Hi all,

I really hope to get some help here with this problem. I have a 2005 CRV that was running fine one day, filled it up with gas and hit the road. Next day the car would not start. The starter turns the engine, it just acts like it isn't getting fuel or spark. I checked for fuel at the fuel rail and didn't think I had enough psi so I replaced the fuel sending/filter unit. Checked fuel at the rail again and it really squirted out of there, so I am thinking psi is good, and I hear the pump run when I turn the key to the on position. I have checked for spark at the plug with a spark checker tool from Harbor Freight and it seems to be working, it flashes. I checked the resistance of the injectors and I got 9.5 ohms on all four. I checked for the ground signal at the injectors with an automotive logic probe and I do get the negitive pulse so I believe the CKP is ok. What othe steps could I do to help solve this problem? Any help and all help is welcome.

 

Was is something I said????

 

Do a compression/leakdown test just to make sure nothing internally is damaged, check over the grounds they can also cause a no-start

 

It's you imovolizer/key, did you drop your key? Do you have a secondary key? If you do, try the second key.
It is a known problem that does happend, second generation and third generation crvs come equipped with a imovolizer the works by matching the key to the egnition switch, if the key, or the key reader in the ignition switch malfunction, you will not be able to start the vehicle, most of the time it is the key that malfunctions do to the fact the key is what takes more beatings than the ignition switch.
Regardless of what the pro lem turns out to be, let us know so the we have an answer for the next guy that runs into a similar problem..
Good luck! It's your key!!

 

I know this is a super old thread, but I'm new and I can't start a new one.

I have a 2005 Honda CRV. I drove it fine, parked for 3 hours, and then it wouldn't start. It has a strong crank, but will not start.

There is no check engine light, and my reader showed no codes.

I changed the fuel pump, because I couldn't hear it. Now I can hear it fine when I turn the key.

I changed the crankshaft position sensor (my mechanic friend thought it was worth a shot)-- nothing changed.

I get spark, checked with a test light.

I get power to the injectors, but no ground. My test light shows power when connected to the negative battery terminal, but no ground when it is connected to the positive terminal.

The engine will start with starter fluid, but it dies in a few seconds.

Any ideas?

 

Did you reset the ecu?
If you are handy with a volt meter, here's something to check.
1st. With key in #2 position- pull ecu fuse (there are 2) in engine bay, 2 fuses, in different boxes, they are labeled.
Turn key off, leave fuses out while you set up ohm meter, like this......

Notice how I have a needle in the solid blue wire? This is the signal wire from crank sensor to ECU. (black meter wire to battery, red clipped to needle.)

Now replace your fuses, turn key to #2 You should have 5v on the meter.

Turn steering hard to the right, get your 19mm socket and some extensions, and turn the crank clockwise SLOWLY.....and watch meter. Voltage should break, like this

If it doesn't, leave key in #2 spot,
Remove crank sensor harness and sensor
Plug sensor back in ( leave it hanging ) and touch a piece of metal to the end of the sensor (use a socket or something)
You should hear some relay clicks from engine bay
Replace sensor back in timing cover.
Turn crank SLOWLY again while watching meter
Voltage should break now
Start the car, no gas or anything else, let it idle for a while to "relearn"

Good luck

 

hey.. hopefully you fixed the car. I know this is from 2017.

 

hey i know you send this message years ago. I am expericieng the sam from this post, i changed the crank sensor and the car worked for a week with no issues. Now is back to the same, not starting and a loud sound on the engine when i try to start it.. do you think, besides the sensor, the harness of the cable should be replaced? or maybe the ECU reset is enough...