Idling Issue
I am having an idling issue. Read some posts on here and tried 'em and still having problems. Here is what is happening:
When I start up the car. the car sound like a Subaru WRX. Then, after a 5 seconds, the idle goes up and gets stuck at 3000 rpm and the check engine light comes on. When I gas the car or rev, the Idle goes down and the car just dies out. Then, I turn the key off and then back on and the code goes away and can't get it to come back on to find out what the code is.
When I start up the car. the car sound like a Subaru WRX. Then, after a 5 seconds, the idle goes up and gets stuck at 3000 rpm and the check engine light comes on. When I gas the car or rev, the Idle goes down and the car just dies out. Then, I turn the key off and then back on and the code goes away and can't get it to come back on to find out what the code is.
What year, trim, and engine do you have?
Your CEL codes should remain stored in the ECU regardless of whether you remove the key or not. (It is possible that your malfunction is not tripping the CEL.)
Several possibilities but this is a good place to start.
Inspect/Tighten FITV.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/%2A%2A%2A-how-%2A%2A%2A-clean-your-fitv-aka-fast-idle-thermo-valve-1564019/
Inspect/Clean IACV.
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f94/...r-iacv-144463/
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ained-967.html
Then Correctly Set Idle.
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=195
Your CEL codes should remain stored in the ECU regardless of whether you remove the key or not. (It is possible that your malfunction is not tripping the CEL.)
Several possibilities but this is a good place to start.
Inspect/Tighten FITV.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/%2A%2A%2A-how-%2A%2A%2A-clean-your-fitv-aka-fast-idle-thermo-valve-1564019/
Inspect/Clean IACV.
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f94/...r-iacv-144463/
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ained-967.html
Then Correctly Set Idle.
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=195
bad gas, bad fuel pressure, not running on all cyclinders ignition tune up. Vacume line malfunction. clogged cat, fouled plugs, ecu issues, voltage issues etc etc etc...Check for odds
Hey B18B1-CRX, when you say fouoled plugs, do you mean the fuel injector plugs? Also, my TB doesn't have a FITV. I have a 90 CRX with a VTEC head on a D15Z1 block. Stock intake manifold and TB.
Naw I meant Spark plugs,
Think simply
[FUEL]-Is it getting to the motor? Is it getting passed the fuel filter? Is it old? Are your Fuel Injectors okay? FRP-Fuel Pressure Regulator Check these.
[Spark]-Basic/ Spark Plugs, Spark plug wires. Engine Ground, Distributor, firing order[check coil, cap rotor, and dizzy internals,check the harness for broken wires or bad connections like oil covered wires]
[air]-clean filter, Check, O2 sensor, Map Sensor, Air intake Temp Sensor, Throttle posistion sensor etc.
Make sure your timing hasn't jumped, Theres many Threads on how to do so.
Check your Distributer settings...How Advanced or retard is it twisted. Get a friend with the same Dizzy as you and try theres.
Unless you have a high compression thumper and have the subura sound, your most likely not running on all cyclinders.
I know its a lot but you can check threw these in less than a hour.
Try jumping your ecu to get the code...That code[s] with lead you in the direction.
Then have you a cold
Think simply
[FUEL]-Is it getting to the motor? Is it getting passed the fuel filter? Is it old? Are your Fuel Injectors okay? FRP-Fuel Pressure Regulator Check these.
[Spark]-Basic/ Spark Plugs, Spark plug wires. Engine Ground, Distributor, firing order[check coil, cap rotor, and dizzy internals,check the harness for broken wires or bad connections like oil covered wires]
[air]-clean filter, Check, O2 sensor, Map Sensor, Air intake Temp Sensor, Throttle posistion sensor etc.
Make sure your timing hasn't jumped, Theres many Threads on how to do so.
Check your Distributer settings...How Advanced or retard is it twisted. Get a friend with the same Dizzy as you and try theres.
Unless you have a high compression thumper and have the subura sound, your most likely not running on all cyclinders.
