Just ordered my b18c type R 98' complete swap
So I just ordered B18c5 type r ('98) complete swap...from Osaka Jdm motors. I paid $3200 shipped. I also ordered a b18c gsr longblock($1300) for a friend. We shared the shipping cost. I also bought a 10,000rpm cluster. Total cost was $3600 to my door. What should I expect? What should I ask for when I sell the tranny,ecm,and injectors. I'm using my hondata 300 ecm,bigger injectors and a b18b tranny(for short track racing).
Last edited by bcp7272; Jan 10, 2011 at 06:52 PM.
Chances are you're getting a B18C JDM ITR motor (since I highly doubt any importers or exporters for that matter would ship a USDM ITR motor out of or into the USA). The ecu is worth about a hundred dollars, tranny with no grinds 900 (maybe a 1000, but depends on condition and what a buyers willing to pay), and the injectors are worth about 50 bux, give or take. I would truely keep the ITR tranny for track racing and unless the b18b has LSD I wouldn't bother using it (why do u need longer gears for an NA engine setup?) or do u plan on boosting the 11:1 compression motor?
I need the longer gears to stay in second. Its a short track. I currently won the fwd championship with a 1990 tegra b18b w/ a low compression motor(worn rings). This year I'm moving up to the mini-stock division(4cyl mustangs). But this track believes that fwd is the future mini-stock so I will be the test mule. Oh forgot to mention that I will be using a phantom grip w/ the upgraded springs....I know most people say they are junk but on clay the work really well...and it doesn't hurt that no-one can tell you have one installed in a stock-class.
So I just ordered B18c5 type r ('98) complete swap...from Osaka Jdm motors. I paid $3200 shipped. I also ordered a b18c gsr longblock($1300) for a friend. We shared the shipping cost. I also bought a 10,000rpm cluster. Total cost was $3600 to my door. What should I expect? What should I ask for when I sell the tranny,ecm,and injectors. I'm using my hondata 300 ecm,bigger injectors and a b18b tranny(for short track racing).
Why are you running larger injectors? Are you building the engine or leaving it stock? A stock ITR engine should be fine on the stock injectors and a good fuel pump...
Best of luck with your next racing season, sounds like a ton of fun!
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What you should expect??? Be very careful when ordering stuff from the JDM shops in Montreal! Trust me I know of and have read many horror stories!!! I hope everything comes to you in tip top shape bud!!!
you're going to have to bring vtec in earlier to make that LS tranny work. also the 240cc injectors are perfect for that engine stock. hondata actually has a great ITR map you could probably install on your s300. that engine in stock form has a nearly perfected tune since so many people have played with it. in fact hondata has a chart on their website on this exact engine and a remap. brought up the mid range quite a bit. honda went light on the timing under 3500 probably to reduce the chance of detonation with bad gas
For the tranny if in good condition you should be able to get top dollar for it being ITR w/LSD $1000 maybe???
Why are you running larger injectors? Are you building the engine or leaving it stock? A stock ITR engine should be fine on the stock injectors and a good fuel pump...
Best of luck with your next racing season, sounds like a ton of fun!
Why are you running larger injectors? Are you building the engine or leaving it stock? A stock ITR engine should be fine on the stock injectors and a good fuel pump...
Best of luck with your next racing season, sounds like a ton of fun!
you're going to have to bring vtec in earlier to make that LS tranny work. also the 240cc injectors are perfect for that engine stock. hondata actually has a great ITR map you could probably install on your s300. that engine in stock form has a nearly perfected tune since so many people have played with it. in fact hondata has a chart on their website on this exact engine and a remap. brought up the mid range quite a bit. honda went light on the timing under 3500 probably to reduce the chance of detonation with bad gas
highly doubt your getting a 98 b18c5. i'm almost positive they didn't make that motor in 98. your porbably getting the b18c jdm itr motor. just my 2cents
Just received my motor today. How about give me a run down on what I'm looking for. All I know is it has an exhaust manifold(no header). And it has a faded green mark beside the distributor,so its probably not a low mileage unit. It does have a chrome oil cap and red valve cover.LOL Oh and they included the worn out,busted boot cv axles and ripped motor mounts. Hey but the shifter linkage looked alright.
If the exhaust manifold is cast iron its a 96 spec. Which comes with the 4.4 tranny. 98 spec had the 4-1 header. . The green mark indicates its an ITR head. Chrome oil cap and red VC are factory stuff. Not much else to tell ya.
Even the 4-1 98 spec header is covered in heat sheilds.
Here is a pic of a 98 spec header heat sheild:

Here is a pic of a 96 spec:
Here is a pic of a 98 spec header heat sheild:

Here is a pic of a 96 spec:
Theres really no point. Its either 95,96,97. And all those years are the same motor. Its rated at 200 hp. Have you done any research at all before you bought this?
My only research was to my local machine shop that is know for building honda motors. I asked about B18b/vtec motors and installing cams in a gsr motor. I told him it was for round track racing and he advised me to just get the type r motor. He said it would last longer under hard racing conditions.
Why is it when someone ask a simple question that has a simple answer someone has to be a Smartazz? I Just would like to know what I have just in case I have to go through tech at my local track. Most motors have a serial number or a date of manufacture. Thanks
If I was spending $3500 I would want to know exactly what I was getting.
I've seen this stamp on my bluetop H23V, and I'm just assuming the B series is the same way. Keep in mind that this is only the month and year of when the head and/or engine was manufactured. One built in early '96 for example, would probably make it's way into a '96 R. One built later in the year might go into an early '97 model.
As far as I know, this isn't the best way to determine the engine year, but it is a start.






