I want to install a SPORT air suspension. I would like adjust ride height with the touch of a button, and I can create a small system (PIC processor based) to adjust ride height based on speed.

The reason for posting is that I am having trouble locating a company/product for me. The only company that I recall reading any article on only makes suspensions for Subaru STI's and BMW M's. The rest of the literature I have found is for towing trucks, or well, just plain silliness (If you want to bounce things go buy a bouncy ball, they are designed for it). I am not interested in slamming my car, making it bounce, or looking like a mexi-cali lowrider articulated to drive on 3 wheels. I want a sport suspension, that can adjust to slightly cushy if possible.

Can any body help me or point me in the right direction?

btw, it's going on my modifed (heavily) MR V6 del sol, I am using two front shock assemblies. I will be driving the car to the track, on the track, and back home. So you can see the variation in application.

 

I think i remeber seeing something about ksport. Now, I am not 100% on this, but it is worth a couple minutes to check out.

 

Adjust ride height based on speed?

Toe changes with ride height. Adjust height on a whim, expect unpredictable handling, rapid and uneven tire wear, and various other issues, all due to suddenly throwing the car out of alignment.

How do you intend to correct the toe with the ride height variable?

 

Simple, buy a Land Rover.

 

This x eleventy gajillion.

Vehicles with such variable ride height apparatuses (with ride height changing based on speed) are designed for such things. Honda suspensions are not. You can align the car based on the ride height you intend to use most of the time (track use maybe?) but your tires WILL wear unevenly when set to any other ride height. I highly advise against trying to rig up a system that changes ride height based on speed. The alignment will NEVER be correct, ever. And as Tuner said handling could get unpredictable and downright dangerous.

 

Maybe I haven't given you enough information, The change in height will not be 4", the drop will be 1.5" or less (probably less). With my previous suspensions (coil-over and springs) I haven't seen much of a change in toe if anything from my alignment shop. I have had mild changes in Camber but nothing to worry about. The dual control arm is an excellent design and does keep the appropriate geometry better than other designs (compared to McPherson like I have on my Acura). The only problem I have ever had with this car was with camber wear, this was when I bought my first set of springs a decade ago, when I was younger, and well, less educated.

Why is toe such a concern for you?

The suspension front and rear are the same now, I have welded together the front of a civic into the rear of the sol. I no longer have the trailing arms on the rear.

As for small changes in camber, if I do find it to be a problem I can design a cam with a stepper motor on the UCA's with preset offsets for height changes. To do this will be more mechanically involved than the computer work. But heh, I like building things. For the cpu I can use a little PIC processor, God knows I have hundreds left over from school collecting dust.

As for wheels (if it matters to you guys), leisure drives will be with my Mugen RNR's (15") with 205's and for track days I will have my Enkei RFP1's (15") with 225's. The sol itself is a Mugen Replica car, some parts real, some fake. The wheels, pedals, gear selector, and some other parts are real, the body parts (front cover, skirts and rear wing) are all replica. They are just too hard to find and expensive to justify (for used parts).

 

heh, look at my Camber Kit thread in this forum.

What you thought was camber wear years ago was most likely TOE wear, 99.44% sure on that. When you lower a Honda *even a small amount*, the front tires toe out. And even a small amount of toe out can destroy tires quickly, especially when there is negative camber also involved.

So yes, if you set the alignment and then change the ride height even just 1.5 inches, the tires WILL wear abnormally.

 

Patrick, I read your post on the camber issue. Not the whole thread. I can conclude that the toe out is caused because the steering arm length being independent, and when the car is lower the steering arm is swung along a different radius shortening it comparison to the control arms and as a result pulling the wheels open slightly.

I can agree with this. I just never really thought it was an issue. Have you, or anyone made a chart on toe out vs. ride height change? Since I have more room upfront with no motor couldn't I just measure the radii out on the two control arms against the swing of the steering rack to correct this issue? Honestly, I thought the pivot angle was pretty damn close to the bushings, if not right on. I would've designed it like that. Damn you Honda!