Hello everyone been awhile since i've posted. So i put a 3" catback and header on the DX and its auto but i'm looking into some stall convertor upgrades. Here's some photo's of the progress of the new parts i got on the DX.










Had to reweld the location of the Front 02 Sensor didn't fit would hit the motor mount.

 

I just picked up a 95 Accord... Your exhaust system looks good... 3" might have been over kill but stick with it for now...

Dont even ur time looking for a high stall converter. Your not making enough power where its gonna make a difference... And in the end its a step backwards in the bang for buck dept.

You never listed your whole setup... But your best move is to keep adding bolt on for the added power then get hondata and go get it tuned.

Look into an intake manifold, throttle body, pulleys etc

your pick up some good power after you get it tuned. If you still want more power... Do nitrous(50shot) till your trans blows... lol

Then get rid of the auto for a 5 Speed... If you still want more power... Before you go 5 speed... Just sell everything and use the money on a h22 swap. Please dont waste ur money on a high stall for a 140hp Honda Accord... LOL

 

140hp thats it lol. No i was just looking because i found some and one's 225$ or so and the other's 650$ and i know that one is over kill. the 225$ is only 600rpm over stock which is not bad. What intake and throttle body are upgrades and can i bolt on and port them out to increase air flow? Prelude?
Yeah i'm just using this car to stuttle my daughter around lol i have a Buick Grand National to play with just wanna do bolt on's and Maybe NOS if i keep it for sure.

 

Those Accords dyno with like 125whp... They are rated for 140 from the factory.

But im telling you regardless of which you choose its not gonna make a difference... launching 600rpm over stock isnt do anything for getting quicker times...

Just go with like a skunk2 intake manifold and throttlebody, if you dont wanna swap. Porting isnt worth the effort unless you run a race type setup. get a tune.

And yes, a h22 would prolly be your best bet with the least amount of hassle. It doesnt take much to swap one of those in... And your car will perform way better than anything else mention...

H22 swaps can be had for less than $2000. Sometimes as low as $1200 depending on where you get it from and the condition of the motor... If you sold your current parts... That would greatly help mitigate your expenses...

200hp(175whp) compared to 140hp(120whp)

Its kinda of a no brainer... I think your daughter would like the h22 better... lol

 

Yeah she would lol but i don't know i might be trading for a 89 5.0 so i don't know as of yet. I was looking into a F23A1 intake and a Blox 70mm TB but dont know yet i know i will do that torque convertor and maybe squeeze a 50-75 shot might get 14's lol. I will be doing the intake and TB for sure if i dont get that 5.0 and the stall will be a most helps on fuel ecomony with lower pressure's.

 

I gotta side with solo except dont spend a penny if your lookin into an h swap. Either build the f or swap, your better off saving your money. Looks like non-vtec & believe it or not, those f22's have some boost potential over the n/a h build. You might be better off boostin the f it's about the same money as an h swap w/ light bolt ons. This is of course, assuming a 5 spd swap Nice exhaust btw, who makes it?

 

I believe their shop is call DNA Motorsports.

 

Nice monster truck!

 

Don't worry i'm putting a Tein basic suspension on it in the month's to come.

 

NOOOOOOOOOOOO! Do NOT get Tein Basics you will hate it.

Get Function & Form Coilovers. They are the best coils for the price for our Accords.

 

I've used Tein before on my DSM so i think i know what their quality is. And i don't think i would use a no name i haven't heard before.

 

LOL @ high stall converter! You have a plain jane DX with crank windows. And 3 inch exhaust WILL NOT FIT under the undercarriage. It will be hitting the sheet metal causing rattles and melting/burning the sound proofing inside the car. You shoulda bought an EX.

 

No its 3" after the cat and i dont get any sounds or rattles at idle or driving? Hmmmm fit's just fine and i plan to lower it about 1''-1.5'' so it still will not hit on anything. EX whats so better about an ex or a dx?

 

teins may have been cool for your dsm, but for accords they are pretty much a no-no...just get function and forms and call it a day

why would a a 3 inch exhaust not fit under a EX but not an DX/LX...in fact if anything the DX/LX has more room due to the lack of a rear sway bar but literally everything else is exactly the same exhaust clearance wise and even the whole exhaust is the same except for the manifold and the muffler

but overall, i see no reason for you to have more than a 2.5 inch exhaust

 

Well thanks for clearing that up for us all. But Tein has always been a good company to buy suspension parts from so i will try them out and if i dont like them let Tein know about the ride quality.

 

NEWS FLASH! That motor pictured is rated at 130 Hp. Not 140 Hp.

 

actually its quite the opposite...i hear they ride like a dream but the spring rate on them is waaaayyyyy to soft to have any fun with and the springs on are too long to even lower you car as much as you would want to....if your heart set on some teins i have a friend selling a set of SS's and another friend selling a set of basics

 

hmmm shoot me a pm with some prices shipped to me at 88203.

 

Well i just order'd a H23A intake manifold for a good fair price. I'm debaiting on what Throttlebody to go with a 68mm ported or just put a 70mm and port it? Also wanted to know if anyone has done the F22b2 H23A intake swap and what the time runs around to do the swap?

 

Why didn't you go with an F23A Intake Manifold? Much cleaner looking as well and won't look all messy under the hood like the H23A IM when you're all done.

Here is my old setup before I went H-Series. You see it is clean as it gets with an F23A IM. It looks like it belongs there.



Sorta looks messy compared to my F23A IM setup. Not mine BTW. H23A1 IM on F22B1:


H23A IM on F22B1 DIY: http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum...ntake+Manifold

 

Well i got the H23a intake for cheap to tell you the truth. But i couldn't find a F23A1 intake for as cheap as i got the H23a for. I've come to a decision to go turbocharged for the F22B2. I'm just gunna go with a MLS head gasket and ARP head studs. I'm working with Delta cams to get a cam and i have a T04E 60-1 Stage III .63A/r turbo also some FIC 750cc's i'm gunna go with a Converision harness for a ObdI ECU with Hondata for tuning. My question is should i just go with a 70mm TB and port it out or go with a ported 68mm TB?

 

I see. I got mine for only $40.00 plus shipping. I say go with a 70mm TB with a portmatched bore for maximum and optimum flow.

 

Cool i'll get the 70mm then. Should see a good 250WHP on 10psi on 91 octane with a good decent tune. First is paint then some little stuff but i already ordered the manifold and TB so next is just the turbocharger and then the hondata and tune. Thanks for your input man i really dont know honda's all that well just cars in general but all the same no?

 

did you check out the F22B1 Boost thread yet? Its one of the best accord threads on ythe site.

 

Correct, the non-VTEC F22B2 responds pretty well to an aftermarket cam though. Definitely gives it more pep, I've been considering it for my Value Package (DX with some EX parts)