whats up guys i wanted to know if this a good deal or if the guy would be ripping me off? I know it doesnt come with the trans and ecu just the motor, what else would i need to swap it into my 1992 civic hatch is it worth it...my plan is to turbo the car, would this be a good engine to turbo? personal experiences? thanks..

http://huntsville.craigslist.org/pts/2186183709.html

 

sounds like a ok deal hes full of **** when it say vtec valve cover cause they wont fit and theres certainly some money in the edelbrock things just make sure there the real deal.

 

how do i make sure its the real thing

 

anymore advice guys?

 

do your research?

 

I guess my question would be are you willing to take a chance that this engine is healthy without knowing it's history? I wouldn't.

 

i dont think that its that bad...but i would do a compression test and get some receipts for it and when u buy it make sure he writes u a bill of sale...with engine number, his adress, name and phone number

 

They should have a company stamp somewhere like everyone else if their real id think. but it seems like a good price as long as its as good as he says.

 

That won't do anything. If he sells it to you "As Is" and the engine blows up on him later then what?

This type of question is subjective anyway. Depending on where you live prices will fluctuate a lot.

 

well for 600 he is giving me the motor without a distributer and starter and transmission and he giving me the p75 ecu and a gsr flywheel

 

Seems like a good deal, but herein lies the problem with purchasing from an individual and not a business with a solid reputation and a guarantee or warranty. When dealing with ebay or craigslist, it's hard to determine who is the real deal and who is a scammer. Wishing you luck.

 

"a dohc vtec valve cover "its not vtec".

thats enough to make me worry right there.

 

no. it will just be a waste of time. it's not a DOHC VTEC valve cover anyways. stay away

 

Do a compression test on it. because hes basically just selling a longblock anyway. its not complete without the dizzy & alternator. And i didnt know Edelbrock made cams for Honda's. Because It doesnt say they do on their website, and I've never seen them before. So he could be bsing on the cams aswell. But an edelbrock TB doesnt really do anything anyway, unless the manifold plenum was bored out to accept a bigger size. So basically its just a incomplete LS motor.

 

...not really.
the seller seems pretty BS and not very smart. theres few engines better then a b20. and doubtful its remarkably better.

and maybe its just me but 91k is about 40k from being low miles.

 

is the motor still in his car? if so do a compression test its not hard ill explain it if you need. if its off the car you need to do a leak down test but you have to find the tools for that and you needs an air compressor.
basically if he is down to warranty it then id say do it even if the warranty is that if there is something wrong with the motor you give it back and he gives you 500 instead of 600. but whatever the terms are make sure you have a typed or written paper on it with his signature, date, your signature too maybe even a witness signature and also a copy of his drivers license. but main thing to me is that you check and make sure that the motor is not stolen ask for the vin or a pic of the vin and go to you police station and have them run it. if he says the vin isnt there then there is still wa way to check the vin. On the block there are a believe 8 numbers under the b18b1 give the cop the block stamp and those numbers and they can run it through another database that only cops have to check that vin. Good Luck Bro

 

thanks guys for all the help but i found a complete gsr swap for $1700 thats the lowest i got him to sell it to me and the motor is still in his car so im going to drive it and check for any problems... but the only problem is that it already has 140k on it.... would it be worth it for that price? and he's including everything axels, ecu, shift linkages ect...

this the link
http://huntsville.craigslist.org/pts/2193085690.html

 

biggest problem when buying from people is u don't know if it's good or bad especially if you cant drive it. if u can, drive it before u buy it. good idea to do a compression test and/or leak down test.

ebay has complete gsr swaps for $2400 shipped. i would trust that more than random people off ebay.

 

Try b16a or b18c and you won't need turbo anymore.

 

I would wager that a b16a and a b18b with the same transmission would be about the same performance. The b18b might even be a bit better all around with 10-25 more ft/lbs of torque.

The only engines I would say in a Honda that "don't need a turbo" are b18c5, and k20/h22.

Basically big displacement engines, or those with kick-*** transmissions with LSD.

 

Have you ever tried b16a and b18b with the same S4C or Y80 tranny?

if not, you shouldn't waste money for the wager. Think about cylinder head, ECU of b16a and b18b, it's so different.

 

Regardless, the power output of a b18b is superior to a b16a. With the same transmission the performance would be close.

My point was that having vtec in a small displacement engine doesn't warrant the above poster for saying "you don't need turbo if you have vtec with a b16a or b18c"

I'm just pointing out that the b16a is gutless and slow. As are almost all stock honda b-series engines.

b16a2 Power: 160 hp (119 kW) @ 7600 rpm & 111 lb·ft (150 N·m) @ 7000 rpm

b18b Power: 142 hp (106 kW) @ 6300 rpm & 130 ft·lbf (180 N·m) @ 5200 rpm

If it's a JDM b18b it's likely do be about 150hp due to .2:1 higher compression.

I bolded the torque because that's what I mean in terms of more power. 10-20hp on the side of the b16a isn't going to make up for the 30 torque the b18b has over the b16a2 given they're both using the same transmission.

I'd like to know how in spite of the obvious performance output of the engines, how cylinder head efficiency or the ECU even matters enough to be a variable.

 

if you think 20 hp is close, I've nothing to say.

 

If you think 20-25 torque wouldn't make a difference you need to pull your head out of the sand.

The b16 also has to rev higher to make the power and torque it does. The b18b will be fundamentally faster at the lower rpms for simple displacement reasons.

 

You drive low rpms or high rpms in the track?