well a friend of mine brought this to me. It just happened randomly when he was driving. The motor cranks over fine, fires right up and as soon as you let off the "start" position and the key moves back to "run" position the car dies instantly. Now i am a gm tech but i am new to these. I immediately assumed ign switch. When turning key from off to run 12v is present on ign 1. If you then go from run to start and let it go back to run, voltage is no longer present on ign 1. If you turn the key back to off, then back to run 12v is present again. 12v is always present in the run position as long as its not being tested after key was in start postion. The main relay bench tested ok and all the wires out from there tested good. If anyone can help me out that would be greatly appreciated.

 

yr and model will help us first. im trying to figure this out but maybe we can get diagrams going when we have this info .

when you say no voltage present on ign 1 meaning that all dashlights are off at that point?

 

it is a 91 accord. yes the key returns like it should. the key does everything it should just when it goes back to the run position after cranking/starting it dies

 

so dash lights come on you turn key over run (12V reading your getting), fires at start, when key comes back to run it dies and all dash lights turn off or do they stay on?

I cant remember how it goes on the 91 you have 0=off 1=parking lights and other accesorys 2(run)-runs a/c blower and dash lights come on system checks etc. 3(start*fire*)=turning starter over. Is this how yours is setup. Tryin my best here man haha.

 

has the vehicle come up with any codes?, such as 15 (igniter)? My 94 EX has/had the same problem and CEL 15 came up. The symptoms were VERY similar to yours. I won't say it's exactly the same as your as I became a bit confused on your definition of "ign1." However, it just cranks and cranks after the engine dies, and won't fire up again until you turn the key back to "off," and start it again.

You said the main relay is fine, so scratch that off the list. ignition switch is okay as well? if possible, try to get another person's distributor and swap and test. I am not sure if 91s have the igniters inside the distributor, as they vary between VTEC and non-VTEC models.

Hope this helps, please update.

 

yeah this is what is happening and i think you have it right with that description. I believe the dash lamps are off after it comes back to run postition.



not sure on how to check codes on this thing. Is it the light on the ecu or whatever? Ign 1 comes from the wiring diagram which is also labeled on the back of the ignition switch if you take the covers off the steering column.

all i know is i have an ignition switch that i am going to try replacing tomorrow cause he has to be back on the road as soon as christmas is over...

 

There's more likelihood it is the ignition switch.

From your previous post, there was no indication of a check engine light, so may not be the igniter. Normally a check engine light would be on, then to check for the trouble code, there is a 2-P Service Check Connector located under the passenger side dash. You would jump the connector and the check engine light would flash a number of times in short and/or long flashes to indicate the numeric codes. A code 15 would be indicative of possible the igniter. You don't have a check engine light, so you may not need to go there.

It is normal for the check engine light to come on for 1-2 seconds when you start the car and go out if no problem detected. It's kind of a self-check of the ECU.

 

thats what i was thinking, worth a shot for 30 bucks. The cel also comes on for a couple seconds when you start or first key up as a bulb check.

 

ignition switch fixed the problem!

 

Glad it worked out.

Just fyi:
It is not a bulb check. The check is an ECU check. When the car is started, the ECU performs a self-check and illuminates the Check Engine Light (CEL) during this self-diagnostic. If the ECU fails the self-diagnostic, the CEL stays on. If the ECU passes, the CEL goes out after a few seconds. If the ECU fails to initialize the diagnostic, or if the bulb is burnt out, the CEL never comes on when the car is started.