I have a 97 Prelude SH and was thinkin about puttin a turbo in it. I have two questions:
1. I heard that the SH is not a good car to be boosted and shouldnt be boosted, is this true??? whats wrong with the SH?
2. What turbo kits do you guys suggest?

 

Supposedly the ATTS can't handle too much power ( 230 at the wheel is max), or else it shuts off or goes haywire. I haven't turboed my SH, so I can't tell you first hand. I "heard" of some SH owners using JRSCs and running fine though. But you should turbo yours and tell us how it turned out.

 

go with the jrsc. its the only thing i know so far for sh ludes.

 

The problem (this is all speculation since none of us has worked on the ATTS system with known Honda specifications) is the boot spike with turbos. ATTS seems to like the progressive power of the JRSC (boost, slowly build, all the time) or the N/A route. With turbos, you get that spike when you get into boost at around 3000-3500 RPM. This is what throws the system off. But if you're going twith a high power application ATTS will just not work, don't expect it to handle 260+hp PERIOD. It wasn't designed for that kind of power and will just shut off when near double of it's stock power is thrown at it.

 

I helped a friend of mine build a Turbo SH, pushing about 23 PSI (until it ran into piston problems), and the ATTS system never had any problems, it was the check engine light that was always on. You could tell the ATTS system worked because it would light up the outside wheel in a turn when boost kicked in, causing massive understeer.

 

That would be a first that I've ever heard of a turbo car pushing more than 10+ PSI having no ATTS problems. What other drivetrain modifications did he have?

 

A six puck clutch, custom axles, light flywheel......I think that's it

 

Thanks for the replies, i appreciate it!
What i might do is just trade in my SH for a base and then take it from there
If you come to think about it the only things that really seperate the base from the SH is the ATTS and a stock honda ground effects kit....if you can call it that, and some other things too but im still half asleep....(its 7:00 here in PA)

 

If the check engine light is on, the ATTS disables. I can guarantee you that the ATTS was not functioning at that time.

 

agree

 

The point ofatts is to counter understeer. If you guys had massive understeer in a turn, then the system shut off.

PS. what do you mean by "it would light up the outside wheel in a turn"? are you refering to the ATTS light or the check engine light?

 

How the ATTS system works is it send power to the outside wheel in a turn, but with so much power, and most of that power being transferred to the outside wheel, the tire would "light up" or "break loose in a storm of smoke" or "massively slip due to excess power" , this is what caused the understeer, not the ATTS turning off, but if it's true that if the check engine light is on the ATTS sytem is off, then it was disabled a ot of the time......but not all

I'm editing this one because I can't post a new one......I should say that the Check engine light wasn't "always on" but it was about half of the time, the ECU didn't like the piggyback systems and would bitch about them a lot. Still ran strong though, lot's of torque. Best 1/4 mile was on 28 inch drag slicks, 14.1 at 121mph.....burning the tires until 4th gear.....fast....but not quick




[Modified by Niozoin, 1:02 PM 9/25/2002]

 

Damn, I missed that point about the check engine light. The ATTS system disables ANYTIME the check engine light is on. So you weren't running with ATTS anytime that light was on. With just the initial surge of power you might of been able to light up the outer tire with the open differential.

 

is there any way to increase traction at the front wheels so they don't spin as easilty, like maybe get a 7.5 inch wide wheel. My outside wheel brakes loose in the rain sometime, but damn, thats alot of tourqe on your friend's setup

 

guys, come on, why arent you asking these questions in the preludeonline forced induction section


anyways, you can either just remove the atts unit, or permanently disable it. its not a big deal. people just say its not a good car to turbo because A) they dont know any different B)the atts becomes dead weight after being turboed.

 

Alright first off Matt, "preludeonline forced induction section.." This is Honda-tech, and second ATTS is a Prelude specific question. No other Honda in the states runs it to my knowledge. Second, you can't remove the ATTS unit w/o using some custom axles, switching in a base tranny, and doing a LOT of custom work to get it all to fit. "its not a big deal." Permanently disabling it would be alright, except it sucks about 3% more power then the base, it becomes 80lbs of dead weight, on top of the fact that they wanted it to work. Plus they have an additional clutch pack on top standard differential that might go wrong if it's disabled especially with high power applications. So Matt, before posting know a little bit about your subject.

As per more traction on the outside tire, there's not much you can do about the rain. Get a better tire, a wider tire might help a little bit but not to any obvious amount in the rain. Just SLOW DOWN in the rain.

 

the only reason i said something about prelude online is because no one here seemed to know

quit crying

i have a turbo lude, 5th gen, base, and i helped a friend turbocharge his SH

we left the unit alone for a while, and the car ran fine, except it would give an annoying cel every now and then, since then, he told me he "disabled" it and like i said, its just dead weight, and not that big of a deal on a car pushing 244 hp at 6psi.

need a tissue to wipe the tears away?

 

Very inteligent post... Second, it's probably not the best idea to push the power levels much further. Since ATTS is a clutch based system, and I really don't know anyone who wants to rebuild it.

 

I meant adding traction on the turbo lude, mine only lost traction once in the rain.

As for removing the ATTS, isn't that the whole point of the SH? I don't know, maybe its just me, but I would just sell that and get an older base model.

 

Well there's also some benifits of having an SH model. The SH model has much more caster than a base model and a few other things. The entire front suspension design on the SH is different than the base. But if you're going turbo, I agree it's not worth the differences to offset a standalone computer with an LSD. As per adding traction, just get an LSD there's not too much more you can do than that.

 

i know that if you get some form of ecu upgrade to let you tune turbo and other engine ****, like AEM EMS, there is no ecu plug for ATTS and this is eliminated.