oem piston rings placement and gap help!!
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Manteca, 209 ...THE TOWN BRUH!!
Well im gettin ready to put together my motor and can't seem to get a definite answer after searching! I'm using oem jdm type r os .25 pistons with oem os .25 piston rings in my b18c5. Does any one know what the rings should be gapped at or should i leave them alone, because i also heard they come gapped from factory? Another question is what is the stock honda placement of the piston rings? I'm tired of building motors that always burn oil, so i just want to get it right this time
thanks
thanks
Ive never had to set the gap on the rings unless they are file fit rings which are a type of racing rings. So if you have the correct replacement rings then you dont have to set the gap. And as for ring placement ive always done this. Holding the piston in your hand with the piston pin paralell to your body as your lookong down at the top of the piston and the notch or arrow in the top of the piston pointing away from you alighn the oil ring tentioner at 12 o'clock and the top and bottom parts of the oil rind place the bottom one at 8 o'clock and the top one at 4 o'clock. then place the 2nd ring at 9 o'clock and the top ring at 3 o'clock. Im 34yrs old and been building engines sence i was 14 and have yet to have an engine to burn oil doing it this way. how do you break you engine in?
I allways check the gaps on the rings. OEM or aftermarket no matter what. Depending on the bore you have and they type of driving you are going to do a ring gap can be anywhere between .016"-.020" for the most stuff that we do.
Take the bore of the block in inches and multiply by .0055" that will give you the ring gap for a drag race motor. Tighter ring gap on a street motor multiply by .0050".
So for a 81mm bore = 3.189" x .0050 = .0159" ring gap on a street motor.
For a 84mm bore = 3.307" x .0055 = .0181" ring gap for a drag race motor.
Stefan
PS: these are all motor ring gaps. Turbo/supercharger/nitrous cars will have bigger ring gaps due to more heat being generated.
Take the bore of the block in inches and multiply by .0055" that will give you the ring gap for a drag race motor. Tighter ring gap on a street motor multiply by .0050".
So for a 81mm bore = 3.189" x .0050 = .0159" ring gap on a street motor.
For a 84mm bore = 3.307" x .0055 = .0181" ring gap for a drag race motor.
Stefan
PS: these are all motor ring gaps. Turbo/supercharger/nitrous cars will have bigger ring gaps due to more heat being generated.
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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,531
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From: Manteca, 209 ...THE TOWN BRUH!!
I allways check the gaps on the rings. OEM or aftermarket no matter what. Depending on the bore you have and they type of driving you are going to do a ring gap can be anywhere between .016"-.020" for the most stuff that we do.
Take the bore of the block in inches and multiply by .0055" that will give you the ring gap for a drag race motor. Tighter ring gap on a street motor multiply by .0050".
So for a 81mm bore = 3.189" x .0050 = .0159" ring gap on a street motor.
For a 84mm bore = 3.307" x .0055 = .0181" ring gap for a drag race motor.
Stefan
PS: these are all motor ring gaps. Turbo/supercharger/nitrous cars will have bigger ring gaps due to more heat being generated.
Take the bore of the block in inches and multiply by .0055" that will give you the ring gap for a drag race motor. Tighter ring gap on a street motor multiply by .0050".
So for a 81mm bore = 3.189" x .0050 = .0159" ring gap on a street motor.
For a 84mm bore = 3.307" x .0055 = .0181" ring gap for a drag race motor.
Stefan
PS: these are all motor ring gaps. Turbo/supercharger/nitrous cars will have bigger ring gaps due to more heat being generated.
so does this apply for the top, bottom, and the oil rings?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Manteca, 209 ...THE TOWN BRUH!!
If you're tired of burning oil, make sure your cylinders are properly prepped and completely dry when you install the pistons. Good break-in on non-synthetic oil and you're good to go.
I would have thought so too. But lube can prevent the ringed from cutting a seat properly. I've made this mistake before. I would also call your local machine shop and ask them what is proper honing procedure. Using a honing device on a drill is not recommended.
A light coating or wd40 or mmo is a good idea on the pistons/ bores and ring compressor to ease installation. It will burn off very quickly and allow the rings to seat. I wouldn't install them dry.
I dunno, I've had a motor smoke like a freight train after fresh bore because my cylinders were wet and I know other people who've experienced the same thing. If you do use lube, it better be pretty light. It can be easy to go crazy with a spray can.
Bah, there are lots of possible reasons that your engine smoked. Ive used everything from oil, atf, mmo, wd40, pb blaster etc without issue. As long as you don't have a pool of it on top of your pistons its fine. Installing rings without lube is a bad idea in general. Never heard of any engine builders that I trust installing them without it.





