My '94 Civic VX overheated once while doing some stop 'n go driving due to low coolant in the radiator. I stopped it immediately, let it cool down for 15 minutes, then drove it home (approx. 2 miles). When I got home, I threw fresh coolant in the radiator and the overheating problem ceased. I didn't drive again it until the next day and it had trouble starting. The engine cranks, but takes FOREVER to fire. I have to crank it for a 10 or more seconds and apply gas for it to finally spark up. The engine being warm or cold doesn't make a difference either. Would the car overheating once affect any of the ignition or fuel system to the point where it would have trouble starting? I'm going to be doing a tune-up in the next week or two, so I wanna make sure I cover all bases... cuz this baby is my daily driver and I can't go without it for more than a day or so.

Note: Car is completely stock Federal VX. Feel free to ask me anything if I left any good details out. Thanks HT!

 

Did it just start to run warm when you caught it, or fully overheat? Did the problem happen after you let it cool down the first time, or after filling with coolant?

I'd do a compression test first off.

 

X2

 

It got pretty damn hot. Touched the redline on the temp gauge, but once it touched, I pulled over to let it cool immediately. The ignition problem started after it overheated the first time. I was under the impression that the engine doesn't start when it's too hot.

 

Yep, headgasket is probably blown after being overheated like that. Coolant in the combustion chamber will cause hard starting.

 

****. I'm hoping not. If only I just kept up with the coolant levels, no overheat. Guess I'll find out. Still open to third and fourth opinions though. Thanks again, guys!


EDIT: Does it matter that when it is started up, it doesn't run horribly? Idle is smooth and runs just fine after it starts.

 

up... HELP

 

Any CEL codes?

Does the fuel pump fail to prime when the engine has difficulty starting?

Have you inspected the spark plugs?

When it won't start, have you checked the quality of the spark? Is it bright white?

What is the condition of the cap and rotor?

 

No CEL codes.

Fuel pump DOES prime every time, whether it has trouble starting or not.

Plugs are pretty dirty, but started fine with the same plugs before overheat. I bought a new set and i'm gonna be replacing them when I tune my car up in the next week or two.

Cap/rotor are in pretty good shape, but I'll be changing those too when I do the tune up.

 

If its an issue of over heated and you did blow a head gasket , water does ot compress so if you have water in your cylinders you will have trouble starting your car. if you over heated you could. do these


-foul your spark plugs
-blow head gasket
-warp head (sometimes block)
- blow up radiator
- warp cylinder walls (extreme heat causing deformity of the perfect circle) also messes with rings

 

Did the compression test on Friday and I came up with pretty solid compression...
cyl. 1 - 145
cyl. 2 - 140
cyl. 3 - 135
cyl. 4 - 145

I didn't see any coolant in my oil or oil in my coolant, so I'm assuming there's nothing wrong with my head, gasket, or block. The plugs looked pretty clean for their mileage too, but will be replaced soon anyway.

I'm open for any other suggestions. I'm just trying to find the time to do my tune-up to see if it might be something simple, like a bad cap/rotor or worn plugs/wires. Thanks!

 

I blew the side out of a heater core hose and i overheated my car once it did hit the hot line once and i pulled over to cool it off but i never had a problem starting it back up. im still riding ti with no problems. have u tried putting gas or starting fluid down the throttle body to see if it will start? have u checked to see if its getting fuel or spark? have u checked ur grounds or fuses? id check all ur fuses and stuff before getting too into it.

 

Again, what is the spark quality at the plugs?

 

is it possible he damaged an igniter coil or something in the dizzy from the excessive heat??

 

I'll check them today after work. What should the spark look like?

 

http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=74362

 

 

I'm gonna go ahead and try this. I don't think it applies to me, though. I just replaced my distributor with a new DK and it still struggled to start after a bunch of cranks, but it did eventually fire, so i know it's not the coil or distributor.

The OTHER outcome can't apply either because I'm getting it to start, so there's definitely spark. If i understood it incorrectly, please do correct me. I'm going to be trying the spark check after I get out of work though.

Thanks again for all of the helpful replies!

 

The question is whether spark at the plugs is bright white (versus weak) during the initial cranking period when the engine won't start.

Likewise, does the fuel pump prime immediately when the key is turned from off to ON(II)?

And do the fuel injectors spray fuel during the initial cranking period when the engine won't start.

 

Aren't those low for compression numbers? I don't have my service manual handy, but I thought 135 was the minimum listed...

 

It's not so much high or low that matters, but how close they are. Personally I think 145 next to 135 should be a bit of a red flag.

 

How easy does it turn over, when you crank it does it turn over like it did before it over heated? or is it slower?

 

Mine heated up once due to a faulty thermostat and never even touched the red. It only went to 7/8 before I noticed it and put on the heater and it went down.

I pulled over and changed the thermostat and it ran cool but then it started blowing coolant out the radiator and I got one of those testers at Napa ($50) and sure enough there was exhaust gas in my radiator.

I ended up replacing the engine. Haven't torn down the old one yet.

Get the tester at Napa and see if you are getting any exhaust in the radiator. It's called a block tester.

 

It cranks strong. Same as before the overheat.

I was thinking the same thing about 135 next to 145 (being a red flag), but it's less than a 10% discrepancy, so I figured I was safe. Wouldn't the compression test basically assure me that there's nothing wrong with my cylinder head/block? Meaning nothing's leaking (exhaust, coolant, oil)?

 

have u ever tried a leakdown test?
Checked your initial fuel pressure?
Check your lines to see if you are getting vapor lock as well. It wouldnt hurt to try.
Good luck!