Car Jerks when coming to a stop...
I have a 98 prelude auto tranny. I got it used and cheap and don't know a lot about its history... and it has 160,000 miles on it (ouch).
The issue is that, when coming to a complete stop, it has a noticeable jerk when, i guess, it seems to be shifting 2 to 1.
Otherwise there is no jerking or delay... it is only when coming to a complete stop. It does this almost 100% of the time. I can soften the jerk to almost nothing if i life off the break as i feel it coming on.
Does this sound like a serious transmission issue? I am no expert and still learning here.
The issue is that, when coming to a complete stop, it has a noticeable jerk when, i guess, it seems to be shifting 2 to 1.
Otherwise there is no jerking or delay... it is only when coming to a complete stop. It does this almost 100% of the time. I can soften the jerk to almost nothing if i life off the break as i feel it coming on.
Does this sound like a serious transmission issue? I am no expert and still learning here.
did it do this when you test drove it??
so, if it is less when you lift off of the brake, you don't think it's brake/rotor related? that's where i would start. is it making grinding noises when you brake?
so, if it is less when you lift off of the brake, you don't think it's brake/rotor related? that's where i would start. is it making grinding noises when you brake?
Didn't do it when test driving. Just really started happening yesterday.
It doesn't feel like a break issue. There is no grinding going on either. It feels to me as if its not downshifting correctly at that point. What I mean with the breaking is that the jerk itself isn't so rough if i release the break to allow the car to pop forward a little more smoothly when i feel it downshifting.
I'll be changing the ATF tonight but I'm hoping this isn't a sign of the transmission going.
It doesn't feel like a break issue. There is no grinding going on either. It feels to me as if its not downshifting correctly at that point. What I mean with the breaking is that the jerk itself isn't so rough if i release the break to allow the car to pop forward a little more smoothly when i feel it downshifting.
I'll be changing the ATF tonight but I'm hoping this isn't a sign of the transmission going.
i'm sure you've checked the fluid level, but hopefully, changing the fluid will help.
sadly, you have a crappy transmission. i love honda, but they should have done better with the AT.
sadly, you have a crappy transmission. i love honda, but they should have done better with the AT.
It's one of the signs.
It's common with the problematic '98-02 F-series, '97-01 H-series, and '98-05 J-series automatic transmissions.
However, that doesn't necessarily mean it's going to kick the bucket immediately. I've seen a few cases of an owner being able to nurse a failing transmission for multiple years before total failure.
Change the ATF. If it's particularly dirty-looking and/or smells burnt, change it again after a few hundred miles.
It's common with the problematic '98-02 F-series, '97-01 H-series, and '98-05 J-series automatic transmissions.
However, that doesn't necessarily mean it's going to kick the bucket immediately. I've seen a few cases of an owner being able to nurse a failing transmission for multiple years before total failure.
Change the ATF. If it's particularly dirty-looking and/or smells burnt, change it again after a few hundred miles.
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ATF Level wasn't low but more brown then it probably should be (didn't smell burnt to me either). So I am changing it out, and planning on changing it out a few more times every few hundred miles.
Will check this.
Will check this.
Does it shift up fine or is it rough? My old one did the same thing and it went out on me. But if its only when your coming to a stop its probably the transmission mount like they said.
Reverse is smooth, no issues, and into drive is smooth. Maybe 1 to 2 is a little rough but otherwise everything seems smooth enough. I'll find out if it may be a mount.
I really have no idea if this transmission has been rebuilt from a past owner but 160k+ seems to be a lot to still have the original tranny in it for this model don't you think?
Every now and then it seems like it might be a little rough going from 1 - 2 then anything else... but it may just be me over-worrying. I've definitely had cars without tranny issues that have been rougher. It's smooth otherwise so far... but i've only had the chance to put a couple hundred miles on it.
Reverse is smooth, no issues, and into drive is smooth. Maybe 1 to 2 is a little rough but otherwise everything seems smooth enough. I'll find out if it may be a mount.
I really have no idea if this transmission has been rebuilt from a past owner but 160k+ seems to be a lot to still have the original tranny in it for this model don't you think?
Reverse is smooth, no issues, and into drive is smooth. Maybe 1 to 2 is a little rough but otherwise everything seems smooth enough. I'll find out if it may be a mount.
I really have no idea if this transmission has been rebuilt from a past owner but 160k+ seems to be a lot to still have the original tranny in it for this model don't you think?
