b18b1 head gasket job.. need tips
93 civic with a b18b1.
already posted before how my first attempt at doing the HG job failed
cause of missing head bolts and it being warped. ( i cheaped out and suffered for it)
so im at it again, go the head off today, going to machine shop tomorrow to be resurfaced, i got a couple questions for whom ever has done this job before.
1.the rocker arms ( i took them out of the head )
is there a specified way to reinstall them? and should i do a valve adjustment?
also thinking i may replace valves, what are good oem replacement, full set around 150-250 range?
2. valves, mine are pretty dirty from detonation, how can i get them clean. and should i replace my valve seals. <-- can those cause compression leaks?
3. head bolts. i got some arp's this time around, how should i prep the threads on the block for the new studs.. ive read about chasing the treads.. how do i get the proper size tap?
those are basically it, if you have any extra tips or input.. feel free.
im hoping doing this the right way this time everything goes together better and actually starts up and runs.. previous problem was i wasnt getting enough compression in cyl 4.
already posted before how my first attempt at doing the HG job failed
cause of missing head bolts and it being warped. ( i cheaped out and suffered for it)
so im at it again, go the head off today, going to machine shop tomorrow to be resurfaced, i got a couple questions for whom ever has done this job before.
1.the rocker arms ( i took them out of the head )
is there a specified way to reinstall them? and should i do a valve adjustment?
also thinking i may replace valves, what are good oem replacement, full set around 150-250 range?
2. valves, mine are pretty dirty from detonation, how can i get them clean. and should i replace my valve seals. <-- can those cause compression leaks?
3. head bolts. i got some arp's this time around, how should i prep the threads on the block for the new studs.. ive read about chasing the treads.. how do i get the proper size tap?
those are basically it, if you have any extra tips or input.. feel free.
im hoping doing this the right way this time everything goes together better and actually starts up and runs.. previous problem was i wasnt getting enough compression in cyl 4.
Last edited by dfJDM; Feb 6, 2011 at 01:28 PM.
you dont need to chase the threads as long as they are clean. just put the studs in hand tight then use the allen wrench to snug them. but dont try to torque them to anything. just put them as tight as your first finger will do with an allen wrench.
and replace the stem seals and use a valve lapper for the valves to seat them again.
rocker arms. you will need to do a valve adjustment.
im not sure what the torque specs are for the head studs, but i used arp main studs on my build and i torqued them in a 3 step method.
1st pass - 20 lbs
2nd pass - 50 lbs
3rd pass - 80 lbs.
should be something similar, and make sure you measure the bolt when your done torquing to make sure it stretched appropriatly. and make sure you use enough of the assembly lube on the threads.
and replace the stem seals and use a valve lapper for the valves to seat them again.
rocker arms. you will need to do a valve adjustment.
im not sure what the torque specs are for the head studs, but i used arp main studs on my build and i torqued them in a 3 step method.
1st pass - 20 lbs
2nd pass - 50 lbs
3rd pass - 80 lbs.
should be something similar, and make sure you measure the bolt when your done torquing to make sure it stretched appropriatly. and make sure you use enough of the assembly lube on the threads.
you dont need to chase the threads as long as they are clean. just put the studs in hand tight then use the allen wrench to snug them. but dont try to torque them to anything. just put them as tight as your first finger will do with an allen wrench.
and replace the stem seals and use a valve lapper for the valves to seat them again.
rocker arms. you will need to do a valve adjustment.
im not sure what the torque specs are for the head studs, but i used arp main studs on my build and i torqued them in a 3 step method.
1st pass - 20 lbs
2nd pass - 50 lbs
3rd pass - 80 lbs.
should be something similar, and make sure you measure the bolt when your done torquing to make sure it stretched appropriatly. and make sure you use enough of the assembly lube on the threads.
and replace the stem seals and use a valve lapper for the valves to seat them again.
rocker arms. you will need to do a valve adjustment.
im not sure what the torque specs are for the head studs, but i used arp main studs on my build and i torqued them in a 3 step method.
1st pass - 20 lbs
2nd pass - 50 lbs
3rd pass - 80 lbs.
should be something similar, and make sure you measure the bolt when your done torquing to make sure it stretched appropriatly. and make sure you use enough of the assembly lube on the threads.
will do, im getting arps, used, theyve been torqued twice, i was planning to use 30w nd oil for a lubricant, and torque to 82.. does that sound about right?
and what does a valve lapper do? ive never touched valves, but i figure while the head is off id atleast replace the stem seals since they come with the gasket kit.
this is my first time actually replacing anything on the valve train, so im lost. sorry about all the questions and long posts.
