Suspension Question
Ok, on my '98 I'm currently running Skunk 2 springs with stock struts and I'm wanting to up grade. I am about 95% stuck on the Buddyclub n+ coilovers. Has anybody used these on there ITR. Likes and Dislikes on them. Trying to stay around 700-800 range. Thanks
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They're decent. Ground controls and konis might be a good choice also. Same price range. I'm guessing your goal is to just lower the car?
im running koni yellows currently w/ neuspeed race drops...
theyre pretty good for daily and spirited drives.
some might find the dampening not firm enough for tracking..
theyre pretty good for daily and spirited drives.
some might find the dampening not firm enough for tracking..
Buddy Club n+ is NOT better than a Ground Control/Koni Yellow setup.
Racing Spec you could make an argument, but absolutely not the n+.
n+ is a budget coilover that sells for around $1000. You get what you pay for, basically. Heck, without upper mount, they can be had for $650. Other coilovers in this pricerange: Megan, cheap crap on ebay, etc.
Racing Spec you could make an argument, but absolutely not the n+.
n+ is a budget coilover that sells for around $1000. You get what you pay for, basically. Heck, without upper mount, they can be had for $650. Other coilovers in this pricerange: Megan, cheap crap on ebay, etc.
Last edited by Todd00; Jan 14, 2011 at 07:32 AM.
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Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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Usually it seems like pre assembled budget coilovers have pretty generic spring rates and damping curves for pretty generic uses.
Just like most things, custom assembled stuff is usually better for your specific purpose...but only if you actually know what you're doing.
Buddy club n+'s are a good entry level pre assembled coilover. They do "everything well" but don't do anything exceptionally well.
The nice thing about gc/konis is the ability to pick a range of spring rates which can be matched to the damping. The dampers can also be revalved for more customization. But that only works for people who know what they're doing.
You can also pick out "common" spring rates or ground control standard spring rates to mke it simpler.
Koni dampers have a lifetime warranty and arguably better quality than the buddy club n+ dampers.
Just like most things, custom assembled stuff is usually better for your specific purpose...but only if you actually know what you're doing.
Buddy club n+'s are a good entry level pre assembled coilover. They do "everything well" but don't do anything exceptionally well.
The nice thing about gc/konis is the ability to pick a range of spring rates which can be matched to the damping. The dampers can also be revalved for more customization. But that only works for people who know what they're doing.
You can also pick out "common" spring rates or ground control standard spring rates to mke it simpler.
Koni dampers have a lifetime warranty and arguably better quality than the buddy club n+ dampers.
Do yourself a favour and don't go by what everyone else "likes."
Do some research, make goals for yourself, and make an educated decision yourself.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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It's difficult to make an educated decision on something you haven't been educated on. The OP never said he was gonna track every weekend. A track suspension isn't always the best choice for the street either. So taking the opinion of someone who tracks their car every weekend is a little worthless.
Anyway, OP, try looking up the spring rate data atleast on the n+. Post it up and we can try to see where that puts you. Spring rates are the fundemental thing used to predict the balance of a suspension.
Anyway, OP, try looking up the spring rate data atleast on the n+. Post it up and we can try to see where that puts you. Spring rates are the fundemental thing used to predict the balance of a suspension.
i'm waiting for a response with you jerz because im gonna be upgrading my suspension from tokico illuminas w/ s2 coilovers. the setup was pretty rough but did well thru turns, i want to go full coilovers but i also am not tryna spend more than about $700 bucks, this has been a helpful thread as well. The car will b a dd and autox mayb twice a month, thnxguys in advance
ok so for what I am wanting to do with the car what spring rate would some of you recommend. Once again this is just a leaser car to me so I do do some regular driving, spirit driving thru the mnt., and possible some track in the future.
