Crazy noise under load!
Finally got it figured out as to where the noise exactly is, now I need to figure out what is making the noise! When turning and placing load on the right rear suspension (passenger rear for USDM) I get a clunking noise. At 1st I thought it was the sound of bushings binding. I dont think thats it... I check the RTA, the bearing, the lugnuts, the strut, the spring, basically everything andits all bolted down. When the car is on the ground you can yank the wheel and there is play in something. I cannot figure out what, if you lift the car up and yank there is no play at all. WTF right? The only faulty thing I can think of is the Skunk2 rear camber kit bushings. Maybe they are worn out or sitting in the sleeve crooked? Something is definately wrong. Any ideas of what to check? It sounds like a bad CV joint or something but its in the rear lol
Does the rear wheel bearing act the same as the front when its bad? It doesnt make any noise while driving straight or turning right, only left when theres load on that side. Also there was absolutely no movement up and down or side to side when the tire was off the ground.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,073
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
With the car on jackstands and wheel off, jack up the LCA to load the right rear suspension. See if anything hits anything else. You may also need to remove the shock/spring and disconnect the sway bar to raise the suspension arms even more to see if anything else interferes.
Can't tear it all down, it will need to get aligned again. I'm thinking swap the camber are 1st because that's easy and will only mess with camber, I could swap back and still have my alignment. I know skunk2 had some serious issues with their 1st batch of bushings.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,073
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
If you mess with that camber kit, you'll have to get it aligned anyway. Even if you just take it off and put it back on, due to bushing deflections and various other variables, alignment will not be the same as it was before - guaranteed.
You said there's an issue with your suspension, and sometimes removing stuff like this is what you need to do to get it fixed. And getting it aligned again is just part of the game.
BTW you can remove your shock/spring assembly and disconnect the sway bar with NO impact on alignment. Those parts do not affect suspension geometry. The rear upper arm does affect geometry and will affect alignment to some extent.
You said there's an issue with your suspension, and sometimes removing stuff like this is what you need to do to get it fixed. And getting it aligned again is just part of the game.
BTW you can remove your shock/spring assembly and disconnect the sway bar with NO impact on alignment. Those parts do not affect suspension geometry. The rear upper arm does affect geometry and will affect alignment to some extent.
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I just dont understand why. If its a poly bushing the sleeve or bolt just rotates inside. The adjustment arm is locked into that length. If you put it back on the same forces will be applied. What will be thrown off? Everything or just the camber?
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,073
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
It's just the combination of all movement at all the various suspension joints. While it may not affect alignment all that much by just removing and putting the upper arm back on, just removing the shock/spring and sway bar end link will not affect alignment whatsoever.
However, if you replace your camber adjustable upper arm for the stock one, that WILL throw off alignment, both camber and toe.
It's like the steering tie rods. You can remove them and carefully count exactly how many turns on the threaded portion it took to remove the outer tie rod, and then put news ones (or the old ones) back on that same amount of turns, and I guarantee your front toe will be thrown off.
However, if you replace your camber adjustable upper arm for the stock one, that WILL throw off alignment, both camber and toe.
It's like the steering tie rods. You can remove them and carefully count exactly how many turns on the threaded portion it took to remove the outer tie rod, and then put news ones (or the old ones) back on that same amount of turns, and I guarantee your front toe will be thrown off.
I know if I throw the stock camber arm on there the alignment will be way off but if I drove it like that just to see if the noise was infact the bushings then I could put new bushings in the Skunk2 arm and put it back on to make it not such a drastic difference. If the toe settings are literally bolted down and never move, I dont see how those would change because bushing deflection or w/e for the camber arm cant even be 0.5* difference.
Oh I know, toe is nasty. Originally I had 1.1 degrees toe in the rear! But you seriously think just removing it and putting it back on is going to change my toe that much? Doesnt the toe in build with the camber curve? I literally just got an alignment, thats my only reason for trying to not get another one at $60 a piece. And Firestone here is a bit of a drive but the people working there refuse to do what you want so no lifetime alignment.
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