90 DA headlights
I just bought a 90 4-door teg. First the passenger headlight low beam didnt work. Got need bulbs. Low beam still dead. Both high beam work. 15 minutes later. Driver high beam dead. Low beam stills work. Passenger low beam still dead. High beam works. Need help. Could it be a short. Anyone has a write up to rewire the lights.
Here OP,this should help solve the problem for you
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/troubleshooting-dim-blown-out-headlight-2888698/
If the car is still stock,the little box will be white in color. GL
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/troubleshooting-dim-blown-out-headlight-2888698/
If the car is still stock,the little box will be white in color. GL
It is not likely a grounding issue as both the low and high beams use a common ground, if it was a grounding issue no head lights would work on one side or the other, although it is possible it could be a grounding issue at the bulb socket, [holder].
If the fuses are good it is either a problem with the head light switch or the wiring.
Does the flash to pass work?
If so, it is a switch problem.
If not it may still be a switch problem, you will need to do some testing, use a test light or meter to test for voltage, [power] at the fuses when head light switch is on, fuse 3(L)&4(R)are for the low beams, fuse 9(R)&10(L) are the high beams.94
If the fuses are good it is either a problem with the head light switch or the wiring.
Does the flash to pass work?
If so, it is a switch problem.
If not it may still be a switch problem, you will need to do some testing, use a test light or meter to test for voltage, [power] at the fuses when head light switch is on, fuse 3(L)&4(R)are for the low beams, fuse 9(R)&10(L) are the high beams.94
Last edited by fcm; Jan 30, 2011 at 10:14 AM. Reason: typo
i would probably start by checking for power at the bulb socket. if you have power, you're getting a poor connection. a lot of times the tangs in the socket get corroded, or need to be tweaked a little to make a good connection.
either way, i'd probably start at the socket, then connector, since they're relatively easy to get at
either way, i'd probably start at the socket, then connector, since they're relatively easy to get at
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No one has said it was the bulb, in fact OP said they are new, the OP has also said he has checked the fuses.
Although the above does not mean that it still can't be the bulbs or fuses, they have been checked so OP needs to move on, testing for power at the fuses will tell you if the problem is the switch, the fuse box or after the fuse box, even if it is a defective fuse, [no continuity under load] if tested on the load side of fuse.
Or as mentioned test for power, [and ground] at the bulb sockets.
We fix or replace one or two bulb sockets a week, because of corrosion.94
Although the above does not mean that it still can't be the bulbs or fuses, they have been checked so OP needs to move on, testing for power at the fuses will tell you if the problem is the switch, the fuse box or after the fuse box, even if it is a defective fuse, [no continuity under load] if tested on the load side of fuse.
Or as mentioned test for power, [and ground] at the bulb sockets.
We fix or replace one or two bulb sockets a week, because of corrosion.94
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