Well my car drove perfectly fine for almost 3 years until recently I pulled the dash and got rid of the heater core and blower. Before I went for a run I did put the dash back in and plug it all up....while driving on the highway cruising in 5th gear slow approaching 4k rpm...once it hit 4k rpm the car started to sputter/choke...5 mins after that the cel came on. At a red light I turn the car off and turn it back on, the cel is clear, but would come back 10 min later. I went home and grounded the d4 ecu pin (0bdo-obd1) and check the cluster. The cel doesn't blink just stay solid even after I tried cranking it and it turn over it still stayed solid...any suggestion or help would be appreciated thanks crxcommunity

 

0 (defined by CEL remaining on steady both without and with the service connector jumped) - indicates ECU power or ground problem when engine will not start; begin by checking the three main relay fuses and the G101 ground attached to the thermostat housing.


check main ralay and ground. and power to the ecu may be hard to find but that should be the problem

first thing id so is reset codes see if it happens again

 

A solid light with no blink= a problem with the ecu itself basicly you need a new ecu

 

Ok well so far I just look back and found that I didn't put the speedo cable back in so imam put it back on to see any difference and check ground too.

 

that wont make a difference
speedo cable=mechanical
ecu=electrical

ecu is prob fine may just be a loose wire or something

 

ok thanks i will do a run down on what i have disconnected and got rid of.

 

if the speedo isnt hooked up it will throw a cel no matter if mech or elec

 

Every time we finish a car n use the jumper I got from Honda that connects into the blue 2-pin connector, we make sure the cel stay on, no flashes. (if we eliminated all the problems) N the car runs fine & is ready to leave. If I go outside n connect it to my car right now the cel will come on & stay on & I know for a fact my ecu is fine.


If you get a cel while cruising, and it does not show up immediately after turning the car off n back on, but comes back after a lil while of driving then its usually the o2 sensor itself, when it is a problem with the heater circuit part of an o2 (4 wire o2) then the light will usually come on immediately

You need to pull over n keep the car running when the light comes back on & check the code while the car is on

 

this is probably what i will need to do...can i still ground the D4 ecu pin and read the CEL while the car is running? cause i kno once i shut the car off and crank it back it the CEL wont be there no more.

 

as long as its the correct pin (idk off hand) then yup. BTW what ecu are u using?