1997 Del Sol Si - Engine / Cooling repairs


Picked it up last spring and it's been amazing to me but due to an insane work schedule which is just now slowing down I've procrastinated a list of issues. Those dents are being stubborn and popping them hasn't worked with traditional means.
Having cooling issues (thermostat woes?) which has never happened to me on a vehicle before so I'm completely unprepared. The temperature gauge reads absolutely nothing with or without the heat on (snowy here), whether I've been driving for two minutes or two hours. Very rarely it will come up maybe 1/8 of the way. I bought a new thermostat which has yet to be installed, we'll see if that fixes it. Coolant level seems OK.

Don't be fooled by the odometer it's at 250k+ miles.
Another thing is that the brake light never shuts off! It started sporadically coming on and eventually just stayed on. I took apart the center console and messed with the switch for the emergency brake and that doesn't seem to be the culprit so maybe ... low brake fluid warning? My brakes have been fine.
Now for the doozy, the engine!
not 56k friendly engine picture:http://oi51.tinypic.com/35243fq.jpg
The first thing you will notice is the trashy application of Gorilla tape over two busted valve cover bolts. They are broken off deep in there and my first Tap-out job on my own engine is terrifying. Unfortunately it seems there is not a mechanic in the area who wants to do it so I guess it's all me, there is zero oil leakage even without the tape (how I hate having it there though).
Exhaust manifold has a crack which is not visible but definitely there, you can hear it when reversing and fumes come in when the blower is turned up. Trying to find a good deal on a new one online but it's hard to judge exactly where to get one that both doesn't suck and is fairly priced.
Washing the whole engine bay would be ideal but I can't help but worry about messing something up in the process.
So that's it. I'd really appreciate any tips or input, it's been a while since participating in this community (had an accord and different user name a while back) but you guys are still the best! After driving this car there is no going back.
-I think replacing the thermostat is a good idea. The current thermostat is likely stuck open.
-Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. It's likely low, probably not due to a leak but to worn pads.
-You should be able to pretty easily remove the broken bolts. Drill holes in the bolts and remove with a reverse threaded easy out.
-Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. It's likely low, probably not due to a leak but to worn pads.
-You should be able to pretty easily remove the broken bolts. Drill holes in the bolts and remove with a reverse threaded easy out.
Yeah have an appointment tomorrow to get the thermostat replaced. After watching on Youtube how easy it is it pains me to have it done by someone else, but no tools on hand having just moved.
New brake pads going on too, need to knock this stuff out while the weather is decent!
As for the exhaust manifold ... the variations in price are baffling! Very few sites give much information to go off of either. Is there a well known go-to for this? d16y7.
New brake pads going on too, need to knock this stuff out while the weather is decent!
As for the exhaust manifold ... the variations in price are baffling! Very few sites give much information to go off of either. Is there a well known go-to for this? d16y7.
Thermostat replacement solved the heating and gauge issues! Of course Autozone was as useless as always and gave the wrong part even with exactly the right car and engine information. Got a quote for $120 to tap out the bolts which doesn't seem too bad considering it will take 1hr45m.
Is an O2 sensor replacement standard with replacing an exhaust manifold? Still browsing for the best deal on that.
Is an O2 sensor replacement standard with replacing an exhaust manifold? Still browsing for the best deal on that.
I just busted one of my valvecover bolts a few days ago... they are in the head yes, but due to the flange on them, if they snap off they are usually not bottomed out. This means that they can come out fairly easily (usually).
Here is how I took mine out:
The culprit:

covering the valves with a plastic bag so that no metal shavings get in:


Me using a 3/32 drill bit to start a small hole in the shaft of the broken bolt:

I then used a 3/32 hex head bit to use as my method of removal:

Finallly I gently tapped the hex head bit into the bolt and backed it out:

The end result:

and then I lived happily ever after.
If this is too late and you paid for its removal, then never-mind. Otherwise, best of luck, and nice sol!
Here is how I took mine out:
The culprit:

covering the valves with a plastic bag so that no metal shavings get in:


Me using a 3/32 drill bit to start a small hole in the shaft of the broken bolt:

I then used a 3/32 hex head bit to use as my method of removal:

Finallly I gently tapped the hex head bit into the bolt and backed it out:

The end result:

and then I lived happily ever after.
If this is too late and you paid for its removal, then never-mind. Otherwise, best of luck, and nice sol!
Wow thanks for the writeup! You make it look too easy, maybe I am being a wimp since if I mess up the problem gets way bigger. One thing is for sure when this is all over they will NOT be overtightened.
Two broken bolts (one shorty one long) and I ordered two of each from the dealership, maybe a bit of paranoia there. Considering it's probably been 200k+ miles since the gasket has been replaced it might be time for that too.
Two broken bolts (one shorty one long) and I ordered two of each from the dealership, maybe a bit of paranoia there. Considering it's probably been 200k+ miles since the gasket has been replaced it might be time for that too.
haha, I know the feeling about not wanting to mess up...
Also, I might be wrong, but it looks like both the bolts that are broken are the shorty bolts. I could be wrong though.
One way that i ensure that I dont over-tighten the bolts is to use a hand driver (much like a screwdriver handle with a 1/4 drive fitting on the end) instead of the ratchet. This way you can get it nice and tight (seemingly) without actually over tightening it. Hope this helps!
Also, I might be wrong, but it looks like both the bolts that are broken are the shorty bolts. I could be wrong though.
One way that i ensure that I dont over-tighten the bolts is to use a hand driver (much like a screwdriver handle with a 1/4 drive fitting on the end) instead of the ratchet. This way you can get it nice and tight (seemingly) without actually over tightening it. Hope this helps!
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A shop offered to tap them both out for $120 which is a heck of a lot cheaper than what happens if I mess up. I -think- it's one shorty one long according to a while back when I looked it up. +1 for Gorilla tape because I've been driving around like this for six months.
I was thinking about having this done at the same time as the exhaust manifold so they give me a deal on labor as a bundle, since $120 is steep though fair for this area. My biggest dilemna is finding an appropriate exhaust manifold. Saw this one but I don't know one from the other never dealt with this stuff before.
On a less terrifying note my entire interior is ripped out as I'm installing new rear speakers. The old rears are going up front so popping the door panels off will be a fun round 2. Plus a new antenna going in and the old one has a stripped nut that I'm about to bruteforce off.
Yet I still love the car ... hah.
I was thinking about having this done at the same time as the exhaust manifold so they give me a deal on labor as a bundle, since $120 is steep though fair for this area. My biggest dilemna is finding an appropriate exhaust manifold. Saw this one but I don't know one from the other never dealt with this stuff before.
On a less terrifying note my entire interior is ripped out as I'm installing new rear speakers. The old rears are going up front so popping the door panels off will be a fun round 2. Plus a new antenna going in and the old one has a stripped nut that I'm about to bruteforce off.
Yet I still love the car ... hah.
if your brake lights are on all the time check to see if the rubber/plastic stop button on the top of the brake pedal arm is still there pushing against the brake light switch. it's like reverse logic. pressing on the switch keeps the lights off. if the button isn't there anymore ( broke fell out) the lights stay on.
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