so, i have an 88 crx si. i had gotten the entire setup from a non abs DA at the junk yard, refurbished all the parts, then when i put it together, i noticed that there was just waaaay to much negative tow.


that was fine, i bought a blox toe kit but it was too short to do any meaningful adjustment, so i bought a cylinder of aluminum, drilled it out, tapped it and used the end links from the blox kit to give me some positive toe so my car doesnt understeer like crazy.


today i noticed i have zero travel in my suspension and i think the DA trailing arm is the culprit.



now, after researching, i have seen tons of people using DA trailing arms on an 89 CRX with zero issues. did the dimensions of the trailing arms change between 88 and 89? is there any way i can make this work? or am i going to have to refurbish my old trailing arms and try to get the disc brakes to fit onto that? any input is appreciated.

 

any juan?

 

your supposed to use the ef compensator arms not the da ones...!!!

 

by compensator arms you mean the toe adjustment arms??

 

^#4 in the diagram.

 

i tried putting the crx one in and it didnt work. the crx compensator arm is shorter than the DA one and i need one longer than the DA one. i need duck toe, not pigeon toe.

 

also, i dont see how that piece would affect suspension travel other than tweaking the entire trailing arm so the strut would be useless but the struts installed no problem.

 

The CRX Compensator is what is needed. Now if your trailing arm is bent, which is possible you will need alternative compensation methods.

 

the car i took it off of was pretty clean and both sides have no travel in the suspension. ill swap out the compensating arm and take more pics to show you guys what the deal is. my rear wheels have pigeon toe when they are maxed out.

 

No travel as in up and down?

 

yea

 

How are you testing this? From the pictures it looks as if your chassis is off the ground. With my sedan, koni yellows push back at 75% full that I can jump on the trunk, push down a couple times and the chassis maybe moved an inch, if lucky. In the air, I need to use jacks to manipulate the suspension.

If I'm completely in left field, I blame Slash.

And beer.

Happy Old Year.

 

http://fourthgenhatch.net/reardiscswap.html all you use is the trailing arm nothing else. It also looks like the car is too low giving the suspension no travel. You need some travel for the car to operate properly.

 

I used DA trailing arms on my CIVIC and had no issues what so ever.


Was also told to use the things that are on my car. Use everything on my car. dont use any DA things except for the arm. Was also told that it was going to be really really hard to do and get the Cable lines around the gas tank.


This job was super easy. Had Zero problems. Actually i had 1 a caliper siezed up. costed me like 200- went and got a new Nissin caliper, All new ceramic pads, and power slot slotted rotors. Also picked up a monster mastercylinder from a RHD civic. Works great. My car is not lowered so i have no issues. Hope it all works out.

 

i forget if i got a DA control arm from skunk2 or a crx one. would that make a difference?