I know its a lot but you can check threw these in less than a hour.
Try jumping your ecu to get the code...That code[s] with lead you in the direction.
Then have you a cold
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I was able to fix most of the issue. One of the spark plug wires were bad. I got the car to idle smoother, but, the idle jus bouces up and down from 500 t0 1500 rpm's. The after about 20 seconds, the idle drops to about 400 rpm and the car sometimes dies out. Replaced all vacuum hoses and sensors. Still can figure out what the cause of this is.
Ran the car yesterday and now I have some idling issues. The RPM needle jumps from 1000 to 2000 repeatedly. I replaced the IACV with a know working one and that didn't fix it. Also, bled the coolant and replaced the O2 sensor. I did notice some white smoke from the exhaust. Checked compression and it's good all across the board.
TPS calibration. idling at 0.3v above....WOT at 4.7v. otherwise check engine will illuminate. Worth checking to make it in order...
Your problem similiar to my experience. Wrongly connect the vacuum hose in between MAP sensor and purge tank. As if no vacuum reads for the MAP signal. And another thing is Fuel regulator problem...diapram leaked. Good Luck bro.
Your problem similiar to my experience. Wrongly connect the vacuum hose in between MAP sensor and purge tank. As if no vacuum reads for the MAP signal. And another thing is Fuel regulator problem...diapram leaked. Good Luck bro.
Ive had an idle issue too, my 90 civic dx is supposed to idle a 800 rpms but some times itll idle at 1200. just does it sometimea and doesnt really effect the car just annoing.Anyone help me?
you sure your fuel pressure regulator is working right? In what you said you went from running rich (black smoke) to running lean (white smoke) when you changed a few things. Sounds like a fuel problem to me.
I still got the idle issues. Fluctuates from 500 to 2500 and got some white smoke. Checked compression and it's good all across the board. Replaced IACV, FITV, and MAP sensor. Still no fix.
I found out mines the idle control valve. When its cold the bolt is lose but when the car warms up heat expans so make the bolt tighter. I treaded a new bolt and idles fine now.
I checked and replaced the IACV bolts, but still the surging idle. One thing i did notice is that there is no pressure in the top hose to the radiator. Could this be the casue of the surging idle?
I have had the "hunting idle" problem with both civics I have owned. Both times were vacuum leaks. Once it was my throttle body gasket, once was the intake manifold gasket. Both are relatively easy to replace, you just have to make absolutly sure all surfaces are clean when assembling though, use razor scrapers and scotch brite pads and get both surfaces down to clean aluminum. A vacuum leak will cause the iacv to not close properly and most people will blame that for the problem when its not at all.
A vacuum leak will also cause the car to run rich or lean because the o2 sensor is sending different readings to the ecu (from the increased air) that it doesnt recognize because the throttle plate isnt open, which the ecu usually monitors through the tps sensor to calculate the right ammount of fuel to inject.
Just my .02, but I would definetly replace the intake manifold and throttle body gaskets.
good luck!
A vacuum leak will also cause the car to run rich or lean because the o2 sensor is sending different readings to the ecu (from the increased air) that it doesnt recognize because the throttle plate isnt open, which the ecu usually monitors through the tps sensor to calculate the right ammount of fuel to inject.
Just my .02, but I would definetly replace the intake manifold and throttle body gaskets.
good luck!
It has be something with the MAP sensor.
My vacuum lines had leaks in them and it did the exact same thing even sounding like a subi.
It thew up code 3 and 5 which both have something to do with the MAP if your running obd0.
I replace the hose and it stop doing it.
My vacuum lines had leaks in them and it did the exact same thing even sounding like a subi.
It thew up code 3 and 5 which both have something to do with the MAP if your running obd0.
I replace the hose and it stop doing it.
I replaced the TB gasket and IM gasket. Also replaced the MAP sensors. Still getting the surging idle. Yes, I did clean both surfaces with a scraper blade to make sure there sat evenly.