Well hopefully its just the mount and you can get it fixed easy. But ya mine had 140xxx when it died. just keep up on the fluid and DONT use the sportshift and you can keep it goin for awhile.
Uhm no one mentioned the filter. If the screen is partially block with debris this could cause some problems similar. If you change the fluid, you need to change the filter. Put in on a true back flush machine that flushes your cooler and all. NOT the Jiffy lube or Oil can henry's service!! Might be a valve body issue as well.
Let me know where the filter is on an H-series automatic transmission...
That's a great way to kill it completely...
Honda specifically states to never power-flush an automatic transmission in their literature. Backflushing the cooler is fine, but for the trans itself it's a no-no.
Put in on a true back flush machine that flushes your cooler and all.
Honda specifically states to never power-flush an automatic transmission in their literature. Backflushing the cooler is fine, but for the trans itself it's a no-no.
I'm definitely afraid to do a flush from what i've heard. It's gotten a little better I believe since I've changed the ATF once so far but it still has issues.
I did the service connector jump with a wire for the CEL codes and got one relating to the transmission: 70 - Automatic Transaxle
My d4 light blinked 4 times but I am unsure if it was fast or slow (how fast is fast)?
so if it were 4, it relates to: "This Relates to Vehicle speed sensor or sensor circuit fault." and 40 relates to "This Relates to Lock-up control system or circuit fault."
Could either of these have to do with the jerking? I looked up the VSS and some results hit back from google as to others having jerking issues (though usually at higher speeds) when the VSS has a fault. Think this is a good route to start?
I can't see an issue with any motor mounts but i need to investigate further.
I did the service connector jump with a wire for the CEL codes and got one relating to the transmission: 70 - Automatic Transaxle
My d4 light blinked 4 times but I am unsure if it was fast or slow (how fast is fast)?
so if it were 4, it relates to: "This Relates to Vehicle speed sensor or sensor circuit fault." and 40 relates to "This Relates to Lock-up control system or circuit fault."
Could either of these have to do with the jerking? I looked up the VSS and some results hit back from google as to others having jerking issues (though usually at higher speeds) when the VSS has a fault. Think this is a good route to start?
I can't see an issue with any motor mounts but i need to investigate further.
Last edited by ascetic; Feb 3, 2011 at 04:38 PM.
Long, one second blinks indicate a 10, and shorter blinks indicate a 1.
My car had a similar issue. It turned out to be worn radius rod bushings, as the engine mounts were all good. From what I can tell, when the transmission downshifts from second to first, the lower gear ratio will slow the car down. Doing so on my car caused the radius rods to be pulled back in their respective mounts in the forward subframe.
Try this: position the shifter in 1st gear, accelerate rapidly and then let off the accelerator, but do not touch the brakes. If you hear a clunk or feel a jerk, it may be the radius rod bushings. Given the mileage on your car, I wouldn't doubt it.
My car had a similar issue. It turned out to be worn radius rod bushings, as the engine mounts were all good. From what I can tell, when the transmission downshifts from second to first, the lower gear ratio will slow the car down. Doing so on my car caused the radius rods to be pulled back in their respective mounts in the forward subframe.
Try this: position the shifter in 1st gear, accelerate rapidly and then let off the accelerator, but do not touch the brakes. If you hear a clunk or feel a jerk, it may be the radius rod bushings. Given the mileage on your car, I wouldn't doubt it.
Let me know where the filter is on an H-series automatic transmission...
That's a great way to kill it completely...
Honda specifically states to never power-flush an automatic transmission in their literature. Backflushing the cooler is fine, but for the trans itself it's a no-no.
That's a great way to kill it completely...
Honda specifically states to never power-flush an automatic transmission in their literature. Backflushing the cooler is fine, but for the trans itself it's a no-no.
Ya I could see no harm in flushing a cooler..?
Not one of Honda's brighter ideas...
It's the filter. As I already said, it's not serviceable.
From the site containing the photo you linked:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...on_filter.html
See where it says "Transmission Must Be Removed And Disassembled To Change Filter" in the notes? Have a look where it's located:

Then you haven't worked on many Honda cars. None of the Honda automatics had externally replaceable filters until circa 2002-2003 (in-line filter for K-series, in-line filter or pleated paper element for J-series depending on model).
From the site containing the photo you linked:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...on_filter.html
See where it says "Transmission Must Be Removed And Disassembled To Change Filter" in the notes? Have a look where it's located:

I'm confused.. never seen an auto tranny with no filter.
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