working on my friends 99 si. he picked up an h22 swap for it. it came with a ek ex wiring harness and ecu i think its a p2p? ordered a p28 chipped from phearable with h22 basemap, obd1 prelude h22 dizzy, and jumper harness to go from the obd2 harness to the obd1 ecu. we can start the car with the fuel pump hooked directly to the battery but otherwise it will not prime or run. we swaped out the main relay even tho we knew it was fine, with another one from my running car and no change. i looked at some diagrams for obd2 harness to obd1 dizzy and some of the color of wires didnt match what showed in the diagrams. he pulled a obd1 harness out of the salvage yard from a civic, and i am currently working on it to try. does anyone have any info on what the problem could be?

 

Check your grounds i had this same problem but it was with an ls Grounds are very important theres one on the main relay check that first

 

check ALL fuses and your main relay, dizzy wouldnt have anything to do with fuel it would still prime regardless. worst case its a bad fuel pump

 

fuses good, pump good hence it works hooked up to battery..and yes the fuel pump will not prime if the dizzy is not hooked up lol..i believe its the cam sensor which tells the main relay to open a few seconds because the motor is not running, and then it tells the relay to keep the fuel pump on when the motor is running....dizzy is a big part of it dude. correct me if im wrong but i believe that is right

 

also, the car ran fine, pulled out motor, tranny, ecu, wire harness for engine, and replaced it with the stuff i already stated. main relay, fuel pump, and all that jazz worked before the swap

 

The distributor is not needed for the fuel pump to prime for 2 seconds when the key is turned to ON(II). It is needed to keep the fuel pump running continuously after the prime and to make the fuel injectors fire. Your fuel pump doesn't even prime, right?

 

correct...it does not prime or run at all unless i hook it to the battery direct

 

Describe how you are connecting the battery directly to the fuel pump. What ground are you using, the battery ground or the fuel pump ground?

 

ran a wire from the pos wire of fuel pump to an empty spot in fuse box and put a fuse in. the fuel pump then kicked on. i did nothing to the ground side of the pump

 

Turn the key to ON(II) and then check whether the two top test tabs of installed 15A dash fuse 13 individually have voltage to body ground.

 

both tabs lit up my test light

 

also with the pump hooked up to the battery, and car running, if i unhook the wire i made running to the fusebox, the car dies

 

well, i called him and had him do the test light on the fuse and thats what he said so im not really sure, ill drive over there and redo it myself...what would be next it either or both arent getting power?

 

Sounds good. Now unplug the main relay and test whether terminal 5 (Yel/Grn wire from fuse 13) in the main relay plug has voltage to body ground. This voltage test is also done with the key in ON(II). If there is voltage at terminal 5, then use a jumper wire to connect terminal 5 to terminal 4 in the main relay plug. Does the fuel pump run when the key is turned to ON(II)? Make sure the fuel pump connector is plugged in for this test.

 

okay, just got back from his house, there is power at fuse 13 and i jumped the wires to the main relay and fuel pump came on. by the way the engine harness is now out of the car.

 

^That's good.

The next test that I recommend is to test for voltage at terminal 7 (Wht/Blk wire) of the main relay plug and also to jump terminal 7 to terminal 4 to see whether the fuel pump again runs.

If the pump runs, then check the important black ground wire at terminal 3 of the main relay plug with a multimeter. It should have continuity to body ground.

Finally, if the terminal 3 has continuity to body ground, then the problem is either a bad Grn/Yel wire that runs from main relay plug terminal 1 to OBD1 ECU A7/A8 (OBD2b ECU A16) or a bad ECU.

 

Hey Ron, sorry for bringing an old thread back but im having the same exact problem, ive gone through all the steps above and it seems like its either the grn/yel wire or my ecu thats messed. Now I just swapped a b16 into my ek, and ive been using this harness for my last 3 engines, its an obd 2 harness converted to obd 1 professionally. All my previous swaps have not given me any problems. So ive tried 2 ecu's a p28 and a p06 (from my last engine), both virgins and no luck. I'm also not getting any spark. But i want to fix 1 problem at a time and im trying to fix my fuel problem 1st. How would i go about to fix the "green/yellow" wire.

 

Start by starting your own thread.

 

Oh ok, i couldnt start a new one for some reason last night so i'll try again. Thanks.