Tonight I was driving and notice the car was stumbling when i held it at a steady speed. I was doing 40 and the car would like cut out a little, hesitate stumble...

Seemed like it just wanted to keep being blasted, seeing a rpm range.

I had the FPR adjusted to like 52 psi. when it was under load it was a little higher around 60 or more. i lowered it back to 48-50 and drove around

Still stumbled. not sure why its doing it all the sudden. bad gas? have we tried running 100+ octane? is this wise? clean car out?


Being that it is cold and all im not sure if it has a diffrence but car is running funny

Anyone know anything to revise or check let me know Thanks

 

come on honda techs i am looking for some imput


i thought we would of gotten a peep by now

 

I have the same engine in mine, I had a similar problem as well. Search for "strange b16 problem" on this forum and see if the stumbling is the same. If you can't find it I'll find it and link it for you.

 

Here's the url: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/%2A%2Astrange-jdm-b16-problem-%2A%2A-2727430/


TL;DR version is it ended up being one of the plastic injector screens wedged in the fuel rail.

 

thanks bud im going to read

 

Really didnt help.


It could be the strainers on the injectors but i doubt it. car pops when i really get on it again like i have some detonation going on in the exhaust manifold, gases must be poping give like 2-3 pops. Everyone says it shouldnt but idk. how the F is a Tuner going to Tune this thing any further than i am?


Tuning a b16 requires what? Everyone thinks dynos and computers.

just not sure. everyone presses me for tuning and its like whats a tuner going to do that im not going to? like i dont have a dyno and what not but i built my car completely from the ground up and turned almost every single bolt on the car twice. taking it off and re installing it.

I do not have a chip. stock p30 ecu.

What i do have is :

b16a xsi engine (170hp) stock
buddy club spec3+ cams. full valve train.
DnX civic mid section 2.5 stainless. Goes from stock exhaust mani, to the large mid section
B&m fpr and gauge. thats about it. everything else is mostly stock configuration

Wasnt sure who or what a tuner would do to make things a little smoother. i have tried and tried to tune but im not sure what can further be done.

im not tryin to chip the ecu either. or hook it into any programs.

 

What ECU? Any check engine lights?

 

your fuel pressure is too high man, by about 10 psi

 

Your engine is doing this because you are running too rich. You need to lower your fuel pressure to around 43 PSI. Your stock O2 is probably pretty plugged up now too...

Why do you have it set so high???

 

I had a simlar problem with my b18c if it's missfiring check plugs and wires,

If it stumbles at a steady throttle position check tps and map sensors.

good luck

 

Same thing with mine if i kept it at a steady speed. It was my dizzy.

 

Some one already asked but... Is the car throwing any codes (check engine light)?

 

Like said befor you fuel pressure is pretty high try lowering it and wat are you using to tune the car with??? Crome,neptune, hondata. When tuned on a dyno. They can tune at wot and half throttle. While monitoring afr,iat engine temp and everything else so unless you are using a data logger to log then review and make changes Its not gonna be as acurate as being tuned on a dyno

 

well

I bumped my pressure up to like 50-51 becasue i had a large math formula that i had configured for a 10% performance increace. Which would compensate first off for a more free flowing exhaust. I have a fully built head so i would assume the head would want more fuel? Why did i just go through getting the whole fuel pressure regulator and gauge thinking this was going to change things? The car was already running at 40 psi and had done simmilar ****. Having a hard time believe that im being told that my fuel pressure is too high. really i am. I may be mistaken or wrong but i have done the formula correct and thats where i got my numbers.

My distribtor is throwing code 9. No one can solve the problem. this has been going on since day 1. I purchased a brand new distributor and the thing did the same, threw the same code. I have tested the wires ohm reading and diffrent voltage measures and just everything checked out OK. When i did notice the plugs wires were orange white to white orange i was conserned, wires were flipped at dist plug meaning the CYP sensors orange and white wires were crossed. ? would this be a problem becasue i "corrected" that and the thing still fires code 9 at me. Is the cross some where else in the wiring to the ECU.

Just not sure what the deal is. no one can figure the code out and im not wasting 500 on a oem honda distributor not provided that it still will work becasue i am also on my 2nd P30 ECU here.

 

Ya I agree, what formula are you using and what are you tuning with, something like megasquirt?

 

This link has alot of info including ecu codes. U just gatta scroll down a lil bit. I gots it book marked cuz it even has paint codes and engine #'s. Deff worth checking out.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-type-r-8/paint-code-championship-white-phoenix-yellow-blacks-789766/

 

Not tuning with anything?


Dialing in a fuel pressure gauge minimal and apperantly i am too rich. still dont get it dont make much sence. why would i put a fuel pressure regulator on for a 3-4 psi increase?

Pretty sure that the code 9 is the cylinder position sensor. it is a ocular sensor located inside the distributor on a shaft with 2 other sensors. if i could fix this or igure out why it is wrong i would have the light off. i think the whole issue is in the wiring some where with that

Formula is pretty basic.

F1 = injector flow (cc/min)
P1= current flow(psi)
F2= new injector flow(cc/min)
P2= new fuel pressure (psi)

This one is pretty basic its on a 5% increase.

270+5% or 0.05 X 270 (284/270)^2
these are pretty basic functions

I have done them for 1,5,10 and 15 percent incresese. These increse would be basied on MODS. A basic free flowing exhaust would compensate for a 10% increase.

0.10x270 (297/270)^2

Fuel pressure on this was the 52 psi and that is the basic math i have gone off. The exhaust modifaction is nothing. i would think that my engine would want to see more fuel pressure and psi.

