I can't find them anywhere, are they still avaliable from anyone?

 

Why exactly do you want them? They are actually shorter than the USDM units, thus they add more camber (which you really don't want unless you like understeer).

Otherwise, try some of the JDM online parts places as I'm sure a few are still running around. They were never all that popular though so not a ton were brought over.

 

In all of the research I did about them, they are the exact same length as the USDM counterpart. In fact there were numerous accounts of people matching them up right next to each other and verifying the length to be the same. The only reason I was after them is that I need to replace the rear upper arms (the bushings are torn) so I figured I would "upgrade" to the more rigid type, but if it's the difficult to get I'll just go with poly bushings or something...

 

I'm sure a company like ICB could get them for you.

 

I sent them a quick e-mail so we'll see what happens. Chances are it'll probably cost more than it's worth anyhow.

 

Check with HMO

 

They are the same length as the USDM ones, but i'm not sure if they're any stronger.

They were designed to help clear the JDM 16" ITR wheel. without those, the inner part of the rim will hit that rear upper arm.

i might have a set of those JDM rear upper ones..i'll take a look.

 

Not true. I'm running JDM ITR 16"s without 98 spec arms and rubbing.

 

Do you have a link of where the JDM arm and the USDM arm were measured side-by-side?

 

There weren't any pictures, just numerous people posting that they had measured and confirmed the lengths are the same. All I have to verify is this link that shows them next to each other:

http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate...n&intl=1&tlb=1

 

They look like the same length according to the pic in the link.

 

I assume that's 96 JDM Spec R vs. 98 JDM Spec R. I have no idea if the JDM 96 spec arm is identical to the USDM spec arm.

 

x2

 

Right, but even so that'd saying that the JDM integra was set up from the factory with negative camber? The chassis are same dimensionally between USDM and JDM.

 

JDM ITR has several suspension tweaks ours does not. Such as 16x7" wheels, larger front and rear swaybars, different springrates (in the front), lighter in weight, etc.

It would not surprise me at all if the camber angles were slightly different. Ask yourself why the JDM ITR even had 'firmer' rear UCAs in the first place.

I really don't know the measurements, but in 00-02 when DC2R items were hot in the US, two different resellers told me that the JDM rear UCAs were shorter. Physically I have never compared them so I cannot confirm either way.

 

are you running stock ITR spring and shock though?

i found that it would hit once you raised the car up off the ground (fully extending the suspension).

OP - i tried looking around for my set of '98 rear upper arms but can't seem to find them. if i do find them, you can have them for the price of shipping.

 

I appreciate it sir

 

Stock suspension, for now...

 

why not just buy an adj. camber kit? and btw I think I sold the set I had but I'll look

 

Found a pic on my files.
The one on the left side is for the 96 spec and the right is for the 98 spec.

 

On my UK ITR suspension the camber arms are the same as 96 spec JDM 'teg, I imagine the US suspension will be the same spec as EDM.
I also have a set of JDM UCAs I might measure to see the difference if there is any.

 

I'd appreciate it if you did.

 

Again, don't assume UKDM = JDM = USDM = xDM when it comes to control arms. The measurements need to be made USDM vs JDM 98 Spec R, period.

Honda changed all kinds of misc items between the world wide countries, including such things as suspension bits.

 

So I picked up some OEM arms from Acura, but is there a certain way to install them (by pre-loading the suspension)?

I'm not sure how you'd lower the car and tighten it though because the wheel is in the way at that point. It seems like if I tighten them in mid air that when I lower the car the bushings "twist" to one side.

 

Use a jack