headgakets for highboost
i have been using the orginal honda one gor my 2.0 lsvtec i blew it twice due to stretch headstuds so now i am gonna get new headstuds
now the real question what the differnts in headgaskets
felpro (autozone) and orginal honda i mean my friends have used autozone no problems on other low boost cars
now the real question what the differnts in headgaskets
felpro (autozone) and orginal honda i mean my friends have used autozone no problems on other low boost cars
This topic has been beaten to death. Here's the deal:
If your block and head deck are flat to within .001" and your headstuds (ARP or Golden Eagle) are not stretched then it will have no problem dealing with boost, even very high boost (350+kpa). Past 400kpa there are different theories but I have seen personally that even high boost applications like that will stay together with flat block/flat head. A step-deck block .002-.005" couldn't hurt but I haven't seen the need for that even, because the factory MLS gasket has .010" of crush around the cylinders already.
All of the failures I've seen are due to:
-stretched fasteners due to overtorque
-less than flat block or head deck
-too rough of a finish (don't let a local POS machine shop surface your head on a belt sander, cause we don't use paper headgaskets) I'm always surprised because customers still show up with heads like that.
-Dowel pins too tall after a head has been decked
-stud not seated all the way in the block or a burr on the thread
If your block and head deck are flat to within .001" and your headstuds (ARP or Golden Eagle) are not stretched then it will have no problem dealing with boost, even very high boost (350+kpa). Past 400kpa there are different theories but I have seen personally that even high boost applications like that will stay together with flat block/flat head. A step-deck block .002-.005" couldn't hurt but I haven't seen the need for that even, because the factory MLS gasket has .010" of crush around the cylinders already.
All of the failures I've seen are due to:
-stretched fasteners due to overtorque
-less than flat block or head deck
-too rough of a finish (don't let a local POS machine shop surface your head on a belt sander, cause we don't use paper headgaskets) I'm always surprised because customers still show up with heads like that.
-Dowel pins too tall after a head has been decked
-stud not seated all the way in the block or a burr on the thread
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OEM Honda or GE (which are OEM Honda bored to your piston size)
1000 horsepower engines on those all day long
and no need for 1/2" head studs, you are wasting your time and money imo -- the standard off the shelf ARP or GE head studs will work just fine, again, 1000 horsepower engines on those all day long too
1000 horsepower engines on those all day long
and no need for 1/2" head studs, you are wasting your time and money imo -- the standard off the shelf ARP or GE head studs will work just fine, again, 1000 horsepower engines on those all day long too
EDIT.. Good talk. THX
Ill be in touch Friday. Going Cometic this time with some New ARPs
Last edited by extralargenog; Dec 13, 2010 at 11:22 AM.
This topic has been beaten to death. Here's the deal:
If your block and head deck are flat to within .001" and your headstuds (ARP or Golden Eagle) are not stretched then it will have no problem dealing with boost, even very high boost (350+kpa). Past 400kpa there are different theories but I have seen personally that even high boost applications like that will stay together with flat block/flat head. A step-deck block .002-.005" couldn't hurt but I haven't seen the need for that even, because the factory MLS gasket has .010" of crush around the cylinders already.
All of the failures I've seen are due to:
-stretched fasteners due to overtorque
-less than flat block or head deck
-too rough of a finish (don't let a local POS machine shop surface your head on a belt sander, cause we don't use paper headgaskets) I'm always surprised because customers still show up with heads like that.
-Dowel pins too tall after a head has been decked
-stud not seated all the way in the block or a burr on the thread
If your block and head deck are flat to within .001" and your headstuds (ARP or Golden Eagle) are not stretched then it will have no problem dealing with boost, even very high boost (350+kpa). Past 400kpa there are different theories but I have seen personally that even high boost applications like that will stay together with flat block/flat head. A step-deck block .002-.005" couldn't hurt but I haven't seen the need for that even, because the factory MLS gasket has .010" of crush around the cylinders already.
All of the failures I've seen are due to:
-stretched fasteners due to overtorque
-less than flat block or head deck
-too rough of a finish (don't let a local POS machine shop surface your head on a belt sander, cause we don't use paper headgaskets) I'm always surprised because customers still show up with heads like that.
-Dowel pins too tall after a head has been decked
-stud not seated all the way in the block or a burr on the thread
OEM Honda or GE (which are OEM Honda bored to your piston size)
1000 horsepower engines on those all day long
and no need for 1/2" head studs, you are wasting your time and money imo -- the standard off the shelf ARP or GE head studs will work just fine, again, 1000 horsepower engines on those all day long too
1000 horsepower engines on those all day long
and no need for 1/2" head studs, you are wasting your time and money imo -- the standard off the shelf ARP or GE head studs will work just fine, again, 1000 horsepower engines on those all day long too
They seemed to work fine, but we decided to use that batch in NA cars
My very recent GE HG was a bored out OEM definately.
I have to take the head off, want to freshen up the studs as they are old and been used 100000000 times LOL. The last GE one I got the bores had actually compromised the seal ring on a cylinder or 2. Just a HAIR, but enough to where my motor is pushing coolant for no reason so it has to be either of the two as its a fresh build, step checked and head surfaced at a very reputable machine shop.
I want to try something else. At 87 and 87.5 I ran OEM with NO problems. I believe the cometics are actually punched out to 89, not bored, which is one reason Im going to try one. I really dont buy that OVERSIZE Cometic vs GE-OEM theres a notable difference other than that. Im not using any wierd thickness, just a standard thickness 89mm bore.
I have nothing BAD to say about GE, the sleeves are awesome (im running them), and it could have been a fluke with the HG :O) . Im actually leaning more to the studs being old and the head lifting a tad at 30+ PSI. This motor has never really pushed coolant before.
I have to take the head off, want to freshen up the studs as they are old and been used 100000000 times LOL. The last GE one I got the bores had actually compromised the seal ring on a cylinder or 2. Just a HAIR, but enough to where my motor is pushing coolant for no reason so it has to be either of the two as its a fresh build, step checked and head surfaced at a very reputable machine shop.
I want to try something else. At 87 and 87.5 I ran OEM with NO problems. I believe the cometics are actually punched out to 89, not bored, which is one reason Im going to try one. I really dont buy that OVERSIZE Cometic vs GE-OEM theres a notable difference other than that. Im not using any wierd thickness, just a standard thickness 89mm bore.
I have nothing BAD to say about GE, the sleeves are awesome (im running them), and it could have been a fluke with the HG :O) . Im actually leaning more to the studs being old and the head lifting a tad at 30+ PSI. This motor has never really pushed coolant before.
I have run both OEM and Cometic gaskets, and had good luck with both so far... Im running a Cometic on this new setup, which were gonna push a bit more just to see what we can get out of it... So we'll see



