93 Timing Belt
Ok, so a couple questions on timing belt installation for my 93 accord.
A couple weeks ago i installed a timing belt on my accord, ran perfectly for 130 miles and then it slipped. pulled the cover off and it was looser than anything so it had obviously jumped teeth.
$400 in a new valve job and three weeks later i have it all back together and its running pretty smoothly, it still needs a little work with valve clearance and timing. i want to make sure i did it right this time; im blaming the failure on the tensioner last time.
Last setup: put the large bolt that holds on the tensioners on the OUTSIDE of the plastic cover and took off the bolt on the arm of the inner tensioner. the tensioners were being held in place purely by the bolt on the outside of the cover and were relying on the spring to hold it tight
This setup: kept the bolt on the arm of the inner tensioner ON this time and put the large bolt that holds both tensioners on INSIDE the plastic cover. we rotated the engine around atleast six times and then followed the directions on turning it 3 teeth past tdc and then putting on the bolts after the tensioner adjusted itself.
is this setup correct? thanks for any pointers, i need to get it right this time since i really don't want to do the valves all again.
A couple weeks ago i installed a timing belt on my accord, ran perfectly for 130 miles and then it slipped. pulled the cover off and it was looser than anything so it had obviously jumped teeth.
$400 in a new valve job and three weeks later i have it all back together and its running pretty smoothly, it still needs a little work with valve clearance and timing. i want to make sure i did it right this time; im blaming the failure on the tensioner last time.
Last setup: put the large bolt that holds on the tensioners on the OUTSIDE of the plastic cover and took off the bolt on the arm of the inner tensioner. the tensioners were being held in place purely by the bolt on the outside of the cover and were relying on the spring to hold it tight
This setup: kept the bolt on the arm of the inner tensioner ON this time and put the large bolt that holds both tensioners on INSIDE the plastic cover. we rotated the engine around atleast six times and then followed the directions on turning it 3 teeth past tdc and then putting on the bolts after the tensioner adjusted itself.
is this setup correct? thanks for any pointers, i need to get it right this time since i really don't want to do the valves all again.
If I'm understanding you correctly, no, this isn't correct.
The small bolt that holds the timing belt tensioner in place after the timing belt is installed and tensioned is only used during install of the balancer shaft belt. If you leave that small bolt in there you'll have no way to tension the belt later without fully removing the side covers.
The springs job isn't to hold the timing belts tension during operation, it's only there to set the proper tension. The bolt that passes through both tensioners is there to hold the proper tension on the belts during operation. That bolt is accessible through the lower cover, it doesn't actually sit above or below really. There is a hole through the lower cover that you can get it to. It is like that so you can later adjust the tension of the belts without removing everything.
If you'd like to see a step-by-step on how to do all this see my write-up in that is liked in the FAQ sticky
The small bolt that holds the timing belt tensioner in place after the timing belt is installed and tensioned is only used during install of the balancer shaft belt. If you leave that small bolt in there you'll have no way to tension the belt later without fully removing the side covers.
The springs job isn't to hold the timing belts tension during operation, it's only there to set the proper tension. The bolt that passes through both tensioners is there to hold the proper tension on the belts during operation. That bolt is accessible through the lower cover, it doesn't actually sit above or below really. There is a hole through the lower cover that you can get it to. It is like that so you can later adjust the tension of the belts without removing everything.
If you'd like to see a step-by-step on how to do all this see my write-up in that is liked in the FAQ sticky
Sorry to hear about the $400 valve job you had to do. Just happened to me on a BMW I got, the timing chain broke and now I have to replace the bent valves, it sucks when that happens. I feel your pain.
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MC Slide Hammer
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Mar 23, 2011 02:25 PM




