94 accord ex control arm problem
when i bought my car from the original owner, he had put new front control arms in, and now getting an alinement just yesterday, they said they couldnt do it bc someone has put the control arms on the wrong sides
.....so now stuck here asking anyon if they have replaced their control arms before and was it difficult in anyway?? bc when i do it, its going to be hovering around 0 degrees here in minnesota haha
thanks
.....so now stuck here asking anyon if they have replaced their control arms before and was it difficult in anyway?? bc when i do it, its going to be hovering around 0 degrees here in minnesota hahathanks
wow, that thing must have been eating tires...nothing to it. I supervised my 17 year old this fall in changing them on my 95 EX...he had a bit of experience before, doing them on his 3rd gen...that is more complicated than these, pressing bushings in, shaft, ect....take your time (get them on the correct side.lol) and tighten to spec and your good to go.
yea it chewed the hell out of my blizzek snow tires and ive only got about 3500miles on them haha...so theyre pretty easy i take it alright sonds good, now just gotta wait for the temp to rise outside haha
They are really easy to replace.
Start with the 14mm (I think) nut where the UCA and the knuckle meet. You need to take off the 10mm bolt cap to get to it. You also need to remove the cotter pin. If you cant, sometime I cut both ends with tin snips and just loosen the bolt (breaking the cotter pin). You just have to remember to get the old cotter pin guts out of the ball joint bolt and replace it with a new cotter pin.
Then once that 14mm castle nut is off, you need to hit the side of the knuckle with a hammer or something heavy to break the connection between the knuckle and the UCA/ball joint.
Now that the UCA is no longer connected to the knuckle, remove the two
19 or 21mm nuts at the top (cant remember).
Now it should come right out.
Start with the 14mm (I think) nut where the UCA and the knuckle meet. You need to take off the 10mm bolt cap to get to it. You also need to remove the cotter pin. If you cant, sometime I cut both ends with tin snips and just loosen the bolt (breaking the cotter pin). You just have to remember to get the old cotter pin guts out of the ball joint bolt and replace it with a new cotter pin.
Then once that 14mm castle nut is off, you need to hit the side of the knuckle with a hammer or something heavy to break the connection between the knuckle and the UCA/ball joint.
Now that the UCA is no longer connected to the knuckle, remove the two
19 or 21mm nuts at the top (cant remember).
Now it should come right out.
I didn't think the 5th gen's had the cap around the ball joint nut...if so mine got lost years ago (let me know if they are there as I need to find new ones, I thought it was odd they weren't there)....my 3rd gen's have it.....also not to pick (so please don't flame me), 17mm on the two nuts, under the hood, holding the arm.
The right/pass will take about 5 min longer because of the fuse blocks...have a piece of string or something, when you get the ball joint out of the knuckle it will want to "wonder" around-use the string to keep it somewhat in place.
The right/pass will take about 5 min longer because of the fuse blocks...have a piece of string or something, when you get the ball joint out of the knuckle it will want to "wonder" around-use the string to keep it somewhat in place.
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