I just recently rebuilt the top and bottom end (all oem). Checked the timing belt thoroughly using the advice from this site:
"http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=1044"

Checked all the vacuum hoses for any leaks, but the engine still won't hold an idle. When I take my foot off the gas, the engine shuts off. I recently had a p1337 engine code for the crank sensor, but fixed that by placing the sensor in place. Can anyone help me brain storm to find the source of the problem? The distributor is fine and is pulling sparks.

 

Did you check the timing and do a compression test? GL

 

make sure you check all the engine harness connections.
there are connections that will plug in to different sensors.

 

^^^ ditto like the MAP and TPS one are notorious for that ****, and maybe the evap purge one too.. just a thought

 

if you shaved much off the head or block it's possible you're a tooth off and will have to degree the cams and or guess which way is closer with fixed gears if you don't

 

yeah the map and the tps will cause that i had that problem in my gsr civic after a wire tuck it pissed me off for 2 days then i switched them and it was all good!!!

 

There is a slew of problems that it could be, check every connection, make sure that your air/fuel mixture is not too far out, and make sure about your compression, sometimes its the wierd things that make it misfire or idle too rough, like a cracked distributor cap or a weak coil or excessive rotor gas would affect all cylinders not just one.

 

check valve clearance.

 

Another vote for Map and TPS here.

Swap those out and see what results you get. Easy and free test.

 

^^ + for map and tps

 

Can someone post a picture of the MAP and TPS? Thanks for your help so far guys.

 

If you're asking this question, you shouldn't be rebuilding an engine.

The map sensor is on top of the throttle body and the TPS is on the side of the throttle body. Since the plugs are the same, a lot of people plug them into the wrong one. Try swapping plugs.

 

Are the Valves Lashed to the correct spec? When machine shops machine the head,the valves need to be adjusted afterwards. Really they need to be re-adjusted whenever the cams come out.

.006 on the intake
.007 on the exhaust

 

Ironic isn't it? haha. I'm having a buddy of mine build my engine and I'm using this topic to brainstorm ideas. If anything we'll drop it off at Acura to get it diagnosed by a master tech.

More ideas welcomed!

 

And, we tried the MPS and TPS switch and still nothing.=/

 

Did the TPS get bumped? Check all of your plug connections. Is the throttle cable adjusted correctly? Has the idle adjust screw been tampered with?/ adjusted correctly?...Any check engine codes? humm... spark plug gap correct?...I know you will find the issue...

 

Ugh, I need a car soon. So close!

 

have you checked everything we told you? valve lash and cam gears being off are my top guesses.

bad valve job could do it to

 

I said to adjust the valves,I agree,a bad valve job could be the problem.

 

My motor i built over the summer had either slightly bent valves or a bad valve job, only way it started was to push start it and keep 1/8-1/4 throttle, I couldn't add enough Idle air control valve through my software to keep it idling.. Put new valves in the head and did a valve job and everything worked out great! Try a compression test

 

Try a leakdown test should be less than 10%. If results are normal check your T-Belt for accurate timing, also check valve clearances make sure you follow the firing order as well 1-3-4-2. Seen out of asjusted valves cause some serious idle/performance issues B-series liek to have excessively tight exhaust valves. If all else fails check your basics (fuel injector balance test/spark balance test, look for a cylinder that doesnt cause a change in the engine running. Good luck with the diag man hopefully its something easy.

 

timing belt is off a tooth. I made this mistake the first time I built my motor. It _looked_ right, but since the head had been shaved the factory limit the timing marks end up just a little off. When you hold your foot on the throttle, the ecu advances the timing enough for the engine to run. Easy check is to put a timing light on the motor and check the timing. You probably won't even be able to see the timing mark. The other thing I noticed was that if I retarded the timing (rotate dizzy towards radiator) more, I couldn't get the engine to run at all, even with my foot on the throttle. Good luck, but my money is on the timing belt being off.