B16 vs.B18 turbo build up
i have a 99 LS Integra (non VTEC), and i want to turbo-charge it, im planning on building the engine, and hopefully running around 12-15 PSI.. street driven... I have a spare B16A sitting in my garage right now, so what i need is some opinions on if i should use the 1.8 non V-TEC because of the torque or if i should use the B16A, becasue it likes to rev... keep in mind that either engine would be built with good parts... thanks for any advice you guys can offer,
im not new to the import performance scene, but i am new to the turbocharged end of it all...
im not new to the import performance scene, but i am new to the turbocharged end of it all...
heh you almost copied my post
b16 will have ALOT less TQ
other than that i dunno i'm asking almost same question
but i'm choseing to go either b18c1 or b18b
b16 will have ALOT less TQ
other than that i dunno i'm asking almost same question
but i'm choseing to go either b18c1 or b18b
if i put the vtec head on the B18B that would create an LS VTEC... which i personally am not a big fan of... the rod/stroke ratio of the B18B block wont allow it to rev high, but the only benefit of the Vtec head is the vtec, so basically, the head wants to make power upto 9,000 but the bottom end wants to throw a rod through the block at 7500...
i want to keep a complete engine, either a B16A, or a B18B its not going to cost me anymore to build either one, becasue i have both at my disposal...
i want to keep a complete engine, either a B16A, or a B18B its not going to cost me anymore to build either one, becasue i have both at my disposal...
If you get a quality build up on the head and the block, you should see some decent revs off of a B18B IMO.
To your original question, I would shoot for B18B personally. More low end torque and if done right there is plenty of power up top too. Just ask around on the board about some people's B18B setups, you'll be surprised.
To your original question, I would shoot for B18B personally. More low end torque and if done right there is plenty of power up top too. Just ask around on the board about some people's B18B setups, you'll be surprised.
get the B18B turbo. There is no replacement for displacement.
shameless plug... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=288690
shameless plug... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=288690
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[QUOTE]if i put the vtec head on the B18B that would create an LS VTEC... which i personally am not a big fan of... the rod/stroke ratio of the B18B block wont allow it to rev high, but the only benefit of the Vtec head is the vtec, so basically, the head wants to make power upto 9,000 but the bottom end wants to throw a rod through the block at 7500...
QUOTE]
Find yourself a B17 crankshaft...
QUOTE]
Find yourself a B17 crankshaft...
hmmmmm....in your case id stay 1.8 but if it was me I would go 1.6.
Too muc torque for our cars blows ***....NO TRACTION....yu would still make plenty of it anyways with a b16. i think its totally your call.....both are good in their own ways.. just do a search....read around and make the call.
Too muc torque for our cars blows ***....NO TRACTION....yu would still make plenty of it anyways with a b16. i think its totally your call.....both are good in their own ways.. just do a search....read around and make the call.
b16 not bad for boost at all. I was making 240 to the wheels at 10psi...very conservatily tuned with hondata.
It pulled like a motha *****, the top end was INSANE....and I never drove it at 10psi! At 7 pounds I was trapping 104mph in my 97 coupe. 10 psi, drag radials, and a good launch should give you 12's.
It didn't have loads of tq...but what good is it if you can't put it to the ground.
It pulled like a motha *****, the top end was INSANE....and I never drove it at 10psi! At 7 pounds I was trapping 104mph in my 97 coupe. 10 psi, drag radials, and a good launch should give you 12's.
It didn't have loads of tq...but what good is it if you can't put it to the ground.
thats exactly my thoughts, torque is great, IF (and thats a big IF) you can put it to the ground, but my car is daily driven, no 900 lb springs in the back, no bogarts with 10 inch wide slicks, and no VHT... so i dont see that i need any more torque, my EG with the B18C5 could spin through 2nd on street tires, and it was only making about 210 HP im hoping to make over 300 with the turbo set up... and i dont even want to have to run drag radials, i want to run my Kumho's every day, and just throw on the bogarts w/ slicks at the track...
i run a 259hp setup on my 2000 civic full interior and all, at 8to1 compression i pulled a 8.9 in the 8th with no traction at all. b16s are cool by me
[Modified by turboex, 3:17 AM 9/25/2002]
[Modified by turboex, 3:17 AM 9/25/2002]
You DONT need the more torque!!!!!
a stock b16 vs b18b...b16 is faster even with less torque...
and with out front drive....its almost pointless of making a car with killer torque because you will NOT be able to put the power down!
even b16's with jrsc's putting down 145 TORQUE have such a hard time with traction!!!!!
BUT since you already have a b18..just stick wiht it
[Modified by SiRkid, 11:11 PM 10/5/2002]
a stock b16 vs b18b...b16 is faster even with less torque...
and with out front drive....its almost pointless of making a car with killer torque because you will NOT be able to put the power down!
even b16's with jrsc's putting down 145 TORQUE have such a hard time with traction!!!!!
