ok, I'm having a hard time looking for a stock OEM distributor for a good price. The ebay distributors are cheap and I know all the hate that they get.

My question is though:
What's the difference between the stock OEM distributor and the ebay distributor when you're only using them send spark to the plugs like with an M&W? Will the ebay still miss and run like crap? Why is that if you're only using the housing and mechanical parts only and not the electrical parts like coil, ignitor, and etc. ??

 

youd probably be fine, are you also running a t1 trigger kit also? the shitty aftermarket distributors are probably shitty because of the coil and ignitor

 

I've seen eBay distributor were you can not replace the rotor inside because its built into the shaft lol.

 

The aftermarket distributors have poor cam/crank pick-ups in them plain and simple. Do they work, yes. Are the signals clean, no. You cannot really "see" cam or crank signals in the OEM based tuning systems, so you really have no idea what is going on. Crank relates to RPM trace, so a round about way to see if at least the crank signal is dirty is look at the rpm trace during a dyno pull. I had a h22 recently on s300 with a distributor king distributor that was hitting rev limiter, despite my "stop" rpm on my dyno 500 rpms sooner than the rev limiter. Looking at the datalog the rpm trace started getting super choppy above 7k, and was so bad it was prematurely hitting rev limiter. It was repeatable every single time. I pulled the cap off and look at the pick-ups and everything was tight. Swapped out to a OEM high mileage h22 distributor and rpm trace was smooth as glass and no more premature rev limiter. Unfortunately I have seen this several times with aftermarket distributors on d/b/h series engines.

You can get the housing/pick-ups brand new OEM for around $275-290.00 from online honda/acura parts retailers. With the M&W you dont need the ignitor or coil, just a cap/rotor.

 

When I was running AEM EMS, I picked up a Distributor King dist off ebay. The cam/crank signal would consistently miss at 6500-7000rpm. I tried 3 different units. Each broke up at a different RPM. Bought a new OEM dist and everything ran great.

Aftermarket ECUs are not forgiving with shity cam/crank sensor inputs.

 

http://www.full-race.com/catalog/ind...ath=33_148_149

I was thinking about picking up one of those but second guessing now.

 

dont waste your time as jeff said. Ive seen it with Distributors and plugs.

If you need a Good OE dizzy im sure you can find one, but dont waste your time on that.

 

I've seen the aftermarket dizzys breaking up as well, has one last week that wouldn't go past 7k, removed it, shiny sticker was a dead give away.

I have also seen the key way break off into the intake cam. Used a magnet to get the remains out of the head.

We just rebuild what oem ones we have. There's only a few codes that call for the replacement of the housings. Normally its a coil or igniter go bad not as much the housing sensors, so for us the oem housings last a good while.

 

I think he's good now

 

well just to play devils advocate not all chinese dizzys are created equal.

the ones i use are Ultra-8 brand that can be purchased from any NAPA



the one i had on my D16A6 running OBD1 was a D15B7 dizzy. i used that successfully up to 9000rpm in a drag racing application. no brake up problems.

the next one i used on my D16Z6 last year, and that i spun to 9400rpm on a regular basis, 9600rpm near the end of the season when i switched to lower comp pistons.

both are great and work awesome. plus they come with a 1 year/12000 mile warranty so its not a big deal if u do have a problem.

just putting it out there that not everyone has bad luck with them.

oh and my friend darin is using one on his car, we spin his to 9200rpm and no issues. ran a 10.5 @ 137mph last season.



maybe dizzy king gets the QA that Ultra-8 turns away?