Anyone out there having issues with the rear sub frame or rear crossmember in another term. Its the one the rear motor mount is connected to. Im bending one every race and im tired of it. Has any one made a custom one or made improvment to an OEM memeber?
Here is a picture of one that bent already its been sitting outside for a bit. If you look right in the middle you can see kinda were it is collapsing in from the top. When it does this the motor rocks back towards the firewall and brings the shift bar towars the front of the car causing the shifter to fall to the ground. Does this make sence. Also i have made a motor mount for the tranny to keep it rocking back but it helped but didnt solve the issue.

 

what part of it are you bending? pictures would help.

 

this. and im guessing you're doing track racing right? if you are try to stay off the zebra strips a little bit more, maybe.

 

No just 1/4 mile at a time.

 

I was making 800+ on my crx and never did that. are they all rusted to ****? are you modding them at all?

 

i've cracked one before but never had it twist and buckle on me... that's really weird haha

 

yea im making the same not sure why it keeps happening. Im running 26" slicks and launch at around 8000. If tried bracing them with strong bar but it just bend were the bar stops.And no there not rusted. The only reason the one in the picture was was becasue it was junk and was sitting out side.The only thing i can think is how i launch. Dont preload just 2 step and drop the clutch.

 

Billet subframe time? :D

 

Do you have a front engine mount?

 

Yea this it it right here.

 

weird your makin alot of power, but ive never seen this before...affraid im of no use to you though.

 

what kind of mounts are you using? whats the hardness?

 

I started out with Hasport Billet Mounts with the Hardest Rubbers they offered i figured i would try soild mounts so i got soild and still same thing. The motor is solid will not move one bit but for some reason i keep having this same issue.

 

It is collapsing at the motor mount location right? not anywhere else?

 

Yea right where yhr 2 round black plugs are is where it is bending. Its Colapsing in or down how ever you look at it.

 

i was warned of this issue with my crx also man my builder has one as well, and he ha these issues

he said take the cage through the floor bord weld to that peice then a bar all the way across it attactched to the front legs of the cage and it would solve this issue.

 

Thats not a bad idea. Did you ever do it or was it just a conversation. How would you use the bar going Horisonal between the two fron legs of the roll cage. Not sure how to connet to the cross memebr of fab it to the mount.

 

nope never had this issue yet, but when i do ill take it to them to get it done lol

i think he used a beam welded across the member then welded that to the cage although i am not 100% sure

 

Is there anyone that makes these after market subframes stronger cause it would be a big improvement to weight transfer for the front.

 

I would just add the front TQ mounts to take a little more stress off of the rear subframe. Or go solid mounts and brace the side mounts on the chassis

 

I have done both and still having issues. Now that I have moved to Hydo trans I lost the front mount that was made up so looking in another way of installing a front mount

 

i ripped my mount off with a chunk of the sub still attached... as of now i put a 91 integra subframe.. bolts right up and so far no problems... good luck pm me if anything.. 500 plus hp nothing to crazy but like i said no probs so far.. give it a try

 

did you say you braced one? have pictures of that addition?

 

scroll down to post #13 and there's a pic of a custom rear subframe. you could probably track down the person who made it by contacting the poster of that pic. https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...light=subframe

 

best bet would be to use a torque mount on both sides of the motor attaching to the front. should offer a good bit of rigidity. not a problem i have EVER heard of, but another option would just be a fully custom tubular subframe, but with that i would recommend also reinforcing your body where it mounts to so you don't start ripping sheetmetal out of the car. do this by using cross bars behind the firewall attached to the existing cage. will add a good bit of weight though