Just wondering what your guys opinions are on camber kits for a 94 accord. I have the ebay camber kit and it sucks. It comes lose every time i hit a bump.

Looking for something that wont suck.

 

Front or rear?

You really do not need one unless you want it for looks. Just have your toe 0'd when you get an alignment.

 

An EF Civic UCA fits on the CD Accord. Skunk2 makes a nice one for the EF Civic.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SKUNK...Q5fAccessories

 

I need one for the front. The read camber kit is good. I'm just trying to get a even tire wear.

 

Your sure its the same?

 

.

 

so this would fit too right?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA...ht_4217wt_1264

 

yeah but some people have tried it and dont like it.

 

what don't they like?

 

Forget the adjustable camber kits and use the stock upper control arms or an equivalent replacement and have the toe set to dead center of the factory tolerance range. You won't have enough uneven tire wear to matter if the toe alignment is done correctly. If some lazy grease monkey is just setting it "within spec," then it won't be good enough and you'll shred the inside shoulders, but this applies both with and without significant negative camber.

I question whether that SH3 upper control arm has enough adjustment range to match the SV4 control arm. I'm curious to see the alignment print-outs from that one...

 

I don't get it, if its that easy to just have the toe at 0 then why does everyone say you need a camber kit?

I remember seeing my toe being around .04
Would having it set to .00 be that much of a difference?

 

It changes when you lower the car. Thats why I said get an alignment.



They didnt like the no name brand EF UCA because its typical ebay quality.

 

Ive gotten 3 alignments in the past 6 months. Every time the camber kit comes loose

 

Ok, so either:

1) You have a shitty camber kit
2) You didn't torque it correctly
3) You didn't use and loctite (or similar) thread goop


Ditch the camber kit if you have issues with it and just have the toe 0'd out. Use the washer trick in the rear if you have to. I had an Ingalls anchor joint kit and had 0 issues for the front for over a year.

 

lol come on balwin why you posting that up if he wants regular tire wear. if your going to get a decent kit ingalls or wicked tuning

 

Lol I suggested that too... :salook:

 

Because they're clueless.

You don't need camber adjusters to have even tire wear. You do, however, need a toe alignment that has been done correctly. Keyword: correctly.

I've driven around in my lowered cars for years without camber adjusters and have never had wear uneven enough to affect the service life of the tires (i.e. not more than 2/32" tread difference between the inside shoulder and the outside shoulder). I operated a Hunter optical alignment rack and specialized in performance, competition, and street alignments for several years, and currently do my own alignments with trig, toe plates, and a string box on a flat concrete pad. Unlike most alignment monkeys, I actually know what I'm doing.

Guessing won't get you close enough. If you really want help, you'll need to post your before and after print-outs from the alignment machine including all specs and tolerance range figures. If you don't have print-outs, then that's your first mistake - you should never have an alignment done without asking for both print-outs beforehand.

 

What is the best way to extract the gold plate on the camber kit im having issues

 

Anyone ever find the best way to extract the gold plate? Does it have to be taken off?

 

maybe your not worried about hp... on the dyno camber matters trust me I just had a low number tune thanks to camber, toe, and a bent wheel... according to my dyno tuner zero camber is more power to the street...

 

The amount of horsepower loss to the ground would be very small unless you are talking extremes. Plus the tire and all the rest matters just as much. Finally, what matters is the intention behind the alignment. A zero camber would produce the most tire wear, but would trade off for horsepower loss in the turns. So, for someone to say that is missing a piece of the whole picture. Often you want at least a touch of camber less skittishness. I would be very surprised to see a true horsepower loss or gain with small normal camber dialed-in. If in doubt, I'd listen to Targa250R as he certainly sounds like he has the most experience. I've had cases in some cars where I needed a camber kit, but in others I've not needed it.

 

so this would also work for a 1999 cl the skunk2 ef civic UCA I know I’m way late to this conversation