Rotating my tires and found this, wtf?
what exactly did u find..i see the normal rusted hub from normal wear and tear..
and i see the normal axle nut that is smashed where it should be in that slot.
and i see the normal axle nut that is smashed where it should be in that slot.
Ok, that's what I was referring to. The axle nut is supposed to be smashed into that little slot?
It looks like the axle has been removed and was not replaced. Did you pull the axle for any reason? I had new axle nuts when I did my swap but I've heard you can get by re-using the axle nut once, no more than that.
Well... my clutch, tranny casing was replaced. Is it necessary to remove the axles? Should I do something about this?
But you know what's funny, when I'm driving fast and I stop hard... something in the front suspension makes a loud "CLUNK" noise. Like metal hitting metal, I'm wondering if this is related, think it's time to take it to Acura for a road test?
But you know what's funny, when I'm driving fast and I stop hard... something in the front suspension makes a loud "CLUNK" noise. Like metal hitting metal, I'm wondering if this is related, think it's time to take it to Acura for a road test?
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Well... my clutch, tranny casing was replaced. Is it necessary to remove the axles? Should I do something about this?
But you know what's funny, when I'm driving fast and I stop hard... something in the front suspension makes a loud "CLUNK" noise. Like metal hitting metal, I'm wondering if this is related, think it's time to take it to Acura for a road test?
But you know what's funny, when I'm driving fast and I stop hard... something in the front suspension makes a loud "CLUNK" noise. Like metal hitting metal, I'm wondering if this is related, think it's time to take it to Acura for a road test?
"Yes, usually they should remove the axles when replacing the clutch as they have to drop the transmission."
but not in that manor, just remove the cotter pin and then king nut and separate the lower from the hub. No need to take that nut off for pulling a tranny
but not in that manor, just remove the cotter pin and then king nut and separate the lower from the hub. No need to take that nut off for pulling a tranny
I'm sure everything is fine and that your clunking sound is unrelated. For piece of mind retorque the axle nut to 140ftlbs. It's a 32mm socket.
[QUOTEbut not in that manor, just remove the cotter pin and then king nut and separate the lower from the hub. No need to take that nut off for pulling a tranny[/QUOTE]

oh, and I reuse axle nuts all the time.

oh, and I reuse axle nuts all the time.
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
I removed my axle when I swapped out my alternator, but I did not replace the axle nut. I just torqued to 140 and re-staked the nut.
you must remove drivers axel to get alternator out.....on cars with Bseries engines....i have tried every possible thing....is there any way to remove alt without taking out axel??
Hey, what's up skafia?
I wouldn't sweat it at all. Like everyone has been saying, it looks like the nut was removed once and then put back on and dinked at the slot to keep it from backing off. It is recommended that this nut be be replaced if it is ever removed but as long as it is torqued to the correct specs it should be fine.
I've got a torque wrench and the correct socket. Hit me up if you want to verify that you are at 140 lb ft.
- J
I wouldn't sweat it at all. Like everyone has been saying, it looks like the nut was removed once and then put back on and dinked at the slot to keep it from backing off. It is recommended that this nut be be replaced if it is ever removed but as long as it is torqued to the correct specs it should be fine.
I've got a torque wrench and the correct socket. Hit me up if you want to verify that you are at 140 lb ft.
- J
hehe what up John. Alright man, maybe we'll do that, just to be on the safe side, you never know. One day the power of the R might break my axles or somethin'.
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