I hate having to steer people the wrong path, however given your knowledge in the matter chances are that you will not notice a difference nor will come near to exhaust the capability of a a set of Buddy Club N+ vs any other type of track ready coilovers. If budget is an issue, then I can easily tell you that a set of Buddy Club N+ are way much better than what you have right now, so just get them, or look at other alternatives within your price range. In the end is your decision, don't let anyone else tell you what you should get, get what you are comfortable and confident with.
koni/gc is the no brainer answer for $800
just pick out the rates you want
your intended use for the car, driving preference and tires used will help a lot with rate selection.
if it's an autocross car bias the rear 50lbs, if it's a street car bias the front 50lbs
if you use sticky street tires the 450-500 range is a good place to go
if you use hard sport tires around 350-400 work
all seasons are in the 350 zone
for example i use the yoke ado8 on a mostly street car that gets autocrossed about 2x a year. i'm at 500/450 rates.
why those aren't changed around is the street part. when it's raining, snowing or you have bad roads a rear bias car is not only slower on the street, it's harder to control. on an autocross course the rear bias helps prevent throttle induced understeer and helps with rotation
just pick out the rates you want
your intended use for the car, driving preference and tires used will help a lot with rate selection.
if it's an autocross car bias the rear 50lbs, if it's a street car bias the front 50lbs
if you use sticky street tires the 450-500 range is a good place to go
if you use hard sport tires around 350-400 work
all seasons are in the 350 zone
for example i use the yoke ado8 on a mostly street car that gets autocrossed about 2x a year. i'm at 500/450 rates.
why those aren't changed around is the street part. when it's raining, snowing or you have bad roads a rear bias car is not only slower on the street, it's harder to control. on an autocross course the rear bias helps prevent throttle induced understeer and helps with rotation
The shock valving on the n+ coilovers are crap. And knowing Buddy Club, something will probably sieze/leak in a year or so.
My suggestion is to save your money and do it correctly, or just purchase a good set of shocks (like Koni Yellows) and run them with your current springs. Although I don't have much faith in Skunk 2 springs, either.
koni/gc is the no brainer answer for $800
just pick out the rates you want
your intended use for the car, driving preference and tires used will help a lot with rate selection.
if it's an autocross car bias the rear 50lbs, if it's a street car bias the front 50lbs
if you use sticky street tires the 450-500 range is a good place to go
if you use hard sport tires around 350-400 work
all seasons are in the 350 zone
for example i use the yoke ado8 on a mostly street car that gets autocrossed about 2x a year. i'm at 500/450 rates.
why those aren't changed around is the street part. when it's raining, snowing or you have bad roads a rear bias car is not only slower on the street, it's harder to control. on an autocross course the rear bias helps prevent throttle induced understeer and helps with rotation
just pick out the rates you want
your intended use for the car, driving preference and tires used will help a lot with rate selection.
if it's an autocross car bias the rear 50lbs, if it's a street car bias the front 50lbs
if you use sticky street tires the 450-500 range is a good place to go
if you use hard sport tires around 350-400 work
all seasons are in the 350 zone
for example i use the yoke ado8 on a mostly street car that gets autocrossed about 2x a year. i'm at 500/450 rates.
why those aren't changed around is the street part. when it's raining, snowing or you have bad roads a rear bias car is not only slower on the street, it's harder to control. on an autocross course the rear bias helps prevent throttle induced understeer and helps with rotation
BUmp for some great info and for someone taking the time to explain it to the rest of us
Okay, when it comes to racing, you cannot simply pick a spring rate and be done. Racing involves tuning and tuning involves trying various things. Therefore, be prepared to try several spring rates when it comes time to race...That is if you want to be competitive. If your just gonna drive around a race-track, that's another story. Going with other peoples experience and recommendations is probably best. If your not going to tracking the car, then off-the-shelf rates will make you more than happy on the street no matter what ride height you pick (especially with Ground Control).
BTW: I'm not really feeling the comment about "matching damping with spring rates". The two are not as closely connected as this suggests. There is no magic rate that works for a given spring. This is why sport dampers are made adjustable in the first place. They can be tuned to someone's personal tastes via street/track conditions or even lap times. It's kinda like telling someone how much salt they like on their food...
Springs support the chassis while dampers control it's movement (as well as the wheel).
BTW: I'm not really feeling the comment about "matching damping with spring rates". The two are not as closely connected as this suggests. There is no magic rate that works for a given spring. This is why sport dampers are made adjustable in the first place. They can be tuned to someone's personal tastes via street/track conditions or even lap times. It's kinda like telling someone how much salt they like on their food...

Springs support the chassis while dampers control it's movement (as well as the wheel).
^^^This makes since to me being as I've never tracked my car and really have no intention to. I'd believe compared to stock most any OTS coil over damper kit will work great for street use and give some room to adjust to your own liking. Tein, Skunk2, PIC, Progressive, Buddy Club, etc.





