just got my obd0 pr4 back from my tuner, stock d16y7 tune loaded, and now i have a check engine light and a solid red (no flashing) bulb on the ecu,

I am trying to get this thing to pass emissions heres my setup, i have yet to check base timing (will do that tomorrow gotta dig out my timing light)

88 civic d16y7 stock injectors junkyard map sensor (can put my old one back on) and purge valve and charcoal canister ngk heat range 6 plugs

any ideas vehicle is turbocharged but intake piping is removed for the emissions run currently running open throttle body as i dont have a spare intake elbow

 

perhaps you can ask the tuner? after all he installed the chip right?

 

I am trying to get ahold of him, he has been hard to get ahold of in the last few weeks,

 

shadyyy

 

when you say tuner, you mean a guy at a shop that actually works and installs parts on your car? is this man gonna dyno tune your turbo setup as well?

 

Sounds like a bad chipping job or he messed something up in the ecu

 

this is a local guy that i met over on azht.net, he does street tunes and sockets and chips ecu's. I have talked to him many times and met him a few times (other than giving and picking up the ecu), my main issue with him is just how hard he is to get ahold of, he has a kid and lives with his brother, who is single and has two kids of his own, so he is really busy.

 

not trying to make it sound like i dont believe you, but what can be bad on the chipping? like what could he have messed up that would give a solid red light on the ecu and a CEL?

just asking for reference

 

He could have shorted something out on the inside of the ecu its called static electricity. Or when soldering he could have over heated the circitry or he could have Burned a you a bad chip. It not hard to mess up a ecu. Also a solid red light means a bad ecu search or ask other members on hear if you don't belive me

 

oh i believe you, i was just wanting to know more about what you were talking about, just doing some research, and i have been googling the crap out of pr4 solid light combos and wordings.

just found this ala d-series.org via google in an article on chipping and ecu tech

At this point, you should have a working ECU with a new program. If you get a solid red light on a OBD0 ECU or a continuous CEL on OBD1 car and the car runs terribly with a very low rev limit and a stumbling idle, you probably have a bad connection. If the same thing happens 30-45seconds after you start the car, you probably failed to pray to the checksum gods. If the car runs weird, try putting a stock program in an verifying that the fuel/timing changes you made were not detrimental.

does that sound correct?