 

Yes the. Cyp could be causing the problem. Try runing new wires from the ecu to the dizzy I belive the pins should be b10 and b12. And see if that fixes it if u still got the code make sure you have the wires in the right pin on the ecu try switching them and see wat happens

 

tony i was trying to locate the wires at the ecu port comming into the car.


Some where around there i think the wires may be crossed, your telling me it b12. b10? I have paper work to look at but

What wire should be where.. At the distributor i already discovered that they were crossed. i beliueve it was the engine harness that goes to the ecu, if i have already found the one mistake, the other is still probably at the other end.

I read and researched and this does have something to do with the sequential multi port fuel injection squirt.

When cylinder 1 dont know where it is theres a problem.

My car has had this code for like a year. If something would have exploded or grenaded it would have already. I replaced distributor and plop the other one on from time to time because its a OEM unit. the other is a 100 dollar ebay refurbi.

As soon as it warms up a little i will go lower the fuel pressure to like 42 PSI. right now its at 50 so i keep being told its like 10 psi too high and i dont know what everyone is basing there configuration off of. Like i mentioned before i wrote down that it was at 40 psi with out touching it. Honda manual says Fuel pressure is between 31-38 psi.

I have to do other work to my car. i will be pulling it in the garage at some point. I have to replace the front crossmember. I am not going with a traction bar. Also have to replace the gear oil in the trans. give it a flush. A oil change needs to be done and some other things. Right now i just drive the car here, there and what not every now and than i whale on it and i expirence some poping.

I have basically been hand tuning this by sight and sound. I do not have a RPM gauge housing so determing RPM and Vtec take off is like being blind folded. I learned to listen tho and havent had a problem yet.

aside from this my other main consern is the fact that i dont have a tach and am not sure if my idle speed is correct to go in with the timing.

 

does it burn any oil? the ecu code is definitely a problem that needs fixed. i'm not familiar with your cams, but on my B16 it sounded better with the fuel at a lower PSI than stock. i eventually put it back at stock PSI, so don't go by sound. i have taken apart 2 different XSi B16s that were running ok and found the pistons cracked in pieces at the ring lands. it may be time for a rebuild and then a fresh tune.

 

A free flowing exhaust will not allow the engine to "breathe" 10% more air... that's obsurd. Maybe 1% if that.

The "right" way to increase fueling is to increase injector pulse width. Increasing fuel pressure also affects injector dead time, etc..

 

Rule #1: Always eliminate any malfunction indication codes before proceeding _#(*@!(_#*!@#(*@!(#_*@!#_#(*@_(#*@!(_#*@

 

well all this stuff is all pretty old shool. My engine is now 20 years old.

These fuel pressure regulators are 10-11 years old. The instructions that it comes with has all these mathamatical calculations.

It also says the mentions about a 5% increase on airflow and 10% based on a free flowing exhaust. so Its all readily available on B&M website.

My car does not burn any oil. I have replaced everything gasket wise and used hondabond on all applications. As for SOUND? im not like reving my engine thinking that the fuel is making it sound good. The cams are so tall that the primary lobes are almost just as tall as vtec lobes. Car sounds Really good. I have ligned up with my brothers cammed integra and my car sounds completely diffrent. I also have brand new timing belts which make the car sound supercharged. When i say im going by sound, i am talking about the vtech engagment point to the power zone. the car powers up are extra 1000 rpm with the cam shafts but i do not reccomend revving the day lights out of any car. Real easy way to cut its life in half. I will lower the fuel pressure to 40 psi? 41 Psi? whats the number we reccomend.

The ECU code like i said i have been working on for a long time. Not to many people are real good with that and i do not have many people who are like reputable tuners or LOOK at hondas all day. I pretty much handle all my own stuff. Have built a whole car. fixed many other hondas and recently have done a few swaps and misc fixing on related cars, i am mostly firmilliar with the systems and components at this point.

When i mentioned the Wires that control the CYP sensor seems like no one really has any ideas. When i said that i tested the orange and white wires and the readings all checked with in the mesaurable limits i said it was all good. I performed same teast on Both distribiutors. I have mention that the wires @ the 8p plug on the harness side were also Crossed. I had depinned them and set back up to orange+orange White+white i thought it would be ok. I have not crawled into the underside of the glovebox to check the wires or EVEN if the wires are crossed at the FIRE WALL becasue i just aint SURE The wiring is very very in depth and i just dont feel like scrambling my brain again right now. the wires on the sensor should run to a fire wall connection as well. What are the locations of the pins on the fire wall plug. They could be crossed there as well. I have a feeling the person who set me up for the wiring could have had these crossed. Like i am saying i found they were crossed at the connetor going to the distributor, Now they lead to the firewall... Whats the designation?.....And am i really going to have to check the area at the ecu. What if the problem is at the ffire wall connector? probablty is im just not sure definatly becasue the locations i do not know. That would probably eliminate the problem. i have had NO other codes fire at all in the past year have had the code 9 for a year now.

Havent had anyone to take it to who knows the systems or does the type of work. I have been doing it all my self and taking suggestions here.

My engine was like brand new when i got it. I dont know about another Rebuild?

 

Words B&M used are as follows " " We added a high flow exhaust that increases airflow 10%. What pressure should the system be set to"?

F1= 270cc/min
F2= 297 cc/min (270+10%) 0.10 X 270 gives you value of 297. something like 27 increase
P1= 43 psi
P2= 52 psi

43 X (297/270)^2

Does everyone follow? How could i possibly be mistake or wrong.

Am i missing something?

 

you said the engine is 20 years old, and like new when you got it?? i know the top end has been built, but what do you know about the block?
has the car ever run correctly in this configuration, or has there always been issues?