Ok i posted something like this a little while back. this is a little more specific. I just finished my mil-spec harness, and now my car wont start. I did not use any special wire for the distributor wires, the ones that were shielded i left inside the car, and i just extended the wires on the outside of the car(engine bay side). as soon as i turn the key on i get a solid check engine light, and the care will not start. if you have any information as to why, and what to do to fix the problem please let me know. anyone else have the same issues???? if it is as simple as using shielded wire for the distributor i will do that i just dont want to tear the harness apart more than once. pleas any help would be appreciated. Thanks again in advance!!!!!

 

Does the car crank or are you getting nothing? If it's cranking are you getting spark or fuel?

 

Vehicle? Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the car on?

 

car cranks, fuel pump primes, but no fuel and no spark. i checked every wire end to end with a continuity tester. this is frustrating.

 

Damn man that sucks! where do you get the mil spec connectors?

 

Are you running on a stock ecu, what vehicle is this in?

 

My brother in-law works with them every day got it at a crazy price. its in an eg im running the neptne demon. heres a pic of the motor. fully built 12.5:1 b18c5 sk2p1 cams and nitrous.

 

What a beauty! You did and awsome job on the wire tuck! do you have any full size photos lol I hope you figure out the problem it took me a week after my wire tuck to figure out that I didnt have somthing grounded lol.

 

heres some more pictures

 

heres the first tuck i did

 

Damn! Props man, you got some tallent. I love that color did you paint it? what color?

 

No I didn't paint it my buddy has a business did it to promote his shop. And ty. Hopefully it will be running this spring. The paint code R78P I think

 

Yeah I hope so man it sucks when you hit a stoping point like this been there done that. he have a shop on the west coast?

 

The grounds won't ground properly on painted surfaces. Check that, especially the ground on the thermostat housing. Also check fuses 31 and 24.

 

I grounded most of the wires under frame rail so ther was plenty bare spots.any one know exactly what to check for grounds??

 

Morning bump

 

Check continuity (resistance/Ohms) to body ground at ECU connector terminals A26 and B2.

http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring...schematics.gif

Also check fuses 31 and 24.

 

thanks ronj i just checked all the ground, the green and white wire that has all the sensor grounds is not grounded. at least at the ecu??? that is weird. should the green and white wire going to the ecu be grounded out??? if so this may be my problem. thanks again. by the way does any one have a full schematic of the engine harness this would greatly help me in all of this mess.

 

The Grn/Wht wire that pins to ECU D22? That is a gound wire for multiple sensors and it ultimately grounds to the thermostat housing.

Did you check whether A26 (Blk/Red wire) and B2 (Brn/Blk wire) in the ECU connectors (wire harness side) have continuity to body ground? These wires run to the G101 ground on the thermostat housing.

 

yes ron the two u mentioned are grounded, however the green and white are not. i am not really certain as to why they are not grounded. so i am going to ground that wire in with the rest and see what happens. thanks again ronj. u r very busy on here and no doubt a very helpful person thanks again.

 

The Grn/Wht wire grounds at ECU terminal D22 (via the thermostat housing as I mentioned). With the key in ON(II), you should measure continuity to body ground at the Grn/Wht wire in the ECT, O2, IAT, or TPS sensor connector.

 

So the ign needs to be on in order for me to get a ground through the green and white wire??

 

I know that the ECU grounds the Grn/Wht wire the key in ON(II). I believe that it won't with the key off.

 

WWWOOOOHHHHOOOOOO cars running. not exactly sure what the problem was i cut the shrink wrap off the main mil-spec connector and the car fired right up. the only thing i can think of is that one of my solder joints was poking through the shrink wrap, and i didnt notice it. took connector home, electrical taped every connection, and reheat shrinking everything. i will post some pics soon. let me know what u guys think. I am seriously thinking of making these things. its really not that big of a deal when you do one or two lol!!!!! i can do them pretty affordable. If you would like a mil-spec connector i can get them for u too. thanks for all the help everyone. H-T scores again. Now for the important stuff, give me ur best guess Horsepower wise on the buil and i post up numbers when i get it tuned.
specs.
fully built 12.5:1 B18c5 block
ported and polished gsr head brian crower valvetrain, springs and ret. sk2p1 cams
Bdl fuel rail, 650cc injectors
adjustable cam gears
buddy club pro-spec 2 exhaust with testpipe, RMF repleca header
4"custom intake
150 fogger shot.
Tuned with Neptune Demon

My guess is 215 all motor!!!

 

if you don’t mind me asking where do you get your connectors from? Thank you in advance.