Im about to start the build on my 98 B18C-R OB2 and this is my current parts list that Im planning on dropping in. Im going to keep it NA and well any suggestions would be nice.

Skunk2 Composite Fuel Rail
Mugen Baffled Oil Pan
Blox Racing Adjustable FPR
Blox Racing FMU
NGK Wires
ARP Head Studs
BuddyClubRacingSpec Camshaft Spec IV
BuddyClubRacingSpec Dual Valve Springs
BuddyClubRacingSpec Stainless Steel Valves
BuddyClubRacingSpec Titanium Retainers
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Skunk2 74mm T.Body
BuddyClubRacingSpec Head Gaskets


This car is going to be for weekend warrior bullshit... so its got to maintain drivability while still being able to have fun... ADIOS

 

Keep your stock rail unless you want that bling factor.

for a baffeled oil pan. look into moroso. might be cheaper. unless you want a mugen for the name.

new oem honda plug wires will out perform ngk's. Msd's are the only thing that really do much. msd's wires are the only worth while thing they make for honda's. everything else is pretty crappy.

arp head studs. yes

skunk2 pro 1's

skunk2 pro springs and retainers

new stock valves or skunk2's new valves

edlebrock victor x manifold or skunk2 if you prefer the style of it

professional products throttle body. paying for the name on the skunk2 one. 74mm might be a bit overkill for your app. make sure you get the tb port matched to the im.

OEM gaskets

Build it right, tune it, and you wont have to do it again.

Make sure you pick up a good header. rmf, hytech rep, ect.

I assume you are only building the head? Judging by your parts list.

 

what you're missing is an obd1 ecu and whatever your local tuner wants to use to tune your car, hondata, crome etc.

replace your valve seals and check the build up on the exhaust valves. if you shave .010 off the head to true it up you'll also get a minor compression increase

tuning on 310cc or at least the 270cc prelude injectors would also be smart. all said and done with a bad *** header that should be near or at 200whp which is the limit of your stock 240s

 

Thanks for the suggestions, Im going with the hondata s300 for the almost endless capabilities on the tune...
Imma build the block too just haven't decided to what end honestly, been focused on the head (thats what she said) ... Im planning on running the 310CC injectors actually I just forgot to mention them.... Any block suggestions?

 

Ok so did some more listing and this is what I've come up with...

Skunk2 Pro 1's
Skunk2 Pro Valve springs and Titanium retainers
Professional Products 68MM T.body
OEM gaskets
OEM Plugs
Moroso Baffled Oil pan
340CC Injectors
Valve seals
Fluidampr Harmonic Dampener
ENDYN 12.5:1 Roller wave pistons 81.5
Golden Eagle Block Guard
ENDYN Block Girdie, Timing Tensioner, oil pump, breather kit
ARP Studs for everything
Stock crank knife edged and balanced


everything will be honed and matched for perfect fit... All this is in addition to the above list i first posted... let me know what you think, any suggestions..

 

Balance everything and throw in some jdm Itr pistons. Thats about it. Keep it mostly stock. Less problems.

 

cool cool

 

Moroso pan is known to have fitment issues and can/will leak

Don't go with Ti retainers unless you want to keep replacing them every 15k miles.

Block guard and girdle is not needed.

For pistons, look into JDM P30's. Cheap and available. CTR's are not any longer.

2 things I see missing though, header and air intake. Maybe, with money saved you could go with a Mugen intake and Toda/SMSP/Hytech or other comparible header.

One last thing I would suggest with your build would be an Intake Manifold. Something like the Edlebrock Performer X (not Victor X) manifold.

Also PM'd you.