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the best thing when Doing a headgasket if your not a tech or not familiar with all the bolts and stuff in there is to try and do it all in one day, so you can remember where everything goes. Everything in there is there for a reason.
Things to look out for..
-when puttin the head on clean all the mating surfaces on the blockand suck all the coolant down in the cyl.'s out. put the dowle pins on then set the head gasket on the block. (the serial number should be on the pass. side of the engine or distributor side.
-Spin the crank over to get the pistons down in the block so when you are tourqing ur head down you wont bend valves.
-Your going to have to re adjust your valves, if youve never done a valve adj. get some one who knows how to do it. no offence or anything but, its all by feel, so if u dont know what it feels like its hard to attempt to do it.
-Arp studs are nice but unless your doin a high Horse power car they wont benifit u in anyway. Soak the studs in oil before putting them in.
-when puttin the cams back put some assembly lube or some synthetic oil and drip it over ur cams. so when starting up they wont be spun dry.
-as far as valve seals go, they need to be pressed in so thats machine shop work. if your car is smoking then i would change them, if not then let them ride.
Theres way too much to write, to do it by the book. but if u have more specific questions ask away. oh and remember to change your oil when your done, your gonna have a lot of coolant and oil mixed up.
Things to look out for..
-when puttin the head on clean all the mating surfaces on the blockand suck all the coolant down in the cyl.'s out. put the dowle pins on then set the head gasket on the block. (the serial number should be on the pass. side of the engine or distributor side.
-Spin the crank over to get the pistons down in the block so when you are tourqing ur head down you wont bend valves.
-Your going to have to re adjust your valves, if youve never done a valve adj. get some one who knows how to do it. no offence or anything but, its all by feel, so if u dont know what it feels like its hard to attempt to do it.
-Arp studs are nice but unless your doin a high Horse power car they wont benifit u in anyway. Soak the studs in oil before putting them in.
-when puttin the cams back put some assembly lube or some synthetic oil and drip it over ur cams. so when starting up they wont be spun dry.
-as far as valve seals go, they need to be pressed in so thats machine shop work. if your car is smoking then i would change them, if not then let them ride.
Theres way too much to write, to do it by the book. but if u have more specific questions ask away. oh and remember to change your oil when your done, your gonna have a lot of coolant and oil mixed up.
the best thing when Doing a headgasket if your not a tech or not familiar with all the bolts and stuff in there is to try and do it all in one day, so you can remember where everything goes. Everything in there is there for a reason.
Things to look out for..
-when puttin the head on clean all the mating surfaces on the blockand suck all the coolant down in the cyl.'s out. put the dowle pins on then set the head gasket on the block. (the serial number should be on the pass. side of the engine or distributor side.
-Spin the crank over to get the pistons down in the block so when you are tourqing ur head down you wont bend valves.
-Your going to have to re adjust your valves, if youve never done a valve adj. get some one who knows how to do it. no offence or anything but, its all by feel, so if u dont know what it feels like its hard to attempt to do it.
-Arp studs are nice but unless your doin a high Horse power car they wont benifit u in anyway. Soak the studs in oil before putting them in.
-when puttin the cams back put some assembly lube or some synthetic oil and drip it over ur cams. so when starting up they wont be spun dry.
-as far as valve seals go, they need to be pressed in so thats machine shop work. if your car is smoking then i would change them, if not then let them ride.
Theres way too much to write, to do it by the book. but if u have more specific questions ask away. oh and remember to change your oil when your done, your gonna have a lot of coolant and oil mixed up.
Things to look out for..
-when puttin the head on clean all the mating surfaces on the blockand suck all the coolant down in the cyl.'s out. put the dowle pins on then set the head gasket on the block. (the serial number should be on the pass. side of the engine or distributor side.
-Spin the crank over to get the pistons down in the block so when you are tourqing ur head down you wont bend valves.
-Your going to have to re adjust your valves, if youve never done a valve adj. get some one who knows how to do it. no offence or anything but, its all by feel, so if u dont know what it feels like its hard to attempt to do it.
-Arp studs are nice but unless your doin a high Horse power car they wont benifit u in anyway. Soak the studs in oil before putting them in.
-when puttin the cams back put some assembly lube or some synthetic oil and drip it over ur cams. so when starting up they wont be spun dry.
-as far as valve seals go, they need to be pressed in so thats machine shop work. if your car is smoking then i would change them, if not then let them ride.
Theres way too much to write, to do it by the book. but if u have more specific questions ask away. oh and remember to change your oil when your done, your gonna have a lot of coolant and oil mixed up.
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