain hunting you could go way under budget and maybe even get a solid h2b header.
With 3k and the ITR tranny already in the car.
An evo kit brand new is about $1300, a QSD kit is about $750 new.
You can get an h22 longblock shipped to your door from hmotorsonline for like ~$1500 shipped.
Shouldn't need to many other crazy parts. You can modify the OEM h22 header to work until you have money for a solid H2b header. You'll need a few misc parts like a certain alternator bracket and some other misc stuff.
For $3,000 you should be set. Often you can find entire h2b setups for 3-4k with the kit and everything.
A used kit and some bargain hunting you could go way under budget and maybe even get a solid h2b header.
An evo kit brand new is about $1300, a QSD kit is about $750 new.
You can get an h22 longblock shipped to your door from hmotorsonline for like ~$1500 shipped.
Shouldn't need to many other crazy parts. You can modify the OEM h22 header to work until you have money for a solid H2b header. You'll need a few misc parts like a certain alternator bracket and some other misc stuff.
For $3,000 you should be set. Often you can find entire h2b setups for 3-4k with the kit and everything.
A used kit and some bargain hunting you could go way under budget and maybe even get a solid h2b header.

can't even believe people would mention b18c5 over h2b w/itr tranny... pass the bong, your all high right now.
I'd keep the c5, replace the internals and build on that with the rest of the money you have.
If you do the math on money spent vs. power gained it seems like a good idea to me to keep the c5.
Just my .02
If you do the math on money spent vs. power gained it seems like a good idea to me to keep the c5.
Just my .02
i dont know where u get low 13's with a h22 swap in a civic unless u have slicks(and a good driver). street tires he would be lucky to see a high 13-low 14 in a civic with this swap. id say keep the b18c5 and turbo it and be ahead in the long run with the cash u would of paid for a h22 swap with the b series transmission adapter. as most will tell u the more tq the h22 puts out ur gonna spin alot out of the hole without slicks and get horrible times. the b18c5 would put out near the same times as the h22 swap maybe a few tenths slower.
and Lol @ people saying spinning on the street = going nowhere, My car burns the **** out of 1st and 2nd but It's still pulling like crazy. I hit 60 in 3rd around 4.5 seconds
H2B or B18C both are good, for $2000 you can buy a 225whp b20 v motor sell yours and break even. peeps the link
http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2888031
http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2888031
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