 

they actually have a cheap baffled design now that's basically an oem with a full baffle and oil temp sensor port

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-20911

you would have to try to create fitment issues with one

were you thinking of the big 5qt aluminum $400 pan?

do agree on p30s, the endyn rollerwave pistons are great for high boost and or extreme circuit track use. for a street motor they rattle when cold and will not put in the kind of mileage cast will. cast is plenty strong for the 200-210whp you're going to make

as for the whole 310-340 injector thing, buy whichever is cheapest. tuning wise the s100 is more than enough for this combo unless you really want the extra features of the 300

the fluiddamper is also unnecessary when you have the engine balanced the oem damper is not only easy to balance the engine with, if you ever damage it another is not hard to find.

you could also balance your clutch and flywheel to further reduce harmonics

do make sure you check and or replace those exhaust valves. intakes run virtually forever as long as the valve job is good, exhaust valves have an actual life due to heat cycling. as old as these engines are i would have to see one frag on you after the build

 

Any pics of the caR and build??

 

If you really want to wake the car up, skip all that stuff you listed and build a 2.0L block.

I ran a stock ITR head/cams for about 6 months prior to building my head after installing a sleeved 2.0L. The ITR cams were a bit small and I was riding the knock limit at that compression ratio, but still had a great powerband.

Only difference between the Red line and Green line was 2.0L block and tune.

 

I have never seen that dyno plot before. Good info... Since you are throwing building a 2.0L out there, your suggestions for sleeves, pistons and rods.

 

For a budget: ~$1,000
Nippon cast 84mm ITR pistons - $250
ITR rods w/ARP rod bolts - $0 use existing rods / $150 for hardware + Machine Shop Labor
ITR crank - $0 - Use existing
ACL bearings - $120 for rods & mains
ARP headstuds - $120
OEM Gasket Set - $50
84mm Headgasket - $75
B20Z block - You should be able to source for < $400 + $100 for a machine shop to hone & clean

This setup would be good for a mild build, revs under 9000 RPM reliably. You will be limited in cam size / cam timing unless you machine out the valve reliefs. Any stage 2 cam installed correctly would work, but your Piston-To-Valve clearances will be tight as cam size increases.

-------

For a more robust build: ~$2,000
Sleeve current ITR block to 85mm - Benson / Golden Eagle ~$900
CP/Wiseco/JE pistons (They're all good) - $400
Brian Crower/Eagle Rods - $400
ACL Bearings - $120
ARP Headstuds - $120
OEM Gasket Set - $50
85mm Headgasket - $75

I was on the fence about going F.I. down the road, so I got Eagle Rods knowing they're good to ~600-700whp under boost. If I knew I was staying N/A I would have bought some lighter rods like the BC's.

I have over 25,000 miles on my 2.0L and it doesn't burn a drop of oil with perfect compression across the board. I had my block machined/sleeved by Dan Benson, assembled myself.

The best part about starting with the block is that you get an instant increase in HP/Torque across the entire RPM band. While you get used to the new power, you can save for a cylinder head package.

You can get really good exhaust manifolds these days for cheap. I forked out a lot of cash for my Comptech Race Header back in 2005 when I built this motor, but now you can get a Hytech knock-off or RMF Replica for pennies in comparison. So add a few hundred dollars for a replica header and a tune, good-to-go.

 

Keep it OEM, keep it simple, keep it reliable.

My only deviations internally are b16 pistons, 4.785 final drive and it's been absolutely great, has taken plenty of hours driving to/from track events and slaughtering it while there.

 

You would have to try really hard to have fittment issues with a moroso oil pan. Its a stock oil pan with a baffel welded in. Same thing as the mugen, just cheaper.

I cant believe you would even think about ctr's in that motor any way. compression would be through the roof. Around 13:1 lets say. Trust me I know because I'm dealing with it now.

Performer x is going to give power and torque between 4200-8200 rpm. Victor x because of the shorter runners will produce more power between 7000 and 10000 rpm. Which ever fits your applacation better. Both are good manifolds.

 

i got a pretty good budget, no pics yet this project is going to kick off in about 4 months when i move back home. im just doing build sheet after build sheet and configuring what i think imma like best, these are all great suggestions, its seriously like a kid in a candy store... im even playing with the option of b18b with turbo setup and having ENDYN build the whole motor for 25lbs boost... so many options on the table... thanks everybody... keep the info coming, its helping alot...