now that i have my daily driver back, i am planning on re-doing my turbo hatch. the 99 gsr is all stock from top to bottom now tuned on 9lbs, and im going to be pulling the head and intalling new headgasket w/p timing belt, and arp headstuds first, i am shooting for 375whp+ on 14lbs on my sc61 and am wondering when i have the motor apart, is there any other things i need to address before i go back together, i know it would be good to do rods, but i need to know would arp rod bolts be a good idea, or should i just go ahead and do a full re-build with new bearings, im not sure on the mileage on the motor, i just would really like to see my motor hold up to this much hp, and dont know what the really weak points of a gsr are

 

ringlands.

 

your tires will go first lol

 

if it were me i would do a rod/piston combo just for thar assurance, but if its all good now there is no reason to really

 

You beat me too it!

 

As previously stated, the ringlands will most likely be the first to go; however, there have been several stock block GSRs over the 400whp mark with a proper tune. If you have access to E85 in your area, you may be able to hit your goal without tearing into the engine. Speak with your tuner and see what he is comfortable with...

 

so with the ringlands being first to replace, would you suggest puting new oem pistons and rings in and having the block bored, or just hone the block and put new rings in the oem pistons? where are people getting a good deal on piston/rod combos?

 

taking it apart to put oem pistons back in is just a dumb idea.

 

taking it apart to replace oem pistons to replace some jacked up pistons isnt that bad of an idea actually if a quick fix is needed.

 

Your head studs will stretch first.. Gsr can run more than 14 psi.

 

i suppose since people say that a stock gsr is good till about 400whp then i will keep the motor stock, i do plan on installing arp headstuds and then having a new tune done on 14psi. i gutted the whole car except the dash and am going to be starting the tedious process of stripping, cleaning and painting the whole interior body semi gloss black since the car was origonaly white and the and outside is phantom grey

 

Not if they're ARP's torqued to spec and broken in properly.

Any Honda can run more than 14 PSI, provided a supporting map sensor is added that reads more than 10.6 PSI. Longevity all just depends on the power output and tune.

 

Leave the headgasket/headstuds alone.
Don't open the motor up. There is no point.

The stock head studs are not as weak as people claim on a bseries.

It's all about TUNING. If there is no detonation, the engine will last.
Run the proper octane fuel for the amount of power you are trying to make. Use engine management that doesn't suck such as hondata & the engine will last.

The weakest part of the engine are the cast piston ringlands, if they see any detonation they will fail.

 

huh, do you think the head bolts will hold up to 14psi, im shooting for 375+whp on 14lbs, i have all the supporting mods, and i am tuned on s300, if this is the case and the headbolts arent weak i would love to not mess with the motor yet.

 

The stock head studs are not as weak as people claim on a bseries

many people go out and buy a bunch of stuff they do not need when they start a build, and forget that many of the veterans on this site praise OEM stuff.

for peace of mind yes better head bolts would be nice, but thats all in your decision to make

 

Don't touch the motor, you will be fine if the tune is good.

Then again, if the tune isn't good your block could be bulletproof and you'd still probably lose it anyway.

 

well t1 will be doing the tune, i havnt set the date yet, i was going to re-tune late last year but was running into idling issues so had to cancel the tune date

 

I wouldn't worry about the engine if Tony is tuning it.

 

i had 250k miles on my gsr when i went turbo...i cracked a sleeve from detonation but the pistons were mint...so oem pistons are stronger than people think...also on stock headbolts and headgasket...so dont open it..do a compression and leakdown test adjust your valves and get it tune...my compression was 200 accross all 4...

 

Tires then ringlands lol if you have good tune you should be good

 

have n fear T1 is going to let you know off your base pull and probly a few pulls after that what he thinks your car is going to handle. if he see's any issues he is going to let ya know that, and probly suggest you stop at that point.

one of the best tuners there is