BUT since you already have a b18..just stick wiht it
[Modified by SiRkid, 11:11 PM 10/5/2002]
You DONT need the more torque!!!!!
a stock b16 vs b18b...b16 is faster even with less torque...
and with out front drive....its almost pointless of making a car with killer torque because you will NOT be able to put the power down!
even b16's with jrsc's putting down 145 TORQUE have such a hard time with traction!!!!!
BUT since you already have a b18..just stick wiht it
[Modified by SiRkid, 11:11 PM 10/5/2002]
a stock b16 vs b18b...b16 is faster even with less torque...
and with out front drive....its almost pointless of making a car with killer torque because you will NOT be able to put the power down!
even b16's with jrsc's putting down 145 TORQUE have such a hard time with traction!!!!!
BUT since you already have a b18..just stick wiht it
[Modified by SiRkid, 11:11 PM 10/5/2002]
If you are resleeving then go b16. I'm running b16 with headwork at 84.5mm.
This setup is good for 500 plus hp, but more importantly I get to keep doing the sole thing that keeps me a honda driver, revving high. There may be no replacement for displacement, but there is no replacement for pushing 400whp in a 2000lb car while shifting at 9200rpm.
This setup is good for 500 plus hp, but more importantly I get to keep doing the sole thing that keeps me a honda driver, revving high. There may be no replacement for displacement, but there is no replacement for pushing 400whp in a 2000lb car while shifting at 9200rpm.
If money isn't an issue which it doesn’t seem to be, I would say do what I am doing. I have a B16a1 head, which I ported and polished, custom valve train Titanium Retainers/Spring Kit, GSR cams. Then for your b18 blocks bore that bitch into a 2.0liter and sleeve it, custom 9.1/1 compression pistons, strong rods, and you will be set.
Now that will be ONE NASTY BEAST. You will have a motor that will rev like no other, major displacement and will be able to handle 25psi like nothing. Lets just say depending on turbo and tuning you will be easily up in the 400hp easy 11s in the 1/4 depending on car and driver and location, but I would say fucken dope ***. You wont have to worry about your motor.
Now that will be ONE NASTY BEAST. You will have a motor that will rev like no other, major displacement and will be able to handle 25psi like nothing. Lets just say depending on turbo and tuning you will be easily up in the 400hp easy 11s in the 1/4 depending on car and driver and location, but I would say fucken dope ***. You wont have to worry about your motor.
Please dont be gay, why sell both when he can make a better engine by combining them. That was stupid, then you can sell what you dont need, a b16 block and ls head??????? come on now lets think a lil before we speak... but this is all up to him, not my decision.
ownegggg
ownegggg
I have a fully built ls/vtec meaning everything possible reliability wise. If I could do it over again I would stick with the b18b if i were you and build it up. Don't get me wrong i can't complain my car makes some pretty decent power and im happy but $$$. You will make more than enough power with the b18b motor for sure.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R THIS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i put the vtec head on the B18B that would create an LS VTEC... which i personally am not a big fan of... the rod/stroke ratio of the B18B block wont allow it to rev high, but the only benefit of the Vtec head is the vtec, so basically, the head wants to make power upto 9,000 but the bottom end wants to throw a rod through the block at 7500...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uhm, I don't know where you got all that bad tech from, but...
For NA use, I recommend you assemble your LS/VTEC using stock Honda parts. Pete E./Pest's B20/VTEC had a stock Honda bottom end - CRV bottom end, which uses LS rods and crank and a bigger heavier piston on top. By your theory he should have pitched a rod at less than 7500 rpm, but in actuality he revved to 8400 rpm daily and made 184 whp off a collection of OEM parts. It lasted a little over 40K miles before a Skank2 cam gear wallowed out. If you are building the engine... the point is irrelevant. Rev it to whatever you want to.
As far as the VTEC cylinder head, the only benefit it has is flow. The VTEC itself is worthless, I **** on it. Since we are dealing in forced induction, where you manipulate pressure differential to achieve a desired cfm (cfm directly = hp), head flow is pretty worthless unless your head is restrictive to the point it does not allow your compressor to flow it's maximum cfm. Last I checked, a stock LS head could flow more than you can lay to the ground in a streetcar without representing any restriction to any of the commonly used compressors.
Uhm, I don't know where you got all that bad tech from, but...

For NA use, I recommend you assemble your LS/VTEC using stock Honda parts. Pete E./Pest's B20/VTEC had a stock Honda bottom end - CRV bottom end, which uses LS rods and crank and a bigger heavier piston on top. By your theory he should have pitched a rod at less than 7500 rpm, but in actuality he revved to 8400 rpm daily and made 184 whp off a collection of OEM parts. It lasted a little over 40K miles before a Skank2 cam gear wallowed out. If you are building the engine... the point is irrelevant. Rev it to whatever you want to.
As far as the VTEC cylinder head, the only benefit it has is flow. The VTEC itself is worthless, I **** on it. Since we are dealing in forced induction, where you manipulate pressure differential to achieve a desired cfm (cfm directly = hp), head flow is pretty worthless unless your head is restrictive to the point it does not allow your compressor to flow it's maximum cfm. Last I checked, a stock LS head could flow more than you can lay to the ground in a streetcar without representing any restriction to any of the commonly used